• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

125-200cc 2010 wr 250 Where does the upgrading start -- Best bang for the $

R

Rich DiMauro

Husqvarna
B Class
2010 wr 250 runs great ..mostly woods riding --- Have the stock carb {tmx } havent messed with the jetting {yet} bike always starts up first or second kick hot or cold... I think it runs good but maybe i don't know what im missing without a lectron or mikuni ???

Bottom end is decent no bogs but i would like a little more 4 stroke pull out of it before it comes on the pipe .its not horrible but a little more would make me :applause: . It has a aggressive semi tractable hit when it fully comes on the pipe esp with {13.50 gearing}... mid is nice and very responsive,,,, top end is lacking a bit, it will rev through but not the same as mid ... not sure if thats the bike design - the stock pipe? or bad carb settings,,

Gearing was 13/50 very punchy,, 1st is low 2 is good and 3rd is a little tall except for faster woods

changed it to 14/50 more traction , 1st was low enough for anything i through at it...power a little more mellowed and tractionable and barely used 3rd in the woods, i liked this gearing because of less shifting, and faster because of more traction but if i could get a little more bottom that would be awesome... also running a 110/100/18 mt16 with is a biller taller tire

I know the stock carb isnt the best, jetting could prob be better? I dont know how much $ i want to throw at this carb.. ill prob pull it off this week to see what in there for a starting point, some other jets and needle's came with the bike ...
I think these motors run a little lower compression, more compression =equals more bottom or more hit?
Stock exhaust and silencer,, silencer could use a repacking im sure...

Where to start???
 
Im sorry i left that out -- the forks and rear shock were revalved before i got it.. by WER suspension out of nj....
This lectron carb is interesting to me...... Esp since it doesnt have to go with the bike if i sold it...I sure wouldnt miss any jets, needles, or slides....
 
I rode a WR165 last week with that carb. Unless it gets a lot better with adjustment, (which we are trying tomorrow), it isn't all that IMO. I've been following the Smart Carb too, sounds like it might be better still but if it is actually worth it IDK.
 
Rich DiMauro said:
2010 wr 250 runs great ..mostly woods riding --- Have the stock carb {tmx } havent messed with the jetting {yet} bike always starts up first or second kick hot or cold... I think it runs good but maybe i don't know what im missing without a lectron or mikuni ???

Bottom end is decent no bogs but i would like a little more 4 stroke pull out of it before it comes on the pipe .its not horrible but a little more would make me :applause: . It has a aggressive semi tractable hit when it fully comes on the pipe esp with {13.50 gearing}... mid is nice and very responsive,,,, top end is lacking a bit, it will rev through but not the same as mid ... not sure if thats the bike design - the stock pipe? or bad carb settings,,

Gearing was 13/50 very punchy,, 1st is low 2 is good and 3rd is a little tall except for faster woods

changed it to 14/50 more traction , 1st was low enough for anything i through at it...power a little more mellowed and tractionable and barely used 3rd in the woods, i liked this gearing because of less shifting, and faster because of more traction but if i could get a little more bottom that would be awesome... also running a 110/100/18 mt16 with is a biller taller tire

I know the stock carb isnt the best, jetting could prob be better? I dont know how much $ i want to throw at this carb.. ill prob pull it off this week to see what in there for a starting point, some other jets and needle's came with the bike ...
I think these motors run a little lower compression, more compression =equals more bottom or more hit?
Stock exhaust and silencer,, silencer could use a repacking im sure...

Where to start???
Click to expand...
Lectron carb,,then go from there!!
 
Maybe try the jd kit for the mikuni or go for the pwk. I'm not sold on the lectron just yet. Jetting the bike correctly will give you more power. once you get that right you could allways drop the head off to a reputable shop and have them set the squish and reshape the dome.usually cost around $75 to do that,the head mod on any 250 this is the best bank for the buck. imo
 
Personally myself suspension,then carb.-jetting,good tires,exhaust,misc.cables hard parts.lectron for myself screamed yesterday in tight woods,pj 3/4 out 75 degree 800 ft elevation measuring rod leaned 1/2 turn lean from factory
 
For more low end the stock head can be modified for more compression, I had this done. An FMF Gnarly and powercore silencer will give you a stronger pull up top. I am running the stock carb on my bike, and it's fine.
 
