• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

2011 Te 310 Owners Speek Up

I was thinking more along the lines of a quick coupler system you could easily disconnect, let the oil drain (and remove the drain bolt to clean the screens)
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I think the 2011 T310 Oil drain Hose will be still a hot topic in the future. The problem no one sure what it does. If they are some sort of oil sump piping, then why don give them a seperate nipple and pipe just like any Yamaha WR 250 F ?. WR 250 have normal drain plug. If they are sump piping, then how come the other end conect to the upper section of frame just after the fuel tank ??.I think I should cahnge the pipe with clear pipe so we can see if oil actually climb up or dribble down. Then we know why the design is like that.

Oh also, I mentioned that my TE310 radiator fan never goes on, Does anybody have seen TE310 2011 model goes on ? How hot they need to be ? Kind regards
 
The big trick.... get that drain plug back into the case with the hose attached and not cross thread the fitting and strip it out.

That hole in the fitting is so small it really can't be doing anything important other than a drip line.
 
Oh also, I mentioned that my TE310 radiator fan never goes on, Does anybody have seen TE310 2011 model goes on ? How hot they need to be ? Kind regards[/quote]

I checked that mine actually comes on the other day, just let it sit and idle for about 10 minutes. I haven't actually noticed it come on while riding though. Might want to check the fuses?
 
These things are hard to overheat. You have to really be trying to get them boiling. The 450's & 510's boil over a lot easier.
 
another 2 days testing/riding and engine seem to be freeing up every thing ok except for the rear shock ...CAN'T GET THE REAR RIDER RACE SAG RIGHT....it is due to the light 5.2 stock spring so went up to a 5.6 can get sag right now with out winding lots of spring perload on the shock and lets the shock get more travel and this alows me to get more weight transfer to the front ..ie..better grip rear and front now
the 5.2 spring will only be good for riders at 75kg geared up
NOTE..5.6 comes std in the te450/511 range
with my gearing set at 12/51 this is what its doing on long flat fire road
60kph= 5,700 to 6,000 rpm
80kpm=7,500 to 8,000 rpm
90kpm=10,000 rpm
note these engines rev to 11,000 rpm and make max power at around 10,500 rpm
as for pushing it at 90kph i did this once as i did not want to do this as engine is still new and i would never do 90kph ever with this bike only just in this test. as i only ride s/t i would get do 70/80kph max
ps..my fan does come on only if sitting for about 15min running on the spot

well im just about to go out and do a 100km hardish single track ride so this should see the engine broken in and will do a overall bike ride report

talk soon
H.B
 
about 1000 km on the 2011 TE310 now, most done over a long weekend ride in the Kootenay Mountains of BC.
Not much to add to the above pros & cons and mods, except different rubber:
TuBliss system instead of tubes and a Pirelli MT43 Trials rear tire matched with a Pirelli Scorpion XCMH front.
With 7-psi in rear & 10-psi in front, this is a little goat, easily cruises up nasty rock & scree slopes that have others struggling.
 
Fully dressed I'm around 190lbs and I was able to get 105mm sag w 25-27mm on free sag.

As for the fan mine came on once and on my 2010 te250 it would only come on during really warm days and if the bike was really working hard. As stated above they do pretty good with the heat.
 
Today I let my TE310 idle for about more than 10 minuteswith Ibeat monitor running, the temperature on the Ibeat screen reach 95 Degree C and the fan still not turn on !! (outside temp 25 degrees, 900 m above sea level). Reaching 95 then I stopped the engine,since its really hot and starting to smell some burn, Also I think I should research first what is the design setting temperature to turn on the fan ?.. Does anybody knew the set up temperature was ??
 
I have the same setup. I'm a little apprehensive about the TuBliss setup but have put over 400 miles without a problem so far.
about 1000 km on the 2011 TE310 now, most done over a long weekend ride in the Kootenay Mountains of BC.
Not much to add to the above pros & cons and mods, except different rubber:
TuBliss system instead of tubes and a Pirelli MT43 Trials rear tire matched with a Pirelli Scorpion XCMH front.
With 7-psi in rear & 10-psi in front, this is a little goat, easily cruises up nasty rock & scree slopes that have others struggling.
 
Today I let my TE310 idle for about more than 10 minuteswith Ibeat monitor running, the temperature on the Ibeat screen reach 95 Degree C and the fan still not turn on !! (outside temp 25 degrees, 900 m above sea level). Reaching 95 then I stopped the engine,since its really hot and starting to smell some burn, Also I think I should research first what is the design setting temperature to turn on the fan ?.. Does anybody knew the set up temperature was ??
That.s about 203 F. which is about where I'd expect the fan to kick on, but I would let it go to 99 C which works to be about 210 F. Most auto electric fans operate around these temps. I check the shop manual and see if I can find the spec.
 
I think the 2011 T310 Oil drain Hose will be still a hot topic in the future. The problem no one sure what it does.

It's an oil return - the engine breather is also connected to the frame and any oil blown out of the breather is returned to the sump via the frame. The 310 has it, I assume because it 'breathes' heavily in comparison to the 250.

