• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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2011 TE310 Just dies and will not refire

Pullened

Pullened

Husqvarna
C Class
I am having a problem. I just purchased my 2011 TE310 two weeks ago. It started about the 50 mile mark. When I just cruise and stop regularly the bike will no show symptoms. When I get on the throttle and push the bike through the tight single track it will just bog and die quickly after about 4 miles. After it dies the bike will not start for about 5-10 minutes. I like to lug the bike in 3rd and 4th gear. The throttle is set to 100.4 at WOT. The ECU is mapped at 105 for all three parameters. The fuel pump seems to strain when trying to restart. Temperature was about 85-95 degrees farenhieght and we are at sea level. Any ideas???
 
Sounds like a faulty temperature sensor. Next time it happens try disconnecting the sensor and see if the bike fires up. It's a cheap part, and you should have the updated sensor on a 2011, but even updated parts can fail..
 
tnttimber said:
My guess would be a poor gas tank vent. Does the line have one of those one way valves?
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Easy enough to check. Next time it won't start, unscrew the gas cap.

1) do you hear the pressure being released when you unscrewed the cap? This means you have vapor lock.

2) if you heard that, try starting the bike. If it starts right up, bingo, your problem is vapor lock and there are a few easy ways to solve it. Some eliminate the one way valve, but I prefer to keep on on the bike so if I tip it over, gas isn't running out all over the place. But any mechanical valve like that can stick.

3) if you didn't hear the pressure release, give starting it a try. If it starts, you probably had vapor lock but didn't notice it. If it doesn't, vapor lock is not your problem.
 
A while back the fuel pump on my '11 te310 sometimes would sound like it struggled and sometimes would not prime at all. I took it back to the dealer and of course the symptoms wouldn't repeat for him but he changed the fuel pump anyway. 4 months and about 250 miles later and the problem has never resurfaced.
 
ADHD said:
A while back the fuel pump on my '11 te310 sometimes would sound like it struggled and sometimes would not prime at all. I took it back to the dealer and of course the symptoms wouldn't repeat for him but he changed the fuel pump anyway. 4 months and about 250 miles later and the problem has never resurfaced.
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yup listen for the fuel pump when you try to restart.

You ride tight single track in 4th gear? Wow!
 
If the it sounds like the fuel pump is constantly cycling when key on or a bump of the starter (but engine not running) then you very likely have a failing fuel filter or pressure regulator. This will change with temp and is most prevalent in low RPM/High load riding conditions. If you have a way to check for fuel pressure, it should maintain 40psi at all times, even after shut off. If you shut off the bike and loose 5 or more psi immediately you have a leak within the fuel pump assembly and I'd bet it's the fuel filter.
 
Replaced fuel pump, and temp sensor (updated white housing), and removed fan. Raced a HS Sunday and bike performed awesome. Also installed 12 hole injector w/o ECU upgrade, same injector on a Kawi. Really helped off idle engine performance as well as a little on the top end.
 
Pullened said:
Replaced fuel pump, and temp sensor (updated white housing), and removed fan. Raced a HS Sunday and bike performed awesome. Also installed 12 hole injector w/o ECU upgrade, same injector on a Kawi. Really helped off idle engine performance as well as a little on the top end.
Click to expand...
Did the stock ECU require any adjustment when you installed the 12 hole injector? Are you using the stock exhaust?
 
well I wish I could be confident that the problem isn't going to resurface, I don't think the fuel pumps go bad as they are an assembly with fuel filter and pressure regulator. My bet is if the bike runs better with new pump assembly, it's the $5 filter that was failing and should be on a small engine carbuerator and not a fuel injectected bike that's the real source of the problem. Until there is a filter that can withstand 60psi duty pressure with higher burst pressure, there will be a high instance of filter failure that appears to be a fuel supply/pump assembly issue. Problem is the whole assembly is a couple hundred bucks and it's the cheap glued 2 piece filter that's not designed to be serviced and has a psi duty rating of 7.5 with burst rating of 36psi that's the real issue.
 
Stock exhaust and stock ECU. I did use iBeat to adjust the CO. I am at sea level. CO1 at 102 and CO2 at 101 and CO3 at 100. Bike felt the best at these settings.
 
Has anyone found an aftermarket pump that will work?
I pulled my fuel pump today and was surprised it has "made in china" on it.
Are the pumps in the newer bikes better?
Who has the best price on a replacement?
 
