• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

2012 TE310 Changing the Oil

AbnMike

AbnMike

Husqvarna
A Class
So I'm at about 300 miles now and due for an oil change. I've read numerous threads on oil filters, drain back devices, oil breather kits, reservoirs, etc, etc, but since I'm kind of dim I'd like a list of the things I should have - on hand - for an oil change.

I'm fully prepared that the drain bolt is going to be mangled based on what I've read. What's the recommendation to have on hand to replace that?

I'm prepared for the stainless oil filter so I'll order that.

I'm seeing magnetic oil fill plugs etc.

I'm not looking to completely change the bike over, just a basic oil change, but I would like to upgrade this go round, and then continue upgrading over time.

I like the drain back kit idea, but it seems that's on pre-order from ZipTy so it won't be available now.
 
The drain bolt gets messed up? I haven't read that yet and mine is still good. The little parts you're looking at will come from zip-Ty and possibly 7602 racing. The biggest thing is the drain bolt is a PITA to get to. Really not that big of a deal.
 
Just remove the oil line and then carefully undo the drain with a good quality closed end wrench. Get one with open and closed ends so you can get a better grip once the hose is off. Like a lot of the fasteners on the bike, it's on snug.
 
Listen to what the others are saying and Do not follow the manuals instruction and try to remove it the with the hose on using an open end wrench, I am pretty sure a guy named Gunther used an impact to install these. I ended up having to use vice grips to get mine out but luckily the replacement part was cheap and in stock. The only reason it needs to come out is there is a metal filter behind it and after the initial removal there should be no issue.
 
Still waiting to get my parts back from the anodizers. Should have them pretty soon. Make sure to remove the oil pre-filter behind the oem drain back on the bottom of your engine. When replacing your oil filter, snap it onto the lid first. M1 0W40 or some equivilant will keep your engine running happy, no 50W.
 
First of all I will say: You are really brave waiting 300 miles! I did my first oil change at 40 miles!!!

I have a 2014 TE310R and agree with everything said above. I followed the instructions for my first oil change (do not remove hose) and almost destroyed the drain plug. After that, I removed the hose and used a good closed end wrench to finish the job.

So, my advice is: remove the hose, use a closed end wrench to remove plug, clean screen and install:
1-ZipTy drain back kit.
2-Stainless steel oil filter (make sure it is the same length as stock).
3-Mobil 1 0W40 full synthetic oil.

Ride and be happy!!!
 
Ok got it. Thanks.

This is a high-falutin machine for me and I want to take the advice of people who have had the trial and error.
 
AbnMike said:
Ok got it. Thanks.

This is a high-falutin machine for me and I want to take the advice of people who have had the trial and error.
Click to expand...


ZipTy Racing is THE source for anything and everything regarding these Italian Husqvarna bikes.
They not only race these bikes (very hard), but also run a fleet of them as desert tour bikes.
They talk, I listen.
When it comes time for suspension or motor work they will get it!!!
 
Why is this is?:

M1 0W40 or some equivilant will keep your engine running happy, no 50W.

What is wrong wit da fiddy? How does it affect the engine negatively? Less lubrication? Run hotter?

Thanks in advance!
 
More flow (not pressure) equals higher cooling and better bearing separation. Next time you change your 310 oil, where your oil filter goes in, there is a tiny hole above the filter cavity. This hole feeds the crankshaft, rod bearing and your cylinder wall. The more flow you can get through that tiny hole, the longer you can enjoy your ride.

te310.jpg
 
I went with the Mobil1 0w 50 as recommended.

Good lord what a pain in the rear end to change that oil though. I hope those little doo-hickeys come in soon, removing the oil line just to remove that fitting, then getting it all back together sucks.

Also I can't remember how the filter goes back in. Rubber part towards the cover? I pulled it back apart and it's sitting waiting on an answer. Thanks
 
Yes... the open end fits on the nub in the cap like in the photo posted just above. Also Mobil1 0W-40 recommended.
 
Johnrg said:
Yes... the open end fits on the nub in the cap like in the photo posted just above. Also Mobil1 0W-40 recommended.
Click to expand...


Yeah, got that one. Fat fingers. Of course I had a small heart attack and had to run check that was what I bought.
 
The kit parts are in from the anodizers, they look good. Waiting on the compression washers.
 
Hello everyone, new owner of a 2012 TE310 here with about 650 miles on it. I bought from an older gentlemen who was an avid dirt bike rider and very anal about his oil use and changing the oil in the bike. He bought the bike with 170 miles and in the less than 500 miles he owned it had the valves checked and changed the oil 6 times. He gave me his left over jug of oil that he used for changes.
He used this:
99992220_cst_06240_pri_larg.jpg


He told me that the thinks this is the best oil to use in the Husky as it is the lightest weight. I see everyone mentioning 0w40 but that is considerably heavier than what this guy is using in the bike I bought.
I am completely new to this and do not know much.
Is it ok to keep using this oil or should I get it out of there and replace with 0w40?
The day after I bought the bike I took it out on the trails and ran it for 3 hours and there seemed to be no issues.
 
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