2010 TE250 bogs on closed throttle, stalls and is then hard to start. Any ideas?

[rlight]

Hi guys,

Need to pick your brains. Got on my bike for a ride today, idled no prob, warmed it up for a minute, hopped on and blasted off up the rd. got to the top of the hill, doing abt 60 mph in 6th, kicked it down to 5th and it lost drive, bogged down and died. Then hard to start and when it fired it would not idle and kept dying. It was also backfiring while I was trying to start it. Eventually got it home and let it cool down. The process then repeated, idled ok, took off up the hill, died, hard to start.

FYI, it has a rekluse auto clutch, akropovic full system, jd tuner and I have previously had no idling / stalling issues. Idle speed is around 1900 - 2000 rpm in N then abt 1800 in first while stopped on the auto clutch.

I recently had the hot start lever stick on and keep the revs up at abt 4300, but pulled it out of the throttle body, cleaned it and it works like a charm now.

The previous owner had been running it with no gasket in the tank lid, so I just replaced that.

I also changed the counter sprocket to a 12T.

I filled it up with premium gas, but being Indonesian gas I thought it might have "gone off" after abt 3 months in the can.

Valve lash checked abt 3 hrs ago and right in the middle of the range.

I plan to drain the fuel, refill with fresh fuel, re-check the hot start piston in the Throttle Body and re-adjust the rekluse bite pt (3marks out at the moment). Bike has abt 2000km on it.
Any other ideas what it could be?

Thanks,

Rich

 

[Phoenix]

The previous owner had been running it with no gasket in the tank lid, so I just replaced that.

Is that thing seated up in there nice and flush with the top of the cap? I've found out from experience that carelessly shoving it in there will cause the bike to have some bizarre symptoms like cutting out, backfiring, etc. I always make sure that the edges of the gasket are poked up under the top most thread. When mine had the problem, gas was also belching out from the cap no matter how tight I screwed it on.

 

[duggoey]

+1 Phoenix - I have seen these symptoms due to no relief air getting into the tank, that can cause it to start ok but stall after running for a few minutes once there becomes a vacuum in the tank. Check the "gasket" and make sure the breather vent and hose isnt full of crap (or make sure there even is a breather especially if the previous owner removed things).

Saying that it could be anything, may need to check all basics: spark, earthing problems, fuel quality etc.

 

[Indorider]

Yeah Rich. If it just started after you added the gasket I'd bet that's the problem. How're you liking the 12t? I added one not too long ago and really made mine nice in the tight stuff. Hope you get her sorted...

 

[rlight]

Thanks guys. New cap, breather and gasket, it was seated properly. Dumped the old fuel and put fresh fuel in and she started up and ran fine. Also noticed the negative battery terminal was loose.

Still prone to stall once in a while, but I re-adjusted the rekluse and it seems fine.

Now a new problem cropped up. Starter button won't work..... Pump is on, dash is on, but starter button is dead. It will kickstart no worries. I jiggled the wires on the solenoid starter and it fired up. Let them go and the starter won't turn. All fuses are fine. I pulled the connectors out of the block, tightened the spades and she still does the same thing. Has anyone had this issue? What is the black thing jumpered between the green and white wires? Is it a resistor or capacitor? What should the reading be on it?

Indorider - I was running out on my first ride after changing to the 12 T, so haven't had enough distance to judge yet because of these gremlins.

 

[Indorider]

Saw this thread yesterday- http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/e-start-button-not-working-before-u-tear-it-apart….28223/

 

[duggoey]

Thanks guys. New cap, breather and gasket, it was seated properly. Dumped the old fuel and put fresh fuel in and she started up and ran fine. Also noticed the negative battery terminal was loose.

Still prone to stall once in a while, but I re-adjusted the rekluse and it seems fine.

Now a new problem cropped up. Starter button won't work..... Pump is on, dash is on, but starter button is dead. It will kickstart no worries. I jiggled the wires on the solenoid starter and it fired up. Let them go and the starter won't turn. All fuses are fine. I pulled the connectors out of the block, tightened the spades and she still does the same thing. Has anyone had this issue? What is the black thing jumpered between the green and white wires? Is it a resistor or capacitor? What should the reading be on it?

Indorider - I was running out on my first ride after changing to the 12 T, so haven't had enough distance to judge yet because of these gremlins.

Mine did that when the clutch lever sensor cable got disconnected. Electric start wont operate without that signal even if kick starting does.

 

[Phoenix]

Thanks guys. New cap, breather and gasket, it was seated properly. Dumped the old fuel and put fresh fuel in and she started up and ran fine. Also noticed the negative battery terminal was loose.

Still prone to stall once in a while, but I re-adjusted the rekluse and it seems fine.

Now a new problem cropped up. Starter button won't work..... Pump is on, dash is on, but starter button is dead. It will kickstart no worries. I jiggled the wires on the solenoid starter and it fired up. Let them go and the starter won't turn. All fuses are fine. I pulled the connectors out of the block, tightened the spades and she still does the same thing. Has anyone had this issue? What is the black thing jumpered between the green and white wires? Is it a resistor or capacitor? What should the reading be on it?

Indorider - I was running out on my first ride after changing to the 12 T, so haven't had enough distance to judge yet because of these gremlins.

My starter relay went dead last ride and I had to replace it. Fuses were good. Relay would just click. Inserted spare relay and I had my button again. Glad you got the other problem worked out.

 

[rlight]

Duggoey, thanks for the tip. However, no joy. Clutch sensor cable is good.

When I jiggle the 4 wire going into the connector the solenoid clicks and it will sometimes kick over. Only when you bend the wires towards the outside of the starter solenoid, doesn't engage if you jiggle the solenoid itself, so must be something in the connector block.....

I pulled the connectors out of the block and the wires into them are good.

What is the black thing between the green and grey wires? Is it a fusible link? I get no continuity and open resistance readings across it.....