• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

2012 TE511 Fuel leaking into gearbox?

Pete Rocha said:
Yeah, I do see that happening...:) So when you did yours, did you just pull the line from the vacuum intake and leave the can, or did you remove the can alltogether? If so, what did you do with the vent hose going into it? Just route it somewhere else, so that if gas comes out it just runs on the ground..I mean I wouldn't expect that to happen very often.
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I routed it to the ground, took a couple routings before I found the best line but it basically runs down between swingarm and frame ... I had some excess hose to trim.... I took the can off but can bolt it back for looks :)
 
Rearwheelin said:
I routed it to the ground, took a couple routings before I found the best line but it basically runs down between swingarm and frame ... I had some excess hose to trim.... I took the can off but can bolt it back for looks :)
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Thanks...i'll be doing that after I get it back from the dealer.
 
Rearwheelin said:
I would take the cat out, if you need I can do this for you for small donation:)
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Of course I have to note that I'm wondering if the removal of the cat can be done in a way that it could be put back in. Since I live here in california, at any given time they could pass some bs liberal law that makes us bike riders have to start smogging our bikes..:( From the pictures Motosportz posted, it almost looked like the welds on the pipe part that connects the cat housing could be ground off and maybe allow it to be pulled out leaving the ability to re-insert the cat with it's housing and re-weld it in place. Well that or if I can find a source to get another stock muffler, just do one and have the other available to put on in case the libbies get their way, but I don't have a ton of money to spend on one at the moment either.
 
Pete Rocha said:
Of course I have to note that I'm wondering if the removal of the cat can be done in a way that it could be put back in. Since I live here in california, at any given time they could pass some bs liberal law that makes us bike riders have to start smogging our bikes..:( From the pictures Motosportz posted, it almost looked like the welds on the pipe part that connects the cat housing could be ground off and maybe allow it to be pulled out leaving the ability to re-insert the cat with it's housing and re-weld it in place. Well that or if I can find a source to get another stock muffler, just do one and have the other available to put on in case the libbies get their way, but I don't have a ton of money to spend on one at the moment either.
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when the day comes I I have to smog it I will put the can back on and run oxygenated fuel and throw enough packing in the muffler to cause enough back pressur to throw the EFI into lean mode.... I live hear too ! Our state sure knows how to mess up a perfectly good running machine !
 
Rearwheelin said:
when the day comes I I have to smog it I will put the can back on and run oxygenated fuel and throw enough packing in the muffler to cause enough back pressur to throw the EFI into lean mode.... I live hear too ! Our state sure knows how to mess up a perfectly good running machine !
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Yes...especially when probably 10 uncorked bikes probably put out less than one stupid SUV that people only use to drive on the road..ha
 
I am a nu-be here but have a lot of automotive carb training and experience. I had the same problem with the oil and went back to the dealer. they drained some oil and cleaned things up but did not say anything about a fuel smell. I did not have 30 miles on it. When I got back home It had more oil in the air box. I started researching because the dealer told me you checked the oil on the side stand and I just did not believe that. The manual is not clear and does mention the side stand but also talks about checking the oil with the engine warm and the bike up straight. After more research I found some guys talking about overfilling of oil. The solution was to ride the bike to warm up the oil and with the bike on a center stand and both tires equal distance from the ground (bike level) remove the fill plug and let the oil run out. I can not believe how much the oil expanded after warm up.

Now for the fuel. I was smelling raw fuel every time I parked my bike. It still has the canister on it. During the second air box clean up I saw a kinked vent hose. On the right side of the bike the vent hose comes from the tank right by the fuel cap. The hose was too long and the way the factory ran it allowed it to kink between the tank and the check valve. I shortened the hose and rerouted it so it would not kink. I now have 171 miles on it and no more fuel smell, high oil level or oil in the air box.
 
HuskyKT said:
I am a nu-be here but have a lot of automotive carb training and experience. I had the same problem with the oil and went back to the dealer. they drained some oil and cleaned things up but did not say anything about a fuel smell. I did not have 30 miles on it. When I got back home It had more oil in the air box. I started researching because the dealer told me you checked the oil on the side stand and I just did not believe that. The manual is not clear and does mention the side stand but also talks about checking the oil with the engine warm and the bike up straight. After more research I found some guys talking about overfilling of oil. The solution was to ride the bike to warm up the oil and with the bike on a center stand and both tires equal distance from the ground (bike level) remove the fill plug and let the oil run out. I can not believe how much the oil expanded after warm up.

Now for the fuel. I was smelling raw fuel every time I parked my bike. It still has the canister on it. During the second air box clean up I saw a kinked vent hose. On the right side of the bike the vent hose comes from the tank right by the fuel cap. The hose was too long and the way the factory ran it allowed it to kink between the tank and the check valve. I shortened the hose and rerouted it so it would not kink. I now have 171 miles on it and no more fuel smell, high oil level or oil in the air box.
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Thanks, i'll definitely take a look at mine, but why do you think a kinked vent line would be a problem? Because it wouldn't allow the pressure to vent from the tank and cause the fuel to go through the injector when not running? I mean if it's kinked then wouldn't it effectively block the fuel from going into the charcoal canister anyway, or am I missing something? I'm only going off the parts manual to see how the hoses connect..i.e. one goes from the reserve tank to fuel tank left side, then the right side of tank goes to the top of the canister. Other than that, I definitely had the overfilled oil problem, and I only check it vertical, tires level from a "stand" (Made it out of a floor jack). and yes, when the engine is hot. But as I have noted, I check it the same way, and it really fills with fuel fast.