Dave
 
i have been looking around and dont see any info from owners and there 2011 310s
to all you 2011 te 310 owners tell all speek up about your 310 the good and the bad..what you have done to make it a better bike for you if any .......and any little tricks.. tips.. setup tips.. mods..that you can tell us that have worked for you and maybe pass it on to other 310 owners so we can enjoy this bike even more

thanks
H.B
i have 2011 te310,best bike ive had ,trail and track.60 hrs so far,you must re grease all linkage and swing arm bearings,head stock and long term bolts so they dont sieze.this includes brake disc bolts etc, if you plan to hang on to it for a while.i found fork action was to hard in the initial part of stroke,not having money to throw around i look at alternative to fix problem.i dropped oil and replaced with motul 2.5 weight .went to bike park here in NSW called louee.. rocky trails and god moto tracks. the difference was great, bike doesnt deflect of roots and rocks . much better ride..all clickers around half way out.had trouble with oil for clutch and now run lucas synthetic with stabilizer , changes every 500 to 600klms therfore cheaper,clutch no longer squeals when cold..the oil is the most important part of the bike as there isnt much, the top end is even quieter, this i think will help with all the components lasting longer.hope this helps..
 
It's an oil return - the engine breather is also connected to the frame and any oil blown out of the breather is returned to the sump via the frame. The 310 has it, I assume because it 'breathes' heavily in comparison to the 250.

Dave
i think its a breather hose due to engine size over 250, it will hold the moisture from engine[milky] colour, so on oil changes let it drip out. i found undoing the hose and pulling it off, than undoing the fitting with a ring spanner with ratchet op on it works the best, i use a triangle stand st bike lays on same side as plug..
 
My radiator fan is going back on, it's around 60(15c) here & I've boiled mine both rides, maybe not easy rides :), but boiled nonetheless. I thought it would be cool enough here I'd get way with it off.

The only thing I've broken/lost so far was the sump guard, the bike went over some decent logs during the day, I'll try a new one & cable tie it as well as the bolt, but I've wondering if that'll be enough, has anyone gone for an alloy sump guard & if so was it still attached with the single bolt ?.

The generator is really impressive, due to a leaving the key on overnight, my battery would not turn the motor early on this morning, but within 1/2 an hour of riding it was sweet & I used the e-start a few times.
 
The only thing I've broken/lost so far was the sump guard, the bike went over some decent logs during the day, I'll try a new one & cable tie it as well as the bolt, but I've wondering if that'll be enough, has anyone gone for an alloy sump guard & if so was it still attached with the single bolt ?.(quote)

I put a B&B one on when I bought the bike, the plastic one looked too flimsy, and it is held on with 2 bolts. Uses the original front/top bolt, and a plate that goes in near the oil drain and bolts up through that. About AU$170
 
I have 2011 310 I havent had the low down bog issue that has been posted on this site I have 1000 km on my now. I run the husky bash plate, covers the engine really well uses the original front bolt and then two rear bolts but you do need to drill two holes in the bottom frame bracket no big deal and it bolts up very secure. I aslo fitted red force accessories radiator guards they look good and good protection also fitted white plastics amd Meo sticker kit from husky accessories book as well as husky bar pad and red oil cap. I have found the best way to do the air cleaner is to remove the rear guard only 6 bolt and take the battery out you can then easly get it in and out and also allows the air box to be clean out well. I run the filter skin that came with my bike so I just remove it if it gets dirty out on a ride and then clean both when I have the bike back in the shed. I also do reliability trial so I eeded the horn to still work so I removed the original and fitted an after market one behind the head light the wire still reached easy and it now out of the way. On the oil drain i am looking at buying a new drain bolt cutting off the hose nipple and tap and 1/8 gas thread in it then screw a male 1/8 gas to -4 jic fitting in then I will fit a -4 jic end with 45 deg bend on the drain hose so you can remove the hose easily before removing the plug. I will let you all know how I go with this once I am done. I love the bike great to ride and plenty of power for me and suspension is perfect as I am about 76KG with gear so I am just playing with the clickers at present.
 
Are the TE310's maintainence heavy motors like the 450 & 510? What are the intervals for basics & how do you think they do as a commuter/play bike?
 
love my new little husqy... nothing i can tell ya'll that you dont already probably know.... 13/40 is tall for the woods... just put the 50 on the rear and will try it...also ordered a 48 and a 12 (surely should be able to find a nice DS combo that works well everywhere) i still have low miles (maybe 200 or so)...it feels like it's getting faster as it breaks in...mine was a demo with 2 hours and 20 miles on it ...it already had the power up done to it and remapped FI....my wheels need balanced... (just did my rear when I changed the sprocket...will feel it and then do the front....it seemed heavy on the rimlock side) I've owned ALOT of bikes...including many dirtbikes...i think this one is a "keeper" everything about it just Feels right... Oh ...except how it gets a little unstable at speeds over 70 (I wonder if a dampner would fix that ? )

I checked and found out I'm getting 45 MPG with the stock street gearing... Put the 50T rear on and Love the new gearing... am going to take it in the woods today (feels like it will be great)... on the street it's a little low ...will still reach 70 But the rpms are too high to sustain those speeds (9600-9800)... after a woods run...I might try a 48 rear and see if i can find a better compromise

I'm just finishing up some custom graphics that Are Blowing My Mind !!! Pics in a day or two...as I get the details knocked out... it'll be one of a kind ...for sure...

pics and new avatar coming soon.... I'm so glad I found this Brand, and this Bike, and this site... :cheers:
 
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