• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

2011 TE310 chain tension-yes again

DavidB

Husqvarna
A Class
If you want to give me a smart A reply don't. Nobody is perfect and yes I have a shop manual. I am not a moron but with the bike on the stand, at what point on the swingarm let's say are you checking chain tension and what should the measurement be? Also, are any of you guys taking the chain protector off? The plastic cover that I guess is to keep crap from flying off chain or help prevent stuff from getting caught in chain!!
 
If you want to give me a smart A reply don't. Nobody is perfect and yes I have a shop manual. I am not a moron but with the bike on the stand, at what point on the swingarm let's say are you checking chain tension and what should the measurement be? Also, are any of you guys taking the chain protector off? The plastic cover that I guess is to keep crap from flying off chain or help prevent stuff from getting caught in chain!!

Do look on past posts there is lots of info on this it has been talked about 100 times ........
 
Personally, i stick a socket between the chain and swingarm right in front of the plastic chainguard. I use a 36mm cause it gets the slack real close to correct. I adjust the chain till no slack is present in the lower section, there will be tension against the socket when you remove it. Just an old race trick that made it easier. I will try to post a pic later.
 
I do the same. just on the rear side of that chain guide vertical lip. In my opinion though a bit loose is better. That rubber that they use in the rear chain guard is soft. On my 2010 I had mine a bit tighter and that stuff wore out like butter. Now I just make it on the loose side of that socket size.
 
This is how I did mine.
I had the shock removed to replace the spring, so (when sitting on a stand) lifted the swingarm to perfectly vertical (max length on the chain) and adjusted it correctly with about 10mm play. Then I let the swingarm hang fully (with the shock back in) and marked a point on the swingarm where I can push the chain up and have about 10mm clearance to the swingarm. Now I know when it is correctly tensioned and can check it very easily.
 
I found a piece of PVC that is the size that gives me the slack the manual calls for.

HuskyTipsChain.jpg
 
Here's my nearly idiot proof (i still surprise myself sometimes:doh:) marking for chain slack. I've got a metric socket with 35 mm OD to gauge with every oil change. Stock sticker is LONG gone. Sharpie needs refreshed a couple times a year.

IMG_0431.JPG
 
Curious, why did you replace the spring? I weigh in at 226lb geared up, should I be looking at a stiffer spring for my 2011 310?

On my TE450, I weigh in at 200 fully suited, my spring tension is almost maxxed out. If I add any more pounds, I will need a new spring myself.
 
Curious, why did you replace the spring? I weigh in at 226lb geared up, should I be looking at a stiffer spring for my 2011 310?

I weigh exactly the same geared up and couldn't get the sag right, went to a 5.6 kg and I think it is still too soft. I reckon I need a 6.0? Racetech have finally updated their search function for these and it recommends a 6.0kg also.
 
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