• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc 2010 WR 300, Sachs shock.

Marvin Fredrich

Husqvarna
C Class
Being it that the husky manual has less information than a stick of gum wrapper. What's the easiest way to remove the Sachs shock? I haven't tried yet and I would like the info before I damage or start swearing, lol.
 
Remove the subframe, remove the bottom shock bolt, remove the top shock bolt and remove shock. I take the subframe out with the airbox intact, and put a surgical glove over the open part of the carb and one on the airbox opening where it attaches to the carb.

I put the bike on a stand when doing this and put something under the rear wheel to keep it from drooping after the shock is removed.
 
Remove the subframe, remove the bottom shock bolt, remove the top shock bolt and remove shock. I take the subframe out with the airbox intact, and put a surgical glove over the open part of the carb and one on the airbox opening where it attaches to the carb.

I put the bike on a stand when doing this and put something under the rear wheel to keep it from drooping after the shock is removed.
Thank You very much, I appreciate the quick reply.
 
Being it that the husky manual has less information than a stick of gum wrapper. What's the easiest way to remove the Sachs shock? I haven't tried yet and I would like the info before I damage or start swearing, lol.
i took mine out to get serviced(waste of time!) and replace bearings without removing swingarm or subframe, it will come out with right angle easy as. just remove bolts & linkage/tie rod(cant remember if i took pipe off or not-either way 2 minute job!). check/grease all bearings/bushings while youre at it. my swingarm bearings were rusted solid in less than a year. not cheap and a pain in the arse to do so preventative maintenance is the go! im over the sachs shock-a real achilles heel for the bike. ditch it husky, KYB please!
 
i took mine out to get serviced(waste of time!) and replace bearings without removing swingarm or subframe, it will come out with right angle easy as. just remove bolts & linkage/tie rod(cant remember if i took pipe off or not-either way 2 minute job!). check/grease all bearings/bushings while youre at it. my swingarm bearings were rusted solid in less than a year. not cheap and a pain in the arse to do so preventative maintenance is the go! im over the sachs shock-a real achilles heel for the bike. ditch it husky, KYB please!

Why was servicing your shock a waste of time? If you had that a year on it (assuming you ride regularly) then you should have noticed a difference right away with fresh oil and seals. If not you either aren't at a level where you can recognize it yet, or the guy who serviced it doesn't know what he's doing (or did nothing).

There is nothing wrong with the Sachs shock. Like any bike it needs to be tuned to your terrain/skill level. I doubt even an above average rider would notice the difference between different brands of shocks, all set up the same.
 
Why was servicing your shock a waste of time? If you had that a year on it (assuming you ride regularly) then you should have noticed a difference right away with fresh oil and seals. If not you either aren't at a level where you can recognize it yet, or the guy who serviced it doesn't know what he's doing (or did nothing).

There is nothing wrong with the Sachs shock. Like any bike it needs to be tuned to your terrain/skill level. I doubt even an above average rider would notice the difference between different brands of shocks, all set up the same.
i shouldnt have said waste of time but the well known suspension mob that serviced it probably should have known what the problem was when i described too them in detail when & what it was doin(basically pogo sticking when it gets hot on rough/bumpy terrain!). they serviced it-new gas/oil/seals etc which was best part of $300 with postage & told me everything was still ok-no leaks/gas ok but never really gave me any reasons why it was doing what it was doing, just sent it back. has heavier spring in it, preload & clicker adjustment only. im no suspension guru by any means but after speaking to a fellow cafe husky member he picked it straight away(piston type gets too hot-bladder type the go apparently). did feel better/new feeling again when i put it back in the bike but i also replaced all bearings/bushes/seals at the same time so that had a fair impact also. pogo'd first ride after service. if i pour water on it to cool it down its fine again otherwaise ive gotta wait 10-15mins cause its just plain dangerous to ride with! ive had showa & kyb shocks on previous bikes and never had a drama(preload & clicker adjustment only). dont get em serviced unless theyre weeping oil or doin something drastically wrong, generally only keep my bikes for 2 years max so if i can get away without servicing em i will. same for forks, wait till seals start leaking before servicing. i dont race & im definitely no gun rider but i know what i like. o/c kyb forks have been great, still on original seals-will respring when seals finally let go(seal savers seem to be working!). dont see too many pros running sachs, even huskys moved away from em on the te's. the wr's always neglected & last to get the improvements(gasgas ditched em too finally-their achilles heel!). just dont like riding knowing if i hit some fast/rough stuff the shock might play up & send me flying over the bars. want peace of mind & reliability first and foremost
 
I waited til my fork seals were leaking to change the oil, one full season. This year I will probably do it midseason because of the dramatic difference in performance. My fork oil was worthless and I had no idea. I would definitely recommend it if you put a lot of hours in.

As far as the pogo stick, I haven't had the issue but it's been well documented and from what I've heard this guy knows how to fix it:

http://lt-racing.com/html/sachssuspension_topics.html
 
I waited til my fork seals were leaking to change the oil, one full season. This year I will probably do it midseason because of the dramatic difference in performance. My fork oil was worthless and I had no idea. I would definitely recommend it if you put a lot of hours in.

As far as the pogo stick, I haven't had the issue but it's been well documented and from what I've heard this guy knows how to fix it:

http://lt-racing.com/html/sachssuspension_topics.html
cheers ill check it out mate
 
I waited til my fork seals were leaking to change the oil, one full season. This year I will probably do it midseason because of the dramatic difference in performance. My fork oil was worthless and I had no idea. I would definitely recommend it if you put a lot of hours in.

As far as the pogo stick, I haven't had the issue but it's been well documented and from what I've heard this guy knows how to fix it:

http://lt-racing.com/html/sachssuspension_topics.html
acme dont spose you if theres a bladder type conversion kit available for the sachs shock to replace piston type(im talking completely out of school here but i have seen them available for some ktm models!). im gonna talk to a coupla suspension mobs soon & take the info you passed on from ltr, hopefully i can get it sorted reasonably cheap. dont feeel like spending $1000 on a new shock! cheers
 
There is a conversion for a bladder over here in the UK
I was talking to the guy who does them son last week and he said the sachs works just as well as his ohlins when his dad has sorted them and also said he only charges £60 or $88.41 for the work so there must be someone over there that can do it
 
There is a conversion for a bladder over here in the UK
I was talking to the guy who does them son last week and he said the sachs works just as well as his ohlins when his dad has sorted them and also said he only charges £60 or $88.41 for the work so there must be someone over there that can do it
im hoping so johnnyboy & at that price!:)
 
Drew Smith converted my shock's piston to a bladder when he revalved it. Maybe talk to him; I was very happy with his work and his customer support.
 
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