• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

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    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

2011 TE310 Fuel System Problems (Again!!)

superalloy10

superalloy10

Husqvarna
AA Class
OK. I'm really trying to hard to like this bike.
I purchased the bike from a dealer in Arizona, uncorked with 120 miles on it. I already replaced the fuel pump after the first ride! Running out of fuel apparently fries the fuel pump. I replaced it with the upgraded aftermarket pump and submersible fuel line. Oh, and the plastic fuel elbow at the tank connection is about as much use as an ashtray on a motorbike. I replaced that with the aftermarket one from ZipTy racing.
I took the bike out yesterday and it ran fine again for the first 30 miles. Then it just died! Step 1) I turned it off and re-primed the fuel pump. It started fine then off I went again! I would go along for about an eighth of a mile and it would just die again. Repeat Step 1 20 more times!
I figured the bike was overheating so I let it cool down for about 15 minutes. It ran fine for about 3 miles then started all over again. Repeat Step 1 another 20 or so times! (at about 17 miles I put in 33oz of gas from 1 MSR Bottle)
I figured I'd stop and let the bike cool and see if that helped since it seemed to have helped earlier. I was carrying 2 more extra bottles of gas so I decided to dump them in to maybe cool down the fuel. The bike cooled down for about five minutes. Th bike started just fine and off I went again, the bike ran fine for the next 15 miles home on dirt roads and some single track!

I have a theory, could the Fuel Injection supply line from the fuel pump be leaking past the fuel filter? If it was submerged (full fuel tank) the venturi effect would be sucking in gas, once it was above the fuel level it would be sucking in fumes. I plan on running the fuel level low to see if I can re-create the problem. The bike only has 250 miles from new!!!
 
Temperature sensor maybe

Are you in AZ?

Temp sensor is somewhat common fault. New part for fix. Dealers that can help....Motoxotica (Dan), Eric's in Pasadena, CA, or Hall's Cycles online. Maybe where you bought the bike too but I wasn't hearing about AZ having a viable dealer.
 
Your supposition might be valid, especially if the pic below is what your system looks like, that is a lot of hose to replace with submersible, $20 a foot hose. Is this the fuel system on your bike? When you do your low-fuel test, keep the bike moving so as to keep it as cool as possible.
(thanks to Aaron8 for the pic)
IMG_1799.jpg
 
+1 on the temp sensor. Motocity in Avondale is where I bought my TXC310 since they sponsor the AMRA racing series. I haven't tried their service department but have heard they are pretty good. My local dealer here in Tucson was unable to diagnose a bad ballistic battery on my bike so I can't really reccomend them.
 
If it was a temp sensor issue you can try removing the sensor and seeing if the bike starts after a stall event.
 
If the pump was not whirring when it stalled it's the pump. I think they overheat.

Happened to me and the dealer replaced the pump with one from another bike and it's has not done it again, but then again I don't race it anymore.
 
glangston said:
Temperature sensor maybe

Are you in AZ?

Temp sensor is somewhat common fault. New part for fix. Dealers that can help....Motoxotica (Dan), Eric's in Pasadena, CA, or Hall's Cycles online. Maybe where you bought the bike too but I wasn't hearing about AZ having a viable dealer.
Click to expand...
I bought it in AZ but live in So Cal. I'll let you know how the test goes and maybe just replace the temp sensor anyway. Thanks
 
OlderHuskyRider said:
Your supposition might be valid, especially if the pic below is what your system looks like, that is a lot of hose to replace with submersible, $20 a foot hose. Is this the fuel system on your bike? When you do your low-fuel test, keep the bike moving so as to keep it as cool as possible.
(thanks to Aaron8 for the pic)
IMG_1799.jpg
Click to expand...
Yes, its the same as this. I already replaced the fuel pump and line going to the filter. My concern is the grey fittings and plastic line leaking. Just a guess. I plan on running the bike on the road to run the gas down and carry some MSR bottles to refill. Thanks
 
Is there a special tool to disconnect the the grey quick release fittings? I tried taking them apart but didn't want to break them, so I left them connected when I replaced the fuel pump. Any suggestions? I would like to check for leaks.
 
When I had what turned out to be a battery issue I bought a fuel pressure tester from Harbor Freight and some hose and checked my fuel pressure between the fuel tank outlet to the injector. When the bike runs fine the pressure is steady and just over 50psi. I checked for leakage from the plastic fuel filter (it's possible for it to crack) and hoses by observing how long the pressure held after the pump was turned off. Mine was fine - held pressure long after I got bored.
 
MikeB said:
When I had what turned out to be a battery issue I bought a fuel pressure tester from Harbor Freight and some hose and checked my fuel pressure between the fuel tank outlet to the injector. When the bike runs fine the pressure is steady and just over 50psi. I checked for leakage from the plastic fuel filter (it's possible for it to crack) and hoses by observing how long the pressure held after the pump was turned off. Mine was fine - held pressure long after I got bored.
Click to expand...

Mike can you post up the parts/stuff you bought to check the fuel pressure? I need to do the same and I am unfamiliar with the procedure
 
Some people have modified either circlip pliers or hose pliers to get a grip on and remove the fuel quick release.

Look at some pics and you will see if this might work for you. The more times you do it ....the better you'll get BUT it's sort of awkward to say the least.
 
Here's a picture of the $20 pressure tester and the box it came in - I bought a foot of 3/16" high pressure hose and some hose clamps - clamped the short end to the fuel tank outlet and the long end to the injection inlet - started the bike and watched the pressure. In my case I had a miss and found the pressure was unsteady when the bike was missing - it turned out that the battery had an internal open which only came to light at certain vibrations (rpm's) - I found it with a voltmeter on the battery.
062712110709.jpg
 
Just an update. It seams to have been the Temp sensor. I changed it out and ran the bike for 60 miles, mostly road with about 10 miles of single track. No issues. However, it was wet and cold, 55 degrees. It's So Cal, so thats cold for us. I did install the reflective temp blanket under the tank just for insurance. Fingers crossed that's fixed the problem.
 
superalloy10 said:
Is there a special tool to disconnect the the grey quick release fittings? I tried taking them apart but didn't want to break them
Click to expand...

+1

I'm trying to get them off to replace the oem tank with the IMS....I'm not exactly sure where to put pressure to get them to release, and I do NOT want to break one!
 
I'd be making a tool from some stiff, vinyl tubing, or some thin wall, aluminum conduit, about as big around as the grey piece, notch the end so that 4 fingers remain to slide into the well, and nudge the tabs open.
IMG_1795.jpg
 
They came off without too much fuss today... just a matter of applying pressure in the right place - and maybe doing it mid-day on a warm sunny day instead of in a cold garage late at night;)
 
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