• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

2011 SMS630 Initial Impressions III

016ms;115666 said:
Thanks Willie, I'll be taking it in for the first service in about 2 weeks and in the meantime I'll order the parts. Other than the lousy low RPM fueling the rest of the bike ROCKS!

If you just want to try it, the connector is the important one and is relatively cheap. The parts to block off the O2 port can be purchased far more cheaply elsewhere if you want. The Husky part is nice because it is already cross drilled for safety wire but is very expensive for what you get. Just FYI if you want to save some money. (You can also make your own O2 disable connector for a couple of bucks if you are handy and willing to rig something up yourself. There I would say the Husky part is worth it.)
 
willie;115858 said:
I would much rather keep the O2 sensor in place and have the FI tweaked to improve runability. I don't particularly care if Husqvarna gets raked over the coals for the f**kup. They should not release bikes until they run well AND meet emissions standards. Maybe there will be an update in the near future.
Totally agree with this. having the sensor's output in tack should allow for crisp response at zero to 10,000 feet elevations...its the whole idea behind EFI anyway.
 
Matt400;116356 said:
Totally agree with this. having the sensor's output in tack should allow for crisp response at zero to 10,000 feet elevations...its the whole idea behind EFI anyway.

With the seperate atmospheric pressure sensor, you don't need the lamda for that...No way is a stock TE/SM EVER gonna run better than a PUed one ANY PLACE..
 
016ms;115622 said:
Sorry guys but I just got back from the dealer and they once again said the 2011 SMS630 does NOT come with a power up kit. The TE 630 comes with a power up kit but there is nothing for the SMS 630. They did say that when I brought the bike in for the 600 mile service they would recalibrate the f.i. to the latest factory settings and the bike would run much better.
If there is a plug for for where the lambda sensor was connected please give me the part number as he was not aware of a plug specifically for the SMS model.

Thats one of the most clueless things I've ever heard about a Husky.. That would make me not trust that dealer at all.. a 630/610 TE/SM is the exact same motor.
 
LRPct;116401 said:
With the seperate atmospheric pressure sensor, you don't need the lamda for that...No way is a stock TE/SM EVER gonna run better than a PUed one ANY PLACE..
I didn't know they were using a map sensor like many auto's do. That's good for elevation changes but I still still think a lamda sensor reporting the A/F ratio could work very well as long as the software recognises where that ratio needs to be for optimum performance.
 
It really is night day between having the o2 sensor in and having it removed...no comparison....get that o2 sensor out ! The bike is fantastic with it removed! Great idle ...instant go and pull like a train from idle to the rev limiter.
 
Using the PU kit, you CAN just leave the lambda sensor in and strap the lead up where it can´t be seen. It´ll do no harm and camouflage the changes made. Over here it´d be a sensible precaution as the law´s quite strict.
 
Matt400;116403 said:
I didn't know they were using a map sensor like many auto's do. That's good for elevation changes but I still still think a lamda sensor reporting the A/F ratio could work very well as long as the software recognises where that ratio needs to be for optimum performance.

The only thing that leaving the lamda in for THESE bikes is good for is for MAYBE eventually burning holes through the piston from being so incredibly lean... Thats just the way it is these days to make fun, gutsy bikes still emissions and noise legal in ALL the places they are sold.. Just like the "old" days of jetting and such.. Stock isn't necersarrily "right".
 
Was just riding the bike on the freeway and felt a big lurch followed by a pulsating motion like the rear brake was grabbing ... turned out to be a sheared off rear sprocket bolt. The damage was 1 missing bolt, 1 bolt with no nut, a deep groove on the inside of the swingarm, and ALL the sprocket bolts were loose. 450 miles on the bike! I'm sure this will not be covered under warranty. WTF? I've raced desert, ridden to the tip of Baja, and ridden tens of thousands of street miles AND NEVER HAD THE SPROCKET BOLTS COME OUT.
Still waiting for the 600 mile service to install the pu kit so in the meantime I'll continue riding a bike that runs like crap.
 
I don't know if things work differently over there. But I would bloody well expect that to be covered by warranty. Give it a go, and keep us posted :thumbsup:

Oh yeah. My left side cover has melted to the pipe. Looks like the rubber knob thing fell off :doh:
 
016ms;120269 said:
Was just riding the bike on the freeway and felt a big lurch followed by a pulsating motion like the rear brake was grabbing ... turned out to be a sheared off rear sprocket bolt. The damage was 1 missing bolt, 1 bolt with no nut, a deep groove on the inside of the swingarm, and ALL the sprocket bolts were loose. 450 miles on the bike! I'm sure this will not be covered under warranty. WTF? I've raced desert, ridden to the tip of Baja, and ridden tens of thousands of street miles AND NEVER HAD THE SPROCKET BOLTS COME OUT.
Still waiting for the 600 mile service to install the pu kit so in the meantime I'll continue riding a bike that runs like crap.

