• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

2011 TE310 won't start

K

kenf

Husqvarna
AA Class
Bike was running flawlessly until 2 days ago. Then it started to just randomly cut out, like I'd hit the kill switch. I eventually chased that down to a broken wire inside the key ignition switch which was making intermittent contact when the handlebars were turned. While I was chasing that down, wiggling wires, it was just like turning the key on and off -- I could hear the fuel pump repeatedly priming and main relays clicking on and off, a LOT of times.

Anyhow, I got that sorted out, soldered the broken wire, now the key switch works fine. Bike started, ran flawlessly, rode it up and down the block, stopped it, started it again and rode to work. No issues at all.

4 hours later, tried to ride home, bike would turn over just fine but absolutely would not fire. Battery seemed strong, turned it over many times, it almost fired once but refused to go. I gave up, came back with a trailer. Worked on it for a while at home -- charged the battery, no issues turning over, it still just will not fire. Every once it in great while it fires up for a few seconds, idles roughly, then dies, has done that maybe 3 times total in the several hours I've been working on it.

I checked the spark, looks okay. Fuel pump seems fine, I can hear it prime, and when I had the connector off, it squirted gas everywhere. So I'm guessing fuel injector issue? I'm running the JD Jetting Power Surge 6x, have had it on for 2 years and have never touched it. I'm wondering if the dozens of power cycles as the ignition switch was making/breaking contact might have damaged something in the electronics -- FI tuner or ECU? I'm grasping at straws here, can't think of anything else to check. Any advice would be welcomed!

Thx
KF
 
It sounds more electrical to me than fueling. Take your tank off and run the wires and look for bare wires and potential shorts. Also make sure all your connectors are properly and tightly attached. Check HT lead and both ends.
Spark plug might not be good under load. Good luck and let us know how matters pan out please.
 
Put in a new sparkplug, still wouldn't fire. Definitely getting a good spark, and the old plug was wet when I pulled it so it's getting fuel. Pulled out the JD tuner and went back to the stock FI controller as well, no change. Finally in frustration I cranked it over for a while while randomly pumping the throttle, not because it made any sense but just because I had nothing else to try.

So it started.

WTF?!??

Basically when the bike is stone cold, it is incredibly hard to start, but after even a few seconds of running, it idles fine, revs fine, has full power, and will also restart just fine after being shut off. 15 minutes later, still started fine. 2 hours later, when fully cooled down, it wouldn't start. Again I pumped the throttle like mad while cranking, and eventually it fired up, roughly for a few seconds, then ran like a charm again. I reinstalled the JD tuner, reconnected all the lights and everything else I'd pulled, no change, all good.

One other thing I noticed, though, in the entire time I've had the bike (3 years) I don't think I've ever noticed the rad fan come on, even in gnarly terrain and hot weather I've never had it boil over, temp gauge occasionally goes over 100 when I'm abusing the clutch on nasty climbs, but only just barely and cools down again pretty fast. Tonight, the fan came on after just a few minutes idling, temp gauge read 78. Then the next time I ran it, I noticed the fan came on while the temp gauge said something like 58. I checked the wiring diagram and the fan is controlled by the ECU, which makes me think the ECU thinks my bike is a lot hotter than it really is. Could this be screwing up the FI for cold starts? I recall the temp sensor on these bikes (2011) had a tendency to fail, but usually people complained about the bike dying or not starting when hot. Anybody know if it also affect cold starts, and how to check the temp sensor?

Thanks!
KF
 
Oh, and before anybody suggests it, I tried every variation on cold start lever, throttle closed, open, adjusted idle screw, etc. etc. I checked the cold start cable as well, it's definitely connected to the throttle body and actuating something in there. But prior to this past weekend, it very rarely even needed the cold start lever anyhow, except on really chilly mornings. Even then, it would generally at least fire, it just wouldn't necessarily idle very well and needed a brief pull on the lever to help it warm up. What I'm seeing now is totally different, cold start lever doesn't seem to help at all, only opening and closing (i.e. pumping) the throttle while leaning on the starter seems to get it to fire when cold, and this behavior started literally overnight a few days back.

Thx
KF
 
kenf said:
Oh, and before anybody suggests it, I tried every variation on cold start lever, throttle closed, open, adjusted idle screw, etc. etc. I checked the cold start cable as well, it's definitely connected to the throttle body and actuating something in there. But prior to this past weekend, it very rarely even needed the cold start lever anyhow, except on really chilly mornings. Even then, it would generally at least fire, it just wouldn't necessarily idle very well and needed a brief pull on the lever to help it warm up. What I'm seeing now is totally different, cold start lever doesn't seem to help at all, only opening and closing (i.e. pumping) the throttle while leaning on the starter seems to get it to fire when cold, and this behavior started literally overnight a few days back.

Thx
KF
Click to expand...

throw a new temp sensor on it - could also be the connection
 
Yup, water temp sensor. I can't get a replacement for at least a week and couldn't find the sensor specs online, but a couple of quick checks with a multimeter and some educated guesses, and it turns out that shoving a 1.5kohm resistor into the sensor leads temporarily solved my problem. Started on the first try, no issues at all.

A note to anybody else searching this forum for tips, the WTS sensor is NOT a diode (inverse temperature/resistance relationship as claimed in another thread in this forum), it really is just a resistance that increases with temperature. When I pulled the connector and left it open-circuit (effectively very high resistance), the engine fan came on immediately and stayed on, so the ECU considers that "very hot". With the connector shorted out completely (very low resistance) the fan would not come on, but the bike still wouldn't start (presumably a short is an error condition for the ECU). The (defective) sensor measured 2.5kohms, which the ECU seemed to consider too hot for a cold start, but not as hot as an open circuit. Hence the 1.5kohm resistor, which did the trick.

Tip to anybody else having cold start problems due to a flaky WTS, if you can't get your hands on a new sensor, in a pinch you can scrounge up a 1.5kohm resistor for pennies at any electronics shop. Just pop the connector off, shove the leads of the resistor into the connector, and fire it up!

Cheers
KF
 
kenf said:
Yup, water temp sensor. I can't get a replacement for at least a week and couldn't find the sensor specs online, but a couple of quick checks with a multimeter and some educated guesses, and it turns out that shoving a 1.5kohm resistor into the sensor leads temporarily solved my problem. Started on the first try, no issues at all.

A note to anybody else searching this forum for tips, the WTS sensor is NOT a diode (inverse temperature/resistance relationship as claimed in another thread in this forum), it really is just a resistance that increases with temperature. When I pulled the connector and left it open-circuit (effectively very high resistance), the engine fan came on immediately and stayed on, so the ECU considers that "very hot". With the connector shorted out completely (very low resistance) the fan would not come on, but the bike still wouldn't start (presumably a short is an error condition for the ECU). The (defective) sensor measured 2.5kohms, which the ECU seemed to consider too hot for a cold start, but not as hot as an open circuit. Hence the 1.5kohm resistor, which did the trick.

Tip to anybody else having cold start problems due to a flaky WTS, if you can't get your hands on a new sensor, in a pinch you can scrounge up a 1.5kohm resistor for pennies at any electronics shop. Just pop the connector off, shove the leads of the resistor into the connector, and fire it up!

Cheers
KF
Click to expand...
nice work these huskies are good once you understand them.
 
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