Suspension has been revalved by WER , a little soft but seems good for the woods , other than the fork seals that need to be replaced, starting to leak a little,,,, Have to say I think the stock carb at this point is decent (no hot start issues , makes good power just wondered if I didn't know what it ( should feel like) ----- Between the older Honda cr 250's and these bikes everyone complains how crappy the tmx carbs are are with no bottom , and most have swapped for a pwk... I honestly wouldnt spend the money on the jd kit for the stocker id rather a lectron or pwk with jd kit installed, not sure how the stock pipe and big silencer rate compared to a knarly , and I'm sure a little more compression would liven things up... The bikes a weekend warrior for me no racing , although I might do an enduro or 2 -
 
Let me re-phrase that.... Suspension that's set up for your weight & riding style/terrain. Carb first then get the suspension.
 
If you like the way your suspension has been done, then your carb is next. IMO
If you have the TMXX, the JD kit is about 95$, and the RB Designs mods are around 175$+ shipping to and from, or buy a Lectron for 330$ with shipping. I only have one bike (165) with a Lectron, but would like to try one on the 250. Problem is I have way over 400$ in my PWK and it runs good. Wanna make an offer on it? haha..:)
 
auto clutch maybe a nice mod?

The clutch pull on my bike is a 1 finger affair so I don't really see the point in having one on a small bore

yet a lot of guys feel its a good mod for a woods bike

Robert-Jan
 
The suspension was setup for the guy before me, for new England style rocks an roots etc.. which is mainly what i ride... and he didnt weigh much more than me so it should be fairly close...... have to say in the woods it seems very good... little soft for much more than that..{def no track}...... The tractionable lugability as the way the bike sits is pretty impressive , it will run down to almost nothing and wont stall out .I suprised myself and rode a gear higher than i should and it kept on going where most bikes would puke out if not on the pipe. It just takes a little longer than I would like to come back to life ... im assuming this carb isnt perfectly jetted because the guy used the factory jets and needles,, so on this carbs good day how would it compare to a pwk or lectron?

I had an 04 rm 250 before this that was setup for the woods with a reckluse.. {prob should have kept it} This bike would wheelie off idle 1st 2nd and basically 3rd no clutch 5th it would power wheelie with throttle but yet still was geared 65-70 ish it had alot of grunt,, the whole powerband was snotty. Wasnt like a light switch and was very crisp.. never got a chance to ride it much in the woods,, I wanted something with a good stator output that i could put serious leds on if i wanted and a street legal plate and So here i am with the wr... gotta say the motor on this bike is damn impressive so would like a little more bottom and some over rev out of mid .. but it seems to work good the way it is... the guys i ride with arent all to familiar with the husky but they have all made comments like that bike has some motor huh or that bike has more motor in it than mine... .... it prob help's im at most 160lbs with gear and camel pack .... I love the fact that i can ride this bike hard 40 miles and be good to go... my wr450 would kick my ass, i would get tired and sloppy.. must have something to do with rotating weight
 
Motorsportz --- ive followed some of the post's but.........
Whats up with those pretty lectrons, If i were to order one from you whats the turn around time to ny? 36mm vs 38mm im mostly woods riding,, cost shipped? im about done with jets and needles and nozzles slide etc. etc. etc. Plus if the carb does what its suppost to when setup right itll pay for itself at some point in gas mileage, mufffler packing may not be wasted so soon due to excessive spooge, and powervalve would prob have alot less deposit's! And the stocker can return to the bike when i sell it.. Ive read it has less of a "hit" its actually not slower but just has a somether transition between fuel circuits?
 
Rich DiMauro said:
Motorsportz --- ive followed some of the post's but.........
Whats up with those pretty lectrons, If i were to order one from you whats the turn around time to ny? 36mm vs 38mm im mostly woods riding,, cost shipped? im about done with jets and needles and nozzles slide etc. etc. etc. Plus if the carb does what its suppost to when setup right itll pay for itself at some point in gas mileage, mufffler packing may not be wasted so soon due to excessive spooge, and powervalve would prob have alot less deposit's! And the stocker can return to the bike when i sell it.. Ive read it has less of a "hit" its actually not slower but just has a somether transition between fuel circuits?
Click to expand...

Yep pretty much what you say there. I want to say though I think some people are buying these thinking it is some magical device, it is still a carb, still needs some tuning etc. I have sold over 75 of these and 98% seems very happy, a few just don't think it is a big improvement. what I like is no jets to clog or mess with, runs really smooth and linear bottom to top, is EZ to adjust and tune, Throttle response, consistency in running, better MPG (I am getting 4-6 MPG better on my 165), support, simplicity, etc. I personally have no desire to ever run a standard carb again. I would suggest the 38 for a 250/300 given the feedback from customers. Usually ships the day after you order it. Let me know if interested or need more info.

thanks
 
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