2011 Te 310 Owners Speek Up

[husky bom]

i have been looking around and dont see any info from owners and there 2011 310s
to all you 2011 te 310 owners tell all speek up about your 310 the good and the bad..what you have done to make it a better bike for you if any .......and any little tricks.. tips.. setup tips.. mods..that you can tell us that have worked for you and maybe pass it on to other 310 owners so we can enjoy this bike even more

thanks
H.B

 

[robertk61]

I have seen a fair bit of 310 info here before but here is my 2c worth.

Mine has Force rad guards, Bark Busters, B+B bash plate, Bridgestone 203/404 combo (the "stock tyres that came with it are crap) ultra HD tubes and a JD jetting FI tuner. the tuner works brilliantly and you can get rid of the low speed bog.

Also changed the front sprocket to a 14 with the std. 50 tooth rear as most of my riding is flowing trail type, not ST.

 

[Mikenc]

I have 60 hours of trail riding and some Mx track chasing my 10 year old son around the track. Only had problem I have had are 2 bad temp sensors – kind of a pain but minor issues. The maintenance (oil change & air filter) was difficult the first time but has become easy and quick. Get a open end ratchet wrench to take off the oil drain bolt – helps significantly dealing with the oil breather tube and allows you to get the drain bolt on and off quickly. As my son is going faster and faster I have noticed the suspension is very soft where you go through the stroke very quickly/easily – especially the front forks (I am 175 lbs w/stock springs) . On the forks I am at stock setting for rebound and 5 clicks harder on compression. It is still not great and will look into revalving. The EFI is generally good, I seem to be running a little lean and it bogs slightly (more when engine is very hot) when you really get on it quick. If I was racing I would look for an EFI fix but is it is fine for my needs. However, I would be interested in anybody that has changed the exhaust and updated the EFI map to improve performance – a know lot of folks have been happy with the results 2010 TE250. Other than that I am just having fun riding with my son.

 

[Volcano Island]

I recently have my 2011 TE310, now it had only 6 hours on it. I live in the mountaineous tropic region, 900 m above sea, 24-25 C. The bike is run well as expected but I know I need to sort out several things. The first thing there is a low end bog at around 2300-3000 rpm which really bothers in the tight stuff around here. I am getting I Beat to try to tune it. The suspension is not suited well for me (130lb), I may need a softer fork springs. One thing bother me, admittedly my bike have nothing as hard running yet, but the radiator fan never turn on !!, I need to check the water temperature sensor or fan motor individually. Change the oil once, and the drain plug oil breather hose in the way, its a pain. I was wondering the purpose of this hose running from the drain plug all theway to the top of frame ??. Return line from valve cover breather hose which also wen to the top of the frame ??. Is there oil in the frame like Yamaha WR series ??(i dont think so), To my understanding the 2010 TE250 do not have this setup. Can I use the TE 250 plug and remove the hose ?. Anybody done that ?

 

[DavidB]

I have about 150 miles on my 11 TE 310 . love it. All smog stuff off but did not change or mess with mapping. At 155 without gear the suspension is perfect. I have three rear sprockets and I am just going to use them as needed. With the 50 rear I don't plan to do much high speed desert riding here in so. Cal. I am going to use the 46 or 40. You can't have it all. A lightweight bike that does 80 and is good in the tight stuff. Hate the oil plug but I will deal with it.

 

[DG Harv Serv]

I have 011 TE310 almost 50 hours . Race Enduro in UK . No problems with Bike .

Bad Points :-

Oil Drain , not great but gets easier ! The hose returns Oil to Sump and is needed , so Im told .
Bigger Tank , Makes Air Filter / Spark Plug etc... harder to get to . Removal is a Pain (extra balance pipes etc...) This is to gain a litre I dont need !
Air Filter , not good on Battery Leads "hanging" Battery over side , also see above !

Mods :-

Leo Vince Tail Pipe and Race ECU .
Run co1 @ 95, co2 & 3 @ 100 , Tick over @ 1900 rpm . ( I have NO "BOG" bike runs 100% !).
Heavier Fork Springs ( Im 98 kgs ) . Suspension set up by SHMX here in the UK .
TM Designs Chain Guide , Husky ones are not great , but see 012 looks better ?
Meca Systems Sump Guard and Rad Braces .
Bark Buster Hand Guards.
Removal of L/H Switch Gear , Horn , Indicators and all other Road Crap !
Supersprox "Stealth" Sprockets . Std 13/50 Gearing .
Tidy wiring (cable ties , spiral wrap , heat tile). White Grease all connectors .

I think thats about it . Obviously it depends what you use bike for !

As I have posted before I think to many people try to turn these bikes into something they are not ! Then they complain !

If you want an Enduro Race Bike (what a TE310 is !) you will go a long way to find a better one !!!

 

[kiwitxc]

I've only had two rides & the first was just a brief blat around a mx track, coming off an '08 txc 250

All the smog stuff is gone.

