2012 TE310 Hard to shift gears when hot

[Rizzkid]

only 20 miles on the new TE310. hard to shift in 2 3 4 5 when the bike is hot after running for a while. (1st and nuetral is ok, but 1 to 2nd is really hard to get) When it is first started up and cold all is well. Clutch lever has to correct free play as needed. Any ideas what to adjust or do? Chain may be a little tight as it is hard to get a 35 mm socket in shim area as specified in book, but it is close.



Also very jittery throttle with low RPMs. Bike is in fill power up mode. (high flow air filter cage, no o2 sensor, canister removed etc) 40 tooth rear sprocket, dealer claims to have mapping optimized.

 

[glangston]

The bikes are tight. About 4-500 miles it's better.

Idle and/or TPS might need adjustment. It might be best for it to have a bit higher idle.

I rode mine stock till 460 miles then did power up. Still, with the 40 rear sprocket it needs a bit more gas and slower clutch let out to get smoothly off the line.

It gets better as you get some miles on it. Mine shifts fine but not as good as my 08 with 2000 miles.

 

[husky72082]

only 20 miles on the new TE310. hard to shift in 2 3 4 5 when the bike is hot after running for a while. (1st and nuetral is ok, but 1 to 2nd is really hard to get) When it is first started up and cold all is well. Clutch lever has to correct free play as needed. Any ideas what to adjust or do? Chain may be a little tight as it is hard to get a 35 mm socket in shim area as specified in book, but it is close..

If you are having a hard time inserting a socket unloaded, then it is probably really tight when you sit on it? right? It should not feel too taught when you sit on it. That can cause the low end jitter you are talking about. I upgraded my TE310 to the 12 port and then the TXC 2012 ECU and it is like a new bike on the low end. Yes, miles will help a lot, but having the ability to compare ECU to ECU, I can tell you it is like night and day better on the low end with the TXC ECU. Even my original dealer tried to talk me out the ECU, I'm glad I didn't listen, it really is that much better.

 

[Rizzkid]

The35 mm outer diameter socket needs to be used under the chain when the bike is on a stand in the air or just using the kickstand? The manual is not very detailed

 

[OlderHuskyRider]

The35 mm outer diameter socket needs to be used under the chain when the bike is on a stand in the air or just using the kickstand? The manual is not very detailed

Put it on a stand, no weight on the bike. I cut a semi-circle out of my slider right where the manual says to check tension, so that a 33mm piece of PVC would fit in, then I tighten the chain down so there is zero slack. Ignore the gearing notes, that was all a massive waste of time, as is alot of the experiments I do.

 

[glangston]

12/43?

What did you end up with?

 

[R_Little]

My 2010 TE250 is hard to shift too..it has about 1k miles on it.

Yes they like loose chains......do NOT run them tight or you will toast a wheel or countershaft bearing.

 

[turboslacker]

Yep me too with my 2009 TXC250. Hoping a good tip gets posted. I did change the oil type but no difference in shift firmness.

 

[Rizzkid]

Well I adjusted my chain using a 35 mm outer diameter socket while the bike was on a lift stand. The bike shifts better now. Thanks for your help. I do notice that the chain "slaps" around a bit on the plastic chain guides. I can hear it a bit when accelerating and decelerating quickly.

The drawing /sticker on my swing arm has a reference of 30mm. It this supposed to be the chain total deflection when the 35 mm bushing is in position? There is no reference to this in the manual. If I used 30mm total deflection as per the diagram the chain was too loose. I am now closer to 20-25 mm deflection on the top part of the chain while still usin ghte 35mm socket. I still feel the chain is a bit too loose but now it shifts fine, just hear the chain slapping around a bit. I am only 155 lbs so when I sit on the bike the chain does not get very tight. Here is the sticker on the bike I was talking about:

The "a" on my sticker says 30mm. The arrow is where I put the 35mm outer diamter socket. Do you think the 30mm is the bushing size needed or the chain deflection? The manual says 35mm bushing

 

[Rizzkid]

Here are some before and after pics of the chain adjustment. The before pic is how the chain was adjusted from the factory. Too tight, right? In both pics the bike is on the kickstand with no rider.
The after pic is how the bike is now. Shifts fine now but hear chain slap.

Do you guys think it is ok or too loose?

 

[JasonfromMN]

A little chain slap is quite normal. Just so it isn't so loose it starts to marr your frame to death.

 

[husky72082]

Looks like you could go a bit tighter from the photo. Try to find some phat arse to sit on it

 

[Rizzkid]

I found a good solution. I emailed Husky office in Austrailaia and got a nice detailed answer. The 40 tooth sprocket needs a 30mm bushing as a spacer, the 50 tooth uses a 35mm socket. The manual did not explain this at all.
After using the 30mm socket, the chain now has slack, not too much and shifts fine.