Same thing happened to mine @ 500 km except no swingarm damage. Replaced and locktited poor quality locknuts. These nuts were checked when I first got the bike!
 
016ms;120269 said:
Was just riding the bike on the freeway and felt a big lurch followed by a pulsating motion like the rear brake was grabbing ... turned out to be a sheared off rear sprocket bolt. The damage was 1 missing bolt, 1 bolt with no nut, a deep groove on the inside of the swingarm, and ALL the sprocket bolts were loose. 450 miles on the bike! I'm sure this will not be covered under warranty. WTF? I've raced desert, ridden to the tip of Baja, and ridden tens of thousands of street miles AND NEVER HAD THE SPROCKET BOLTS COME OUT.
Still waiting for the 600 mile service to install the pu kit so in the meantime I'll continue riding a bike that runs like crap.

Considering that something very bad could have happened to you, I'd be raising a massive stink about this.
 
Sorry guys but I just got back from the dealer and they once again said the 2011 SMS630 does NOT come with a power up kit. The TE 630 comes with a power up kit but there is nothing for the SMS 630. They did say that when I brought the bike in for the 600 mile service they would recalibrate the f.i. to the latest factory settings and the bike would run much better.
If there is a plug for for where the lambda sensor was connected please give me the part number as he was not aware of a plug specifically for the SMS model.
what dealer is this? i had one tell me they already come "powered up" from the factory lol
 
I just want to verify something:

Can you disconnect the wire from the harness under the seat, and leave the lambda sensor in, without purchasing the rest of the P/U kit, and notice an improvement/not harm the engine?

I would also like to remove the "baffle" that is in the airbox as soon as possible as well.

I purchased the P/U kit with the bike, but the dealer was out of stock, and should have one early next week. I use this bike for commuting and am dreadfully fearful of running the bike lean, especially during break-in period.
 
I left the sensor in place instead of using the plug. It wont do the sensor much good but it´d be just too easy to spot that the bike´s been tampered with in case I´m stopped and the police give the bike a once over. The sensor lead is zip tied to the frame under the saddle.
 
I just want to verify something:

Can you disconnect the wire from the harness under the seat, and leave the lambda sensor in, without purchasing the rest of the P/U kit, and notice an improvement/not harm the engine?

I would also like to remove the "baffle" that is in the airbox as soon as possible as well.

I purchased the P/U kit with the bike, but the dealer was out of stock, and should have one early next week. I use this bike for commuting and am dreadfully fearful of running the bike lean, especially during break-in period.

No danger of running the bike too lean with the lamda sensor hooked up. The sensor will trim the mixture to meet emissions but will not be lean enough to damage engine. It will just run crappy. You can unplug the sensor and the fuel injection will revert to a rich mixture map and run better but the neutral will flash indicating FI problem.
 
No danger of running the bike too lean with the lamda sensor hooked up. The sensor will trim the mixture to meet emissions but will not be lean enough to damage engine. It will just run crappy. You can unplug the sensor and the fuel injection will revert to a rich mixture map and run better but the neutral will flash indicating FI problem.

ok, so the resistor/jumper in the kit is just to fool the ECU into thinking that the sensor is still hooked up, so as not to allow the neutral to flash......correct?

(thanks for the quick replies fellas!)
 
ok, so the resistor/jumper in the kit is just to fool the ECU into thinking that the sensor is still hooked up, so as not to allow the neutral to flash......correct?

(thanks for the quick replies fellas!)
I believe the point of the resistor / jumper was to tell the ECU to use the Powered up map. Sensor in or out really does not matter. I'm not really sure about the neutral, or any other indicators though.

At least that is what I recall.
 
I believe the point of the resistor / jumper was to tell the ECU to use the Powered up map. Sensor in or out really does not matter. I'm not really sure about the neutral, or any other indicators though.

At least that is what I recall.

So there is the stock (lambda) map, the un-plugged, richer mixture map, and then with the P/U resistor, there is a "Powered up" map?

Maybe I'm not being clear.

I don't have possession of the P/U kit yet, I want to unplug the Lambda sensor wire, leave the sensor in the exhaust, and run the bike like that. From what I'm getting here, is that with the wire unplugged, the ECU will revert to a richer map, but will flash the neutral light indicating an FI error.

When the dealer gets the P/U kit to me, I will then plug the jumper into the harness, remove the actual sensor from the exhaust, and then I will have a "powered up" map.

Thanks for being patient, but I'd rather be safe than sorry, I have a 30mile commute each way to work, and I'd rather not blow up my new bike because of a miscommunication. I just can't ride the bike with this stuttering off/on throttle nonsense, dealing with a lot of intersections/traffic it's actually quite dangerous.
 
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