[2012 TE310R]Part # for Oil Return fill plug?

[Deadend]

New to me TE310 - was changing the oil for the 3rd time and i guess i hamfisted the oil return filler plug assembly and caused it to seize up on itself, resulting in me having to tear the feed nozzle off of it in order to remove it.

All of the manuals and workshop diagrams ive found online do not mention the oil recovery bit and just show a plastic fill plug. I noticed a member here has an aftermarket solution (zipty i believe was the company) which I actually think is what i destroyed - I was curious to see what the OEM solution was before I made a decision (and purchase 3x of them, since im prone to error)

Thanks in advance!

 

[Johnrg]

Deadend... The stock arrangement had the vent hose from the top of the frame (used as a catch tank) routed below the frame on the left side and back to the rear sump plug and oil pickup filter. It connected to a nipple/bolt, so oil from the catch tank would then drain back to the sump. The hose connected with a hose clamp and prior to '13 these bikes only had that rear plug as a drain, so draining the oil was a mess. The process was a pia and many had issues stripping the bolt and so the Zip Ty kit was developed. By cutting the drain back hose and routing to the filler cap it simplified that aspect while offering more protection to the underside of the bike so it would negate ripping the hose off and losing all oil.

The kit works well but is finicky and some care and a careful process is needed to reinstall and not overtighten, plus requires one to keep a stock of copper crush washers to replace on each oil change. I would suggest getting another kit from Zip Ty if they still are available. The plastic cap shown in the stock manual is replaced as is the nipple/bolt on the rear sump of the 310.

Here is one link to some comments: http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/oil-drainback-kit-install-te-310r.82080/#post-573475

The most thorough comments have been removed from this site as were under the purview of a past ZT employee who had spent a lot of time with us.

I have tested it thoroughly and still use it and found the problems and solved them. It must be lightly locktited (the base fastener alone) to the case and then the banjo (using better copper crush washers) carefully torqued by feel just to crush the washers. The hose connection has little space and I use zip ties and make sure when fastening the banjo to not pinch the hose under the edges of the bolt head. Using the copper washers stopped leaks I had as new since the kit came with stainless washers that had manufacturing burrs.

Let me know if you need more guidance.

** Just found the kit still on Zip Ty's website** Glad to see they are using my great photos!
https://ziptyracing.com/products/husqvarna-310-drain-back-kit-2nd-generation

 

[Deadend]

beautiful write up - i sincerely appreciate it and hot dog you're in SB? The pic in my profile is from the end of pavement on the way to Divide. Just moved from SB to NC about a year ago - glad you guys are getting some rain!

 

[wags]

I made one for my 13 te310r
From a Aluminum oil fill plug (E-Bay) and a elbow from my local
auto parts store.

 

[River-Runner]

Wags -

How do you add oil?

RR

 

[wags]

Slide the return hose off unscrew and remove the fill plug add oil.
Total cost about 15 bucks.

 

[Deadend]

a month later and ive ordered 2x of the ZipTy raciong 2nd gen widget. I think ive got a small head gasket leak as if i go for about a 3hr ride, my radiator is down about 1 - 2oz of fluid and the overflow bleeder leaks a bit. upon several oil changes - the oil itself doesnt seem to be affected (much). will probably start that happy fun in may and just let her bleed for a little bit

 

[AndrewS]

a month later and ive ordered 2x of the ZipTy raciong 2nd gen widget. I think ive got a small head gasket leak as if i go for about a 3hr ride, my radiator is down about 1 - 2oz of fluid and the overflow bleeder leaks a bit. upon several oil changes - the oil itself doesnt seem to be affected (much). will probably start that happy fun in may and just let her bleed for a little bit

Got the same thing on my 310r. Coolant drops, after a few hours. No sign of it in the oil, so I guess it's blowing out the exhaust.

I bought an FE350s, so haven't gotten around to looking into the 310r, yet. I plan to do it soon.

