• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

2012 Husky TE511 problems

Berk Neufeld

Husqvarna
B Class
I'm having some problems with my bike, hopefully someone in here has some knowledge that can help. My bike quits running and I don't know why. The first time it happened I was driving down the road at approx. 90km/hour, it just quit, felt like it was shut off and I coasted to a stop. When I went to try to restart it, it wouldn't turn over. I could hear the starter try to go and it would turn to about the compression stroke and that was it. I came back to it later in the day with my truck and trailer to bring it home and it started up and ran like normal, so I drove it on the trailer and went home. Now it does this every time I run it. It runs for about 10 minutes and quits. I've done it about 4 times. When it runs it seems like it runs they way its supposed to but quits after about 10 min and I cant turn it over. There is about 1200Km on the bike

So far I've took off the valve cover and check clearances. All the valve are good except one exhaust valve. its the one away from the timing chain that has the compression release on it. It measures 0.010 over spec. I've also took off the water pump cover and had a look at the impeller, it looks good. I don't know if that valve could have anything to do with this problem or not, I suspect it has been like that since day 1. I'm suspecting I have a bearing or a valve that's partially seizing up. But before I take it to a dealer and spend a pile of money I though I would post on here.
Thanks in Advance Berk
 
You need to list some other things. Like, did it lose power on the instrument panel... Did start straight after it stopped... Going from what you stated I would look at the electric s first. Kill switch. Key lock etc....
 
No the instrument panel didn't loose power. After it stops it will not restart for a few hours. Everything seems fine with the electronics from what I can tell. When I push the start button the panel and lights comes on and the fuel pump starts and the starter try's to go. But the engine won't turn over. The best way I can describe it. Is its like trying to start with a nearly dead battery. Although in this case the battery is fully charged.
 
Possible temp sensor fault? Check and clean/grease connections as well. Does the cooling fan come on when it's hot?

I have pulled the temp sensor when I checked the water pump. It looked good. Yes the cooling fan comes on. I was watching the water temp with a laser temp gun. the fan cuts in at about 50 Celsius. Hard to say the exact temp from the outside of the rad temp but seems like it's good.
 
Id like to thank you guys for taking the time to help me out with this. I will start looking closer into the electrical system for the problem. I sure hope that the problem is electrical as I'm sure that will be a lot cheaper to fix than an engine rebuild.

All your comments are appreciated
 
You shouldn't need a rebuild. These motors are quite solid. Are you still running the stock map? Race Map II jumper installed? The other things you might do are replace the spark plug and perform a TPS reset.
 
You shouldn't need a rebuild. These motors are quite solid. Are you still running the stock map? Race Map II jumper installed? The other things you might do are replace the spark plug and perform a TPS reset.
On the speedo it says race map2. Not sure about the jumper. I haven't change anything since I bought it new in 2012. It has the factory akrapovic exhaust.
 
I'm in the process of adjusting the valves. Got to thinking the extra clearance on the exhaust valve that has the compression release might be causing some of my problems with the inability to restart. It is about 0.010 over spec. So maybe that along with the possibly weak battery might be the problem??? This still doesn't explain why it quits running in the first place tho. Maybe the tps reset would help this? Anyway I'll get the valves done and replace the battery and report back.
What are the thoughts on the lithium ion battery's. I see they ain't cheap. Are they worth the extra price?
Thanks guys
 
No the instrument panel didn't loose power. After it stops it will not restart for a few hours. Everything seems fine with the electronics from what I can tell. When I push the start button the panel and lights comes on and the fuel pump starts and the starter try's to go. But the engine won't turn over. The best way I can describe it. Is its like trying to start with a nearly dead battery. Although in this case the battery is fully charged.
Try and remove the plug when it does it again. If the engine spins then it will be the decomp playing up. Also it would be good to check the cranking amps when you hit the button.you may have good voltage but not high enough amperage....
 
Chances are with map 2 on dash your jumper is in. Even if you reflash ecu to map 3 your dash will still say map 2. Lithium batterys are very nice and expensive plus if I remember correctly if you have a battery tender it won't work for lithium you'll need a different charger which is more cost, your choice on battery. The bike just shutting off for a couple hours is what gets me. Gotta be gas or electrical I'd say are both tank valves opened up. I posted a thread about my fc450 in other thread and vapor lock was brought up, maybe your gas tank one way valve is bad causing bike to vapor lock and after a couple hours it leaks back to normal. Just spit ballin here...
 
I would be checking all TPS and ecu connections for water and pin corrosion. My 511 did the same thing. It went the shop, spent 2 weeks ducking around telling me it was the tps voltage. Said it was all fixed , took it out for a ride. Didn't get out of the car park. Finally got it to go after tracing it back to the bottom tps plug pins corroded. Gave a clean, used silver paste on the pins, sealed the plug with petroleum grease. Bike has never missed a beat.
 
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