Love:
- Handling, it really is very very nice.
- mid-range, real nice punch
- throttle response, almost 2/ in how easy it is to blip the throttle when you want a bit of lift off a whoop or over a branch.

Things to improve
- I don't have a bog as such, but off idle I'd like it to not be so on/off, I'm getting remapped at 5 hours & more exhaust work done, so will do it then.
- Kinda complicated with the bigger & cross over pipe, along with the oil breather going back into the sump via the frame, I'd love to know if that is necessary when you're always offroad.

All up, it's a bit of a work in progress, but I like it alot.

P.S. nice thread

 

[husky bom]

I have 011 TE310 almost 50 hours . Race Enduro in UK . No problems with Bike .

Bad Points :-

Oil Drain , not great but gets easier ! The hose returns Oil to Sump and is needed , so Im told .
Bigger Tank , Makes Air Filter / Spark Plug etc... harder to get to . Removal is a Pain (extra balance pipes etc...) This is to gain a litre I dont need !
Air Filter , not good on Battery Leads "hanging" Battery over side , also see above !

Mods :-

Leo Vince Tail Pipe and Race ECU .
Run co1 @ 95, co2 & 3 @ 100 , Tick over @ 1900 rpm . ( I have NO "BOG" bike runs 100% !).
Heavier Fork Springs ( Im 98 kgs ) . Suspension set up by SHMX here in the UK .
TM Designs Chain Guide , Husky ones are not great , but see 012 looks better ?
Meca Systems Sump Guard and Rad Braces .
Bark Buster Hand Guards.
Removal of L/H Switch Gear , Horn , Indicators and all other Road Crap !
Supersprox "Stealth" Sprockets . Std 13/50 Gearing .
Tidy wiring (cable ties , spiral wrap , heat tile). White Grease all connectors .

I think thats about it . Obviously it depends what you use bike for !

As I have posted before I think to many people try to turn these bikes into something they are not ! Then they complain !

If you want an Enduro Race Bike (what a TE310 is !) you will go a long way to find a better one !!!

ANOTHER RIDE AND BIKE IS GETTING BETTER

DG HARV SERV ...yes this it true about what you are saying about the 310 and as i haved owned a x-light 250 and now a x-light 310 NOTE...these motors need to be reved to get the best out of them and are best for bush riding racing not a road/dirt bike as thay are sold to be in the usa

my 2010 te250 was and i still think is one of the best single track 4t bikes out there...i hope the 310 proves me wrong .....once you sort out all the little problems that the stock 250 bike comes with...it took a bit to get right but when right nothing could come close to it in s/t

now the 2011 te310 it has aprox 120km on it now and yes it was the same as the 2010 250 in std form ie..tight engine and a bit more engine braking but should loosen up in time i hope as will need aprox 500km to brake in engine...has slight engine bog down low and is a bit jurky down low but i think it is because the engine is not broken in yet but not as bad as the 250.. the 310 TORQUE low to mid is 100% better than the 250.. i have now put a power commander v on the 310 and no bog at low rpm this has fixed the bog and power is very snappy and crisp now will lift front wheel in 1st 2nd 3rd with the blip of the throttle and will be good and get better when engine is run in.. a dyno run and tune soon will give me the perfect power curve...THANKS TO PFG HUSKY RACE TEAM.. for the help ....

suspension is a bit on the mushie/soft side in the forks but rear shock is better no spike on sharp edge or roots.. suspension workes better when pushed riden harder ..fork will work better for me with forks up through tri/clamps to 2nd ring bar raisers out so bars lower more direct feel and a oil change to 130 air gap 5w oil and clicker settings set at comp..11 clicks reb..8 clicks rear shock std settings.........i am 80kg geared up

gearing well std 13/50 gearing will never work for the type of riding i do and this gearing would be better suited to open fast racing/riding
12/51 is what i running atm and have found it great for very tight single track fast single track and technical stuff and yes gearing is very short and you have to ride the bike fast ie..be all over the bike not lazy but thats how i ride and you get the best out of these x-light motors when reved and pushed hard top end will max out at aprox 80 to 95 kph but 90kph on s/t is fast enough i think..LOL

oil changes and filter changes are a pain in the arss but what do you do just work with it
will do a heat shrink mod that DG HARV told me about on the oil drain hose
the 8.5l fuel tank is what is needed for the 310 i like this

now the bike stuff i have removed
all light/horn switch blocks
brake switchs/cables
speedo cable
stand
unused wire harness
all adr road stuff
works out to be aprox 2kg of crap that i removed

my tuff stuff bolt on
power commander v
12/51 gearing
my custom graphics
custom cut low seat
bark buster hand guards
alloy husky bash plate
metz mc5 front 100/90/21
metz mc5 rear 100/100/18

THESE ARE THE THINGS I HAVE DONE TO MY 310 THAT I HAVE LEARNT FROM MY X LIGHT 250 SO I HOPE SOME OF IT WILL MAYBE HELP ANOTHER 310 OWNER OUT AS I HAVE BEEN HELPED FROM A FEW 310 OWNERS ON HERE THANKS

now all im waiting on is for this engine to run in and loosen up and new dyno tune and just hope it will be better than the much loved 250 i had...yes i am a bit imptient to when it comes to getting the bike run in and right

thanks
H.B

 

[Mikenc]

Husky Born what is this ? "shrink mod that DG HARV told me about on the oil drain hose" On mine the mesh covering is starting coming a part on both ends.

