• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc 2011 WR300 Rebuild - Warp 9 wheels, powdercoat, hydraulic clutch

Rabbi Cristof

Husqvarna
AA Class
I decided that I would post a build thread of my 2011 Husqvarna WR300. During a recent thread on wheels/tires for right hand drive bikes, I both had and received a lot of questions. I race harescrambles generally and ride single track woods where I live. The bike was showing some wear so I decided to do a group up build. New bearings, top end, plastics, powdercoat (frame was rusting by the steering head and typical spots where the boots wear through the paint. So I wanted to make a thread with pictures and parts lists.

I'll also preface this that I'm an average "B" rider and average mechanic. I've always worked on my own cars, bikes, but this being my 2nd 2stroke bike, never actually done a "top end". I've rebuild numerous Subaru motors, SBC, etc... Hopefully this thread can help others with similar questions as me. I'll show a parts list, number and pricing when I can.

Goals: Woods bike, plated, dual sport. I am a casual competitor in the ECEA, WNYOA, and NEOC series in the tri-state area. I attend about 10-15 races a year. I ride with safety first, since I can't afford to miss work, but will also say that if there's a jump, ledge, long straightaway, I'll be the one to go first and try to wheelie the whole thing. I wanted a fun, reliable and good looking bike. And something different that most people don't have. Everyone has a KTM, or Jap bike. I ride the street frequently to explore the woods around the house. There's not many placed to ride in NJ, but I'm fortunate enough to live near tons of state property which is preserved. We occasionally find lookouts which we can view NYC from.

The first picture is when I brought her home. The previous owner took great care (is a fellow member) and did all the right mods. Flywheel weight, carb, breather hoses re routed, upgraded coil, plugged stator hole/breather, etc... 20131104_110947.jpg

I low sided the bike int he woods about a month into owning her and cracked the front fender in half. I've NEVER had this happen before. I did some research and ended up buying a 449/511 fender. Bolted right up and I modified the stock light (cut the bottom tabs off) so that it would fit. Works great as you can see in the pics. Currently looking for a 449/511 headlight shroud/light for the bike. Also picked up the Pro Circuit pipe/silencer from Hall's.
20140405_154947.jpg

The other pic is from a mischief night moto through NYC. Awesome time. She's the one in the middle.
20141030_214413.jpg

As of November 14' the bike is apart and almost ready for powdercoat. I have the Warp 9's on order (essentially KTM wheels flipped over). I'll post pics when they arrive. I'm compiling my parts list which consists of black UFO plastics, Magura Hyro clutch, new bearings all around, powdercoat, radiators (ebay) and guards, tires, etc... Here's how she sits....
20141124_223618.jpg

FYI, since I don't have a garage, I built a 7x12 enclosed trailer and added everything I would need, battery, etrack, cabinets, etc, etc, etc... So she's occupying the trailer for the winter.

Stay tuned....
 
Keep that sucker locked well, keeping an eye out on this thread too.
hows the clutch cable route on the 300 same as 250? Straight hydro clutch should work but if its like 360 will have to do an adaption with tubes and cable am working on one now.
 
I'm in northern Morris county. We ride into Sussex and down towards rockaway.

Trailer is locked up well! The good stuff is inside.

Waiting on the wheels and then once they arrive I'll snap some pics before everything goes to powdercoating. I've somewhat underestimated the amount of time and money this was going to take. As one thing leads to another I'm over budget and finding stupid little things I'll be working with.

I have also decided against the hydro clutch. Primarily for the price. It'll run about $350 between the parts. I' had a rather lengthy conversation with Jeff at Halls and he really didn't say it was worth it. I also found that the clutch rod that pushed on the basket, was worn and scored. So with a new rod and re routed cable, I'm hoping the pull is easier. Looking into perch and levers but the ones I took off the bike work. Can't wait to get her back together...
 
Do yourself a favor on the hydr clutch. Cover the cheap plastic line with something protective. Ot better yet buy a stainless steel line. Sucks losing your fluid and having no clutch. Ask me how I know
 
Was going to buy venhill braided line, i assume your talking too me about this.
Ive learnt from bicycles that good lines need routing well and protecting, i will slip heat proof tube where it goes by expansion chamber.
 
Sorry for the delay guys, been busy with work and traveling. Finally got the frame back, motor mostly back together, wheels, etc.... Here's some pictures.

Frame Before powdercoat - FYI if anyone is wondering, the VIN is etched into the frame. After blasting and powdercoating, it's still clearly visible. I was worried that it wouldn't be....
frame before.jpg

Here's the Jug, Piston and Head. This is how it came apart, ZERO cleaning! Has about 250-300 hrs on her.
Jug.jpg

Top end almost back together
motor.jpg

Santa brought some Warp 9's!
wheels.jpg
 
And the AFTER Powdercoat

The black is a flat/matte black - it's harley denim says the powdercoater

The red is a candy apple red. I was hesitant on the gloss but it matched the hubs as best as possible. So I decided to go for it. He said he could go more matte by applying a top coat of matte finish. For the record, the triple clamps, bar mounts, and rear swingarm linkage are red. Everything else is black. The plan is to have red/white graphics to tie it all together. We'll see how it goes.

powder after 2.jpg

And the Frame, Swingarm and Subframe
powder after.jpg
 
Thanks guys. The only concern I really have is what graphics I should choose. With the black frame and plastics I am leaning towards black graphics with white/red and maybe blue in them. But I can't find a design I'm in love with....I'm open to suggestions if you guys have any.

Put the bearings all together and swingarm on today.
Frame.jpg

Pardon the mess. Waiting on the clutch side case to come in from hall's to finish the motor rebuild and install in the bike. Then I'll have enough weight to start putting her back together.

FYI - I pulled the side case off because while installing the powervalve actuator linkage I managed to pop the shaft off the guide shaft that rides off the crank. When I pulled the cover off I managed to snap the powervalve roller shaft. Don't ask me how...Must be hardened steel and when I pulled the case off the gears were caught and started to decompress the spring and when I finally freed them there was enough slack to force the shaft into the case, thus cracking the tip off...$192 mistake. Either Way not too bad. More pics to come...
 
Im sure you know to make sure the engine has good earth to the frame and also the regulator if your running lights the coil pack beneath the tank also needs good earth so clean powder coating off beneath some bolt heads and vasaline under heads to allow good conductivity and water protection.
Love the build
Graphics? Your putting plastics on and covering up all the work:( get clear perspex panels so we can see it all.
 
Thanks guys. Didn't really think about the earth to ground. Will make sure to handle it. Thanks for the advice on the graphic.

Finished the motor tonight, clutch, covers, power valve setting, etc. looks great. It's in the frame and I'll post pics to,or row. Hopefully I'll have time to mount up the new wheels to ensure they fit and get the wiring complete.
 
Here are a few pics from the other day

I'm taking a step back and having the rear spring and top engine mount plates powedercoated the candy apple to match everything else.

engineframe.jpg

engineframe2.jpg

engframe3.jpg

I'll be mounting up the bars, forks and wheels this week. Motion pro cable is ordered and should arrive next week. Then I'll start routing wires and hopefully have her buttoned up by March 1st.

Regarding graphics, I'm leaning towards this combo below.
Graphics 1.JPG

Still undecided.
 
Back
Top