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Hi everyone,
As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.
When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.
Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.
Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.
Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.
Thanks for your patience and support!
2012 TE 310 trying to start in gear
- Thread starter Mike-AK
- Start date
Boogie
Husqvarna
Pro Class
What Johnrg said above. I just checked my '13 and that is on the Brembo unit.
My '09 has a Magura clutch and the switch is different and more obvious. One time, it fell out of the housing and I couldn't start my bike at all with the button.
Sorry, I was thinking of the Magura clutch on my previous comment. I haven't played with the one on the Brembo unit.
Nordic
Husqvarna
A Class
Mike,
My 2012 TE 310 will also start when in gear with the clutch engaged. Had no idea that it should not do that. It would seem to be a drag to have to find neurral if you stall it. But this is my first estart dirt bike and I confess to being a neophyte on modern machines.
Best
reveille
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Ya your right I'm an idiot
I thought he meant how when the clutch lever is engaged the bike would learch. That happened to me due to clutch drag. I hope you get it sorted easy enough.
As far as I know all electric start bikes need the clutch pulled in to start.
AndrewS
Husqvarna
AA Class
Nordic, you're misunderstanding... When the clutch is engaged, the lever is not pulled (i.e. if a gear is selected, an engaged clutch means the vehicle will move). If the lever is not pulled, you can't start by using the e-start. That is normal behaviour. There is a switch which allows starting when the clutch lever is pulled in, regardless of gear. Some people bypass this switch, so they don't have to pull in the lever to start. Mike-AK is saying his bike will start even if the bike is in gear and he doesn't pull in the clutch.
Nordic
Husqvarna
A Class
Thanks! My misunderstanding and that is completely sensible.
Kawagumby
Husqvarna
AA Class
Mebbe so, since the first thing I do is disable them, I can't recall what bikes had them and what didn't. I don't remember having one on my 08 WR250f with electric start... but then again it's all a blur to me sometimes...LOL.
Mike-AK
Husqvarna
Pro Class
"Pulled in" would be disengaged. You disengage the clutch to interrupt power to the drive wheel. And apparently all electric start bikes don't need the clutch pulled in (disengages) to start. Mine used to up until a couple days ago, but now if you hit the e-start button with the bike in gear and your hand off the clutch, it will lurch forward as the starter motor tries to propel it. Something has failed in order to make that happen, just as something has failed causing the low fuel light to come on regardless of how much gas is in the tank. The electrical systems are too complex on these FI bikes to be reliable. I'd gladly trade this low hour 2012 TE310 for a restored 430WR.
I thought that happens with all bikes - try to start in gear and it'll jump forward on ya.. at least my 2010 TE250 does. If I remember correctly, I done it a couple times thinking it was in neautral and got a little skip forward with the bike before dying out..
I hear ya though, I have two carbed bikes and a fuel injected one (the TE250).. And I've alot more issues with the fuel injection as well as blebs in quick acceleration even after JD Tuner. My carbed bikes are very responsive after a simple rejet - on my wr450 I can quickly twist the throttle in third gear and get that front wheel up in no time. Responds quick. Love it. Love the Carbs
I hear ya though, I have two carbed bikes and a fuel injected one (the TE250).. And I've alot more issues with the fuel injection as well as blebs in quick acceleration even after JD Tuner. My carbed bikes are very responsive after a simple rejet - on my wr450 I can quickly twist the throttle in third gear and get that front wheel up in no time. Responds quick. Love it. Love the Carbs
Which electric start bikes don't need the clutch pulled to start while the bike is in gear?
Mike-AK
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Mine. That's the problem.
Kawagumby
Husqvarna
AA Class
The clutch safety switch has nothing to do with fuel injection, as they are also used with carbed bikes.
Cars have the same kind of thing, and they never used to. Older electric start street bikes I rode years ago didn't have clutch switches either. These are devices that come from litigation and mebbe some sense of safety for inexperienced riders.
The reason I started bypassing the switches is purely to reduce the possibility of getting stuck somewhere when I really need to have an engine running. I read long ago that the number one stranding problem for rental adventure bikes was the clutch and kickstand safety switches. Although not that hard to diagnose in the field, I find that the trails I ride are often too technical to even find a place to set the bike aside, let alone get off the saddle... so I don't want my bike stalling anywhere for a device I don't need. And as I mentioned in an earlier post, being able to crank the engine while in gear saved my butt big-time once.
The Husky is not likely any more prone to problems with these kinds of switches than any other brand. I don't see how a stuck switch is worthy of such worry - relax and fix it
.
You said there was an electric wire going from the clutch area...why not cut the outer wrap, pull the wires out far enough to expose the insulation and break the connection in one wire? If your engine now won't start in gear, the problem is downstream at the where those wires come together (likely a stuck switch). If not, you'll need to see the schematic and find where the alternative problem lies.
Cars have the same kind of thing, and they never used to. Older electric start street bikes I rode years ago didn't have clutch switches either. These are devices that come from litigation and mebbe some sense of safety for inexperienced riders.
The reason I started bypassing the switches is purely to reduce the possibility of getting stuck somewhere when I really need to have an engine running. I read long ago that the number one stranding problem for rental adventure bikes was the clutch and kickstand safety switches. Although not that hard to diagnose in the field, I find that the trails I ride are often too technical to even find a place to set the bike aside, let alone get off the saddle... so I don't want my bike stalling anywhere for a device I don't need. And as I mentioned in an earlier post, being able to crank the engine while in gear saved my butt big-time once.
The Husky is not likely any more prone to problems with these kinds of switches than any other brand. I don't see how a stuck switch is worthy of such worry - relax and fix it
.You said there was an electric wire going from the clutch area...why not cut the outer wrap, pull the wires out far enough to expose the insulation and break the connection in one wire? If your engine now won't start in gear, the problem is downstream at the where those wires come together (likely a stuck switch). If not, you'll need to see the schematic and find where the alternative problem lies.
Mike-AK
Husqvarna
Pro Class
I think you are missing my point. This is the second random failure in the electrical system. What will the next one be? Will it kill the bike out in the bush and leave me stranded? Sorry...I'm just not seeing the quality in these Italian-made Husky's. Hopefully KTM will be able to finally do something with the brand.
Ktm 4 strokes have their own problems. Don't they use the same fuel pump has a Husqvarna?
Boogie
Husqvarna
Pro Class
The estarter system didnt work at all on the last KTM I rode.
Mike-AK
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Wonderful. By comparison, I rode the crap out of my old Swedish 250OR for 5 years, and it was two years old when I got it and had been raced previously. Outside of an intake boot crack and replacing the kickstart lever I never had to do anything other than add premix and change the gearcase oil occasionally. That thing was bulletproof, and by virtue of me riding it, idiot proof. I'd trade this TE310 for it in a heartbeat and never look back.
reveille
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Hey Mike, I took mine out for a ride last night and my 2012 Te310 starts in gear without pulling the clutch lever in too. Either the dealer disabled mine during setup or I have the same issue as you do. I usually disable the idiot switches to avoid being stuck in the bush with a bent lever/broken switch. I will look into mine and see what I find. Maybe it will help you out.?
Boogie
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Hey Mike, did you get this sorted out?