• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

2011 Te 310 Owners Speek Up

So far:
Smog can octopus removed.
Rear-end cleaned up & moved the rear signals forward.
They may break off at some point, so then will likely replace them with some flush-mounts.
Tried installing an Enduro Engineering rad-brace from the 2010 model, but it wouldn’t fit.
The tank & fan are different.
The Enduro Engineering skid plate also would not fit the new frame.
Hyde Racing said that theirs fits the 2011, so I bought one. They were wrong, it does not fit.

The Husky optional short seat makes the bike low enough for me.
It has the unfortunate side effect of reducing the seat to peg distance, which makes the transition from sitting to standing more difficult and is hard on my old knees.
May look at some lower pegs...

Running the 13/50 sprockets that came with the bike.
Nice for off-road, but on-road you just have to resign yourself to lower speeds.
90-kph seems comfortable, 120-kph is WFO.

The engine is superb, good power & torque. Low end power better that I would have dreamed. Has better power than a stock DRZ.
Suspension seems good for a casual rider, nothing I need to change.

With about 1200-km on it, the water temp sensor failed & bike would not start.
Guess I will carry a spare, although the dealer says the part has been improved.

Current set-up:
• Cycra CRM bark-busters.
• Enduro Engineering shark-fin
• seal-skins
• TuBliss system front & rear with Slime
• Pirelli MT43 trials rear tire at 7-psi off-road
• Pirelli XCMH front tire at 10-psi off-road
• Motosportz front axle plug
• Motosportz rad guard
• Motosportz skidplate
• Dirt-Bike gear tail bag with minimal tools.
• Motosportz axle wrench
• Motosportz spark plug wrench
• 6 extra large zip-ties under the seat.
• Giant Loop MoJave – just for multi-day rides
• NGK Iridium CR8EB - to be installed
• Motosportz Steering damper – to be installed
 
husky bom said:
another 2 days testing/riding and engine seem to be freeing up every thing ok except for the rear shock ...CAN'T GET THE REAR RIDER RACE SAG RIGHT....it is due to the light 5.2 stock spring so went up to a 5.6 can get sag right now with out winding lots of spring perload on the shock and lets the shock get more travel and this alows me to get more weight transfer to the front ..ie..better grip rear and front now
the 5.2 spring will only be good for riders at 75kg geared up
NOTE..5.6 comes std in the te450/511 range
with my gearing set at 12/51 this is what its doing on long flat fire road
60kph= 5,700 to 6,000 rpm
80kpm=7,500 to 8,000 rpm
90kpm=10,000 rpm
note these engines rev to 11,000 rpm and make max power at around 10,500 rpm
as for pushing it at 90kph i did this once as i did not want to do this as engine is still new and i would never do 90kph ever with this bike only just in this test. as i only ride s/t i would get do 70/80kph max
ps..my fan does come on only if sitting for about 15min running on the spot

well im just about to go out and do a 100km hardish single track ride so this should see the engine broken in and will do a overall bike ride report

talk soon
H.B
Click to expand...

How smooth is the 310 engine with respect to engine vibrations? The 2005 through 2009 TE450 and TE510s had significant vibration. The TE250 of that era was based on the same design and was also not counterbalanced but due to the smaller displacement, vibration was not so bad. I am curious as to how the new TE250/TE310 is.

Thanks.

NC
 
Surprised by the hp numbers considering the 350xcf is supposedly close to 40 and the 250 is closer to 35
 
slyfox: unless you see bikes tested on the same day & same dyno you cannot accurately compare them.
Different brands of dynos are famously variable in the readings; air pressure, elevations & ambient temperature also play a role as does the software.
Of course the mfg #'s are often just a bit optimistic. Sometimes a lot optimistic.
 
Recently I had the chance to weigh both my bikes with fuel tanks empty.
Both bikes are equipped with bark-busters, rad-guards, skid-plates & shark-fins.
Both bikes have a fender-bag with tools.
Both bikes hold a liter of oil but no idea how much antifreeze. These fluids were full.

The Husky TE310 weighs 269-lbs without fuel.
With fuel tank full (8 liters) the calculated weight should be 282-lbs.

The Suzuki DRZ400 weighs 311-lbs without fuel.
With IMS fuel tank full (12 liters) the calculated weight should be 330-lbs.
The DRZ has a lightweight exhaust & passenger footpegs removed.
It started life as an SM but has been converted to dirt with 18/21 Rad/Excel wheels.

48-lbs difference full of fuel.
 
The 2011 TE310 weighs 233lbs w/o fuel. W/fuel should be 245. That's 85lbs less than your DRZ.
 
mnb said:
The 2011 TE310 weighs 233lbs w/o fuel. W/fuel should be 245. That's 85lbs less than your DRZ.
Click to expand...

My 2011 te310 was 117kg on the cattle scales sunday or 257 lbs, ~6litres in the tank & likely a few kg's of mud thrown in for ballast ( all road kit removed ). 300EXC(2012) was 111kg.
 
mnb said:
The 2011 TE310 weighs 233lbs w/o fuel. W/fuel should be 245. That's 85lbs less than your DRZ.
Click to expand...
Nope. Weighed it myself. Clean, no mud ballast :)
Mfg claimed weights are often optimistic, as are claimed HP figures.
Unfortunately I did not weigh it 'naked', but no way the rad guard, skid-plate, tools, etc adds 36#.
Maybe with no oil, antifreeze or battery it gets down to 233.
 
fasteer said:
- no bark-busters, rad guard, skid plate, headlight, tail-light, tools?
Click to expand...
I've got Radiator Guards & G2 Bark Busters, but no lights, exhaust baffles ( they are heavy ), tools or radiator fan.
It would not be far off & I think matches DougW's weight pretty much on the money as I had more fuel, but all the road gear removed.
The scales I used were accurate, farmers tend to be pretty careful with cattle scales & they are a good size to fit a bike on.
 