 

[Johnrg]

Are you sure you are losing coolant? I thought I was early on so would top it off... Not to the filler neck but higher than it wants to be in service. I realized that it takes 10 secs or so for the fluid to migrate to the right radiator and it only just covers the rad. Any more and it blows it off.

 

[AndrewS]

I can't speak for Deadend, but in my case, yes. It'll drop below the fins.

Frustrating, as I would've sold it by now, had there not been an issue.

An unscrupulous person would just sell it, as it runs great, but I would never stick someone with an undisclosed problem.

 

[Trenchcoat85]

I can't speak for Deadend, but in my case, yes. It'll drop below the fins.

Frustrating, as I would've sold it by now, had there not been an issue.

An unscrupulous person would just sell it, as it runs great, but I would never stick someone with an undisclosed problem.

I don't want to de-rail the "oil return" thread Andrew, however...

it sounds like a head gasket. They can leak lightly coolant into the combustion chamber without getting it in the oil. But let's look at the super-easy stuff first:

• good cap? inspect. your fe350 cap should fit too.
• coolant out the overflow? put a folded paper towel under the end of the overflow hose. if you get lotsa coolant, you got a bad cap or you're overheating.
• overheating? hmmm, bad thermostat? bad flow (how's the impeller- easy check)? Lean (air leak or...)? exhaust?
• check the torque on the head by trying to tighten each one under the valve cover, but don't over-torque. Caveat: I don't know if they're nuts or bolts or those hermaphrodite-thingys... I've never had my head off and i'm too lazy to look it up. <grin>

good luck.

 

[AndrewS]

Yeah, I thought it was overheating, and the thermostat seemed to open very little when it was hot.

I switched to silicon hoses without the thermostat, and put my fan on a manual switch. The problem persisted.

Thanks for the other suggestions, they're appreciated! I'll give them a shot when I have some space to maneuver in my garage.

 

[Deadend]

Its def a headgasket leak and a bad cylinder - its blowing out rather than in so im into a new jug bc of that. (Edit: found a tiny hairline fracture after i thoroughly cleaned her - from it spouts coolant pure but if the overflow frame oil vapor is in play it looks all fucky. My main girl for the last 8yrs was a ktm690 lc4 - these problems are minor comparitively speaking lol)

Isolating the return after i fubar'd it proved it out for me.

No biggie - i bought the lil beast for the street plate - thats all that matters LOL shit will always hit a fan somewhere, anywhere

 

[Deadend]

I made one for my 13 te310r
From a Aluminum oil fill plug (E-Bay) and a elbow from my local
auto parts store.

Im going to try this too - my hamfistedness will ruin things bc im an impatient turkey

 

[Deadend]

I don't want to de-rail the "oil return" thread Andrew, however...

it sounds like a head gasket. They can leak lightly coolant into the combustion chamber without getting it in the oil. But let's look at the super-easy stuff first:

• good cap? inspect. your fe350 cap should fit too.
• coolant out the overflow? put a folded paper towel under the end of the overflow hose. if you get lotsa coolant, you got a bad cap or you're overheating.
• overheating? hmmm, bad thermostat? bad flow (how's the impeller- easy check)? Lean (air leak or...)? exhaust?
• check the torque on the head by trying to tighten each one under the valve cover, but don't over-torque. Caveat: I don't know if they're nuts or bolts or those hermaphrodite-thingys... I've never had my head off and i'm too lazy to look it up. <grin>

good luck.

This is excellent advice. I hit 2 of those checks but not all - someone with finesse should work these tips into a maintenance thread.... (*shifty eyes)

 

[Deadend]

I can't speak for Deadend, but in my case, yes. It'll drop below the fins.

Frustrating, as I would've sold it by now, had there not been an issue.

An unscrupulous person would just sell it, as it runs great, but I would never stick someone with an undisclosed problem.

I bought it. I figured it was the return. Price was right and shes got a gubbetmint plate. Worthit. Handles amazing

 

[Deadend]

The two came in yesterday - very happy with the manufacture quality. kudos ZipTy, nice product, will goto you guys first for future TE310 needs