Anyway thanks for pointing that out. When I go to remove the canister, I'll have a look see on the vent line anyway.
 
HuskyKT said:
I am a nu-be here but have a lot of automotive carb training and experience. I had the same problem with the oil and went back to the dealer. they drained some oil and cleaned things up but did not say anything about a fuel smell. I did not have 30 miles on it. When I got back home It had more oil in the air box. I started researching because the dealer told me you checked the oil on the side stand and I just did not believe that. The manual is not clear and does mention the side stand but also talks about checking the oil with the engine warm and the bike up straight. After more research I found some guys talking about overfilling of oil. The solution was to ride the bike to warm up the oil and with the bike on a center stand and both tires equal distance from the ground (bike level) remove the fill plug and let the oil run out. I can not believe how much the oil expanded after warm up.

Now for the fuel. I was smelling raw fuel every time I parked my bike. It still has the canister on it. During the second air box clean up I saw a kinked vent hose. On the right side of the bike the vent hose comes from the tank right by the fuel cap. The hose was too long and the way the factory ran it allowed it to kink between the tank and the check valve. I shortened the hose and rerouted it so it would not kink. I now have 171 miles on it and no more fuel smell, high oil level or oil in the air box.
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BTW, did you have any low speed stalling issues on your bike? I know, like a lot of other people on this forum, mine had it bad. The one biggest thing that caused it was the air bypass screw on mine was set to 5.5 to 6 turns out from the factory (or the dealer..don't know which). Resetting it back to 2.5 pretty much fixed it for me..and that was still with the cannister on it. Of course now I have the JD tuner in it, and just the spark arrestor out (race map II jumper in), and wow what a difference. Just waiting for my FMF muffler to get in, then I can fully open it up and get rid of the smog crap.
 
HuskyKT said:
I am a nu-be here but have a lot of automotive carb training and experience. I had the same problem with the oil and went back to the dealer. they drained some oil and cleaned things up but did not say anything about a fuel smell. I did not have 30 miles on it. When I got back home It had more oil in the air box. I started researching because the dealer told me you checked the oil on the side stand and I just did not believe that. The manual is not clear and does mention the side stand but also talks about checking the oil with the engine warm and the bike up straight. After more research I found some guys talking about overfilling of oil. The solution was to ride the bike to warm up the oil and with the bike on a center stand and both tires equal distance from the ground (bike level) remove the fill plug and let the oil run out. I can not believe how much the oil expanded after warm up.

Now for the fuel. I was smelling raw fuel every time I parked my bike. It still has the canister on it. During the second air box clean up I saw a kinked vent hose. On the right side of the bike the vent hose comes from the tank right by the fuel cap. The hose was too long and the way the factory ran it allowed it to kink between the tank and the check valve. I shortened the hose and rerouted it so it would not kink. I now have 171 miles on it and no more fuel smell, high oil level or oil in the air box.
Click to expand...
Good call on the vent hose. I just removed the charcoal canister on mine last night, and I had the exact same problem. I probably cut a good 2-3 inches off of the tube to get it so that it wasn't kinked. That was sure an incredibly stupid oversight on Husqvarnas part as I know when I removed the vent line I couldn't blow through it. Now it's probably the way it should be. Thanks for pointing that one out.
 
Pete Rocha said:
Good call on the vent hose. I just removed the charcoal canister on mine last night, and I had the exact same problem. I probably cut a good 2-3 inches off of the tube to get it so that it wasn't kinked. That was sure an incredibly stupid oversight on Husqvarnas part as I know when I removed the vent line I couldn't blow through it. Now it's probably the way it should be. Thanks for pointing that one out.
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:excuseme: So the tank wasn't venting correctly, effectively pressurizing the tank, and taking the path of least resistance through the fuel injector and ultimately to the crankcase via the throttle body ?
 
waserman said:
:excuseme: So the tank wasn't venting correctly, effectively pressurizing the tank, and taking the path of least resistance through the fuel injector and ultimately to the crankcase via the throttle body ?
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That's what i'm not sure of. I would assume if the bike was carbureted then I would probably say yes, as the float may have some issue holding the pressure back, but on a FI bike I'm not so sure. Although HuskyKT noted that after the correction of his vent hose, his symptoms disappeared, but at the same time I believe from what I have read is that the fuel system when fully charged runs about 40psi or something. The fuel injector should be designed to handle that type of pressure when it is completely shut off..i.e. 0 volts going to it. Now obviously the charged side of the fuel circuit and the input side of the circuit from the gas tank have to be separated. With that in mind, I don't really see how a choked off vent line could create enough pressure in the tank to really effect things, but then again, I'm not a fuel injection expert, and definitely not an expert on the FI systems on the Huskys. I'm just trying to speak from a logic standpoint, not from a standpoint of knowing all of the technical aspects of this particular FI setup.
 
The "jury" is still out, but everything looks promising. I put on approx 60 more miles since the injector swap, and decided to change oil. I didn't notice any significant gas in oil (other than maybe the little bit that was in there from the last oil change to the injector change). Oil still looked good...wasn't all thin due to large amounts of fuel, and was still amber looking, not black like before. Will check after a couple more tanks of gas, but so far so good...keeping fingers crossed.
 
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