 

[husky bom]

Husky Born what is this ? "shrink mod that DG HARV told me about on the oil drain hose" On mine the mesh covering is starting coming a part on both ends.

NOTE..i have not done this yet but will do it next oil change
yes it is to remove the oil drain hose remove old mesh covering and fit heat shrink from end to end and then refit with hose clamps over heat shrink hose

 

[DavidB]

What is purpose of heat shrink hose? Just added protection? What's wrong with mesh? Hate the setup but until someone comes up with fix I'll just curse through oil changes.

 

[DG Harv Serv]

NOTE..i have not done this yet but will do it next oil change
yes it is to remove the oil drain hose remove old mesh covering and fit heat shrink from end to end and then refit with hose clamps over heat shrink hose

I only put heat shrink on about 50 mm from end , over the top of the "freyed" mesh , then used Stainless Hose Clamp .

Still not ideal but not fighting with bits of "freyed" mesh getting around clamp and spanner !

 

[robertk61]

I just trimmed the mesh back a little, cleaned it up and melted it so it won't fray again.
I also agree its a pain to change the oil, I wish someone could come up with a "quick coupler" type thing like on the fuel tank hose?

 

[JasonfromMN]

I have an 11 TE 250 and must not have this. My oil changes are as easy as it gets. Does someone have any pics of what you guys have? Im interested.

 

[Mikenc]

 

[JasonfromMN]

If I'm orientated right, the black is the bottom of your engine and the hose is attached to your oil plug via a nipple or something. Reminds me of a similar system on a 07 yamaha wr250f I had.

If you loosened the clamp but not take it off(hose), then loosen the bolt, would the bolt spin out(of the engine)inside the hose? Too not have to remove it off the nipple just loosen and tighten the clamp.

Otherwise, I'd take some work but, would it be possible to convert the end to the type of bolt that is used on external engine oil return hoses(wish I could remember the name) that uses the washers on both sides with the bolt through the middle? You'd have to have just the right size on the matting surface and maybe change out the washers every so many oil changes but would prevent destroying the current hose end configuration. I suppose you have to find a used one that you could cut off the hose from the end peice and clamp your hose to just the metal tube part.

I can picture it in my head, probably dosnt sound right here though.....

 

[DG Harv Serv]

If I'm orientated right, the black is the bottom of your engine and the hose is attached to your oil plug via a nipple or something. Reminds me of a similar system on a 07 yamaha wr250f I had.

If you loosened the clamp but not take it off(hose), then loosen the bolt, would the bolt spin out(of the engine)inside the hose? Too not have to remove it off the nipple just loosen and tighten the clamp.

Otherwise, I'd take some work but, would it be possible to convert the end to the type of bolt that is used on external engine oil return hoses(wish I could remember the name) that uses the washers on both sides with the bolt through the middle? You'd have to have just the right size on the matting surface and maybe change out the washers every so many oil changes but would prevent destroying the current hose end configuration. I suppose you have to find a used one that you could cut off the hose from the end peice and clamp your hose to just the metal tube part.

I can picture it in my head, probably dosnt sound right here though.....

You are correct loosen the Hose Clip and undo the nipple with pipe still attached . It is tricky but not impossible !

I removed Hose and put shrink tube over the end too hold the freyed grey protector . Then put new better quality clip over the top .
Just makes it easier to undo clamp / nipple without all that freyed crap in the way !

I think you are refering to a "Banjo" Fitting . Whilst a good idea, I think it would put the hose at the wrong angle .

As normal space is very tight under there !

 

[Slowpoke]

I'm no engineer, but I wonder who the genius was that came up with that design?

If it was my bike, I think I'd look at plumbing in a T-fitting with an allan screw plug in the tee. Just have to take the allan screw out to dump the oil. You could set the tee at whatever angle works best.

 

[Phoenix]

Forgive my ignorance, but why is this hose present on the TE310 but not the TXC250? Aren't the engines mostly the same? That drain bolt is hard enough to get to without dealing with a hose at the same time!

 

[DavidB]

I am going to look for some kind of aircraft fitting with a T. The T is a good idea. If I do it I'll post the parts and pics. That hose scares me. If it cuts loose when I am 50 miles from nowhere then what? Call the wife on the sat phone of course!!!