I wondered how the TE250 and TE310 can be listed as exactly the same weight with the 310 having longer stroke and higher head (there not) anybody check the USB memory that came with the 2011 te310?
TE250 listed at 245.82 and TE310 246.26 pounds thats kerb weight without fuel and no doubt with mirrors,plate fixture, DB killer and intake restrictor not on bike. I weighted mine on delivery with full tank fuel and all restriction parts in place and that extra large 140 karoo. 264 pounds. now is a few pounds lighter. these bikes are very light. My old 03 KLX400R (same as DRZ400E enduro) listed at 262 and is over 295 with gas.
L. (2011 TE310 at 14 hours)
 
fasteer said:
slyfox: unless you see bikes tested on the same day & same dyno you cannot accurately compare them.
Different brands of dynos are famously variable in the readings; air pressure, elevations & ambient temperature also play a role as does the software.
Of course the mfg #'s are often just a bit optimistic. Sometimes a lot optimistic.
Click to expand...

Guess I figured they'd be different by +-5 hp not 10.
I,m sure a little engine and maybe intake work would make a nice difference. Think I read somewhere that an fmf exhaust really woke the bike up too.
Looking forward to the new txc ...hope they get here soon.
 
any one useing 13/52 gearing just wanting to see what you think

i was using 12/51 and it was to much could not keep the fromt wheel on the ground
now using 12/50 and it is starting to be a bit of a hand full to ride

so who has tryed 13/52 and what is your report?? or 13/51 ????

note... using for single track and flowing single track only
 
I'm getting things the way I like it.

Mods:
- G2 Ergo hand guards with Mongo mount & nylon bar inserts.
Click to expand...

Hello Kiwi - I just brought a 2011 TE310 home. Your post led me to investigate the G2 Mongo mounts. I like that they mount to the triple clamp.
Of course there's only one bolt on the upper triple clamp, so I'm interested how well the Mongo clamp interfaces with the triple clamp itself.
Is it a flat, secure, metal to metal interface? How does the rest of the kit fit up? Any bending, pounding or swearing involved?
Thanks in advance for your input.
 
Aaron8 said:
Hello Kiwi - I just brought a 2011 TE310 home. Your post led me to investigate the G2 Mongo mounts. I like that they mount to the triple clamp.
Of course there's only one bolt on the upper triple clamp, so I'm interested how well the Mongo clamp interfaces with the triple clamp itself.
Is it a flat, secure, metal to metal interface? How does the rest of the kit fit up? Any bending, pounding or swearing involved?
Thanks in advance for your input.
Click to expand...

There's alot of adjustment in the Mongo mount, it was just about getting a setting that allowed the max freeplay, no swearing ( I did swear when I tapped the bar for the nylon thread a little off line though ).

I figure it's a compromise the single bolt, it's not a clean mount & I'm almost definitely marking the triple clamp, but I like the Mongo concept & I'm not getting arm pump, so I'll take the good with the bad.

As an aside, has anyone else had problems with the connector into the relay on the left side of the seat, mine is a dodgy connect ( got a electrician having a look today, either cables, seating in the connector or connector itself ) & I ran the battery absolutely flat Sunday, so flat the fuel pump gave up the ghost.
 
kiwitxc said:
There's alot of adjustment in the Mongo mount, it was just about getting a setting that allowed the max freeplay, no swearing ( I did swear when I tapped the bar for the nylon thread a little off line though ).

I figure it's a compromise the single bolt, it's not a clean mount & I'm almost definitely marking the triple clamp, but I like the Mongo concept & I'm not getting arm pump, so I'll take the good with the bad.

As an aside, has anyone else had problems with the connector into the relay on the left side of the seat, mine is a dodgy connect ( got a electrician having a look today, either cables, seating in the connector or connector itself ) & I ran the battery absolutely flat Sunday, so flat the fuel pump gave up the ghost.
Click to expand...

Thanks Kiwi! That's just what I needed to know.
 
husky bom said:
any one useing 13/52 gearing just wanting to see what you think

i was using 12/51 and it was to much could not keep the fromt wheel on the ground
now using 12/50 and it is starting to be a bit of a hand full to ride

so who has tryed 13/52 and what is your report?? or 13/51 ????

note... using for single track and flowing single track only
Click to expand...

I am using 13/50 and I am doing only off road: woods, some mx, CC and hard enduro. It is complitly enough for all terrains. Until 65km/h, the engine work under normal stress, after that you start to squeez the juice out of the engine. You have enough power to pull the bike over a quite steep hills from 0. So enough power and torque for mix terrain and it is a perfect combination IMO (and I came to TE 310 from the strongest enduro engine ktm 530 ready to race - complitly opened).
 
Just bought a 2011 310 and I'm coming off a 2005 KTM 400exc with 13/52 sprockets. Right now the 310 is set up with 13/45 sprockets. The 310 came with an extra 50T sprocket. I have a dual sport ride coming up but I do not have time to experiment with sprockets. I really like the gearing from my 400 but I was told that the internal gears of the 310 will be different from the 400 so the 45T sprocket might be my best bet.
I'm wondering if I should change to the 50T sprocket to get close to what my 400 was like or stick with the 45T sprocket?
 
I didnt even tried 45T since for serious hard enduro it is not suitable (you will have problems on step hills with rocks or only step hils or technical trails). For dual riding (road, macadam, forest trails) it could be good, specialy if you will ride with stronger bikes. You will deffinitly torture bike much less, since with 13/50 on road or "off" road (on road), you come too quickly in high rpm. But once again, for serious off road go with 13/50- it will be almost the same as your previous ktm with 13/52.
 
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