• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

2012 TE310 fuel elbow/plastic quick disconnect problems

P

Phil Lamb

Husqvarna
A Class
Boys, I need help. Consistent with my policy that if it ain't broke, fiddle with it until it is:
I replaced the plastic fuel elbow with the metal one from ZipTy. Figured out the need to depress the opposing white tabs to release the quick disconnect. Boogered it some, so have a new fuel line, "pipe", coming from Bill's. The issue is reinstalling. I wound up taking off the end at the fuel injector also. I am having fits getting these back on. I think I have the boogered end clipped on the tank end, have not messed up the other end as much, but cannot get the two flanges to slip over the ridge/ring on the fitting, With circular pliers I can depress both white tabs a bit, no go. Looks like due to the bevels on the flanges that they might just slip over the retaining ridge, but no go. By the time I get a new line I will truly need it.

Tell me how to quit feeling like an idiot. Thanks.
 
It's a real booger. I was able to do it by attaching the tank end first, laying the tank over the frame without attaching the front hold down bolt, and threading the other end down and around over to the brass fitting on the throttle body. From there you just gotta work it in place by wiggling the tank up and down and around and around until you get it lined up, then grab the end with your left hand, and reach up and around over the tank with your right hand and underneath to grab it with the right, depress the white buttons on the side, and pull it backwards over the flange with both hands. Not one of my favorite jobs at all.
 
Silly me, thinking that "quick disconnect" implied "quick connect". Midget hands would be helpful too. More seriously, I think that over-depression (new word) of the white tabs upon disconnect creates problems upon reconnect. The plastic connecting everything in there seems fragile, and has a tendency to take a set.
 
So if you have buggered up the white disconnect piece beyond all hope, by too much compression, kinking of the link between the flange and the depress buttons, etc., rip out the white piece with your needle nose pliers. Slip fitting on. Thread narrow zip tye thru the slots opened up by removal of the white piece, tighten. So far, it works. No fuel leakage. A farmerized solution that seems to work.
 
Best advice: Do not try to solve a problem until you need to. I read all the concerns re the "fragile" fuel elbow, and since I tend to have spare levers, for example, thought it a good idea to "preempt" the elbow issue. Not worth the candle. I personally think that removing/reinstalling the fuel line is more of an issue than the elbow. On the other hand, the ZipTy elbow is excellent.
 
I took an old pair of needlenose pliers and bent the tips toward each other about 30 degrees. They make pushing on the liitle fuel line tabs pretty easy. I prefer removing the line end at the fuel injector rather than at the elbow underr the tank - I think it's easier to re-install also.
 
street2dirt said:
Geez, you guys are scaring me, lol. Gonna be doing this myself soon & it sounds like "fun".
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After you do it the first time you will need to be prescribed anti-anxiety meds! Unlike most other tasks you perform on a bike.....this one never seems to get any easier and you will freak out just THINKING about removing the tank! It is truly a horrible design but one we must live with if we must live with Huskies!
 
another trick is to not focus on the tank end and just disconnect the throttle body side and pull the hose out with the tank. I do both at different time depending on my daily dexterity, sometimes the tank elbow is a cake walk sometimes its a fight, the throttle body is the same type disconnect with less stress on the hose as it sits. also Ive been using the same sort of tool idea stated above but with standad snap-on long handle long nosed pliers for assist.
 
So I did the modified needle nose plier approach described above, and then found Tekton brand 11 inch long reach hose ring pliers at a local tool store. Perfect for white tab depressing. But in the meantime I depressed too hard and crimped the white plastic band between the depress tab and the locking white flange that the depress tab moves back so fitting will slide over fixture flange. When that little band is buggered the hose won't fit on the fitting. But I think my zip tie replacement is working--the o ring seals, the zip tie only has to keep the hose from sliding off the fitting by being forward of the fitting flange.

Locally owned hardware and tool stores are my friend. I'd like something that can reach around and pinch both of these tabs, how about this?, perfect.
 
I got a dumb question. I bought the zip ty billet fitting how is the plastic one suppose to come out and what holds the billet one in?
 
Another question... Why not replace said fuel line hose with a rubber fuel line and zip ties. Do we really need the fancy fittings? I guess it may be pressure related/EFI but curious in any regard.
 
You've got 50psi coming out of the tank from the fuel pump. I'm comfortable with hose clamps and rubber hose when checking fuel pressure but under race conditions I want more. Some braided steel lines would be cool - but the factory stuff works well.
 
MikeB said:
You've got 50psi coming out of the tank from the fuel pump. I'm comfortable with hose clamps and rubber hose when checking fuel pressure but under race conditions I want more. Some braided steel lines would be cool - but the factory stuff works well.
Click to expand...

+1 on braided stainless lines with threaded fittings. If its good enough for top fuel dragsters its gotta be good enough for a dirt bike.
 
joedirt said:
I know someone here has the answer.
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There is a slotted metal plate that fits over the flange of the elbow and screws into the tank. It does not take much to keep it in place. There are a couple Viton o-rings that provide the seal.
 
Mike-AK said:
There is a slotted metal plate that fits over the flange of the elbow and screws into the tank. It does not take much to keep it in place. There are a couple Viton o-rings that provide the seal.
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Thanks...i guess a 2012 tc250 is different than a te or txc cause mine doesn't have the slotted plate. I ended up getting the broken piece of the fitting out and there is a metal ring with little fingers that keep it in. once it is pushed in its not coming out.
I bought a zip ty elbow but doesn't look like its gonna work. No way to keep it in. On the ZipTY website it says it works on the TC but I guess not. No racing this weekend.
 
Do you have a pic? I'm wondering if the ring you describe is reusable and can be slipped over the new elbow?
 
rb_0805.jpg

This is the sherco part which is the same as the husky. The zipty elbow doesn't have the groove for the metal piece.
 
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