Can someone post a pic of the "newer" fuel pump assemblies on the xlites I guess, alot of us have posted pics of the 2008-2010 assemblies but I don't know if it's the same with the newer models. I know it's not the same on the 449/511.
 
Bobby said:
well I wish I could be confident that the problem isn't going to resurface, I don't think the fuel pumps go bad as they are an assembly with fuel filter and pressure regulator. My bet is if the bike runs better with new pump assembly, it's the $5 filter that was failing and should be on a small engine carbuerator and not a fuel injectected bike that's the real source of the problem. Until there is a filter that can withstand 60psi duty pressure with higher burst pressure, there will be a high instance of filter failure that appears to be a fuel supply/pump assembly issue. Problem is the whole assembly is a couple hundred bucks and it's the cheap glued 2 piece filter that's not designed to be serviced and has a psi duty rating of 7.5 with burst rating of 36psi that's the real issue.
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Bobby- on the fuel filter issue, if you find anything let us know. OlderHuskyrider- found a metal filter with 5/16" barbs and reports no issues: duralast FF3330DL. I have found that its not just Husky using poorly chosen fuel filters- its pretty common: as you said they would be better for gravity fed filtering/ carbs (low PSI). I have been doing some reading and although I believe the metal filter Olderhuskyrider found is probably better than our Stock filter I still am not confident. I see that filter quoted in efi Snomobile posts and they say it does not meet the requirements: non-directional, <10 micron, not made for the pressure. Appaernly EFI filters should be directional, <5microns, and be rated and tested for the PSI of the system. There was a guy that appaently split a metal filter (thier systems go up to 58PSI)... I think Their solution would work for us... I'll keep researching: but I am sure either OlderHuskyRider's will "work" or we'll find a better solution- someone will eventually I hope.

Edit: add...
After rereading this post http://www.dootalk.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=345091&st=0 and wasting alot of time in Jegs/summit/googling.... I found that these guys "approved" the Wix 33095 same as Fram G3606 same as Duralast FF3330DL (the one OlderHuskyRider is using). looking it up it is actually "for" carberated vehicles- But...
 
Pullened said:
Replaced fuel pump, and temp sensor (updated white housing), and removed fan. Raced a HS Sunday and bike performed awesome. Also installed 12 hole injector w/o ECU upgrade, same injector on a Kawi. Really helped off idle engine performance as well as a little on the top end.
Click to expand...
Pullened said:
Stock exhaust and stock ECU. I did use iBeat to adjust the CO. I am at sea level. CO1 at 102 and CO2 at 101 and CO3 at 100. Bike felt the best at these settings.
Click to expand...
SWEET!
Surprised to hear a report where the 12-port worked so well with stock CDI and only Ibeat trims (not drastic fuel trims either)

Let us know how that works out or if issues continue:thumbsup: (thinking of throwing one on my 09TE45 but worry I will not be able to get it tuned as good as it is now with Ibeat)
 
HUSKYnXJnWI said:
Edit: add...
After rereading this post http://www.dootalk.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=345091&st=0 and wasting alot of time in Jegs/summit/googling.... I found that these guys "approved" the Wix 33095 same as Fram G3606 same as Duralast FF3330DL (the one OlderHuskyRider is using). looking it up it is actually "for" carberated vehicles- But...
Click to expand...

I'm on my second one now, at 7500 miles, the first one lasted from 1000 to about 6500 miles, before getting almost completely clogged up.
 
OlderHuskyRider said:
I'm on my second one now, at 7500 miles, the first one lasted from 1000 to about 6500 miles, before getting almost completely clogged up.
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Being that they are for Chevy s10's, Plymoth Horizons, and Yugo's that don't change their fuel filters that often I am guessing you have access to some real crap gas. But at 3 dollars a filter, changing them every 7000 miles wouldn't seem too bad. That's the filter I am going to use confidently... thanks again!

R_Little said:
.....so the "Intermittent" fuel pump I have in my box can be fixed with a filter change?
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Its a variable- worth swapping in a different filter. I think one of the causes to early pump failure is the prefilter being disconnected when the pump comes out of its harness. The Post filter being clogged or leaking would deffinately effect performance.

by the way- sorry if this post is derailed:doh: - at least Pullend's issues appear squared away and we are kinda on topic...:excuseme:
 
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