2010 TE 510 Overheating!

[danbartol]

My new 2010 TE 510 has been running really hot and overheating when running on anything more than open roads.

This past weekend it even blew the 2010 OEM upgraded coolant hose. It split right in the middle of the factory rubber Y leaving me stranded in the mountains. It was an cool (65F) overcast day w/ a bit of drizzle at 10,000ft (Taylor Park Colorado).

I recently noticed that the coolant overflow cap has been splattering coolant all over the engine on rides. I looked at the cap and it seems to be in good shape. The little silicone flapper is in there and is operable.


TE-510 Set up
New 2010 model
1050 miles
Valves in Speck
Power-p Kit
PC-V w/ Auto tune set for 13.2 AFR
FMF Q - Exhaust w/ spark arrestor and quite insert
Running full synthetic Silkolene 15-50 oil
Clean Air Filter

Any ideas on what the issue might be? Do I need to run a fatter AFR?

Obviously the next step will be some proper silicone coolant hoses w/ and aluminum Y and a higher pressure radiator cap.


On a side not I have also been having issues w/ starting the bike when hot. On two recent occasions I have turned off the bike after a difficult single tract section to allow it to cool off and when I have gone to start the bike it refused to start.

It would turn over and act like it was firing, but would never catch. Bot time it took almost TWO HOURS before it would start. Then all of a sudden it would just fire up and run fine.

 

[danbartol]

2010 TE-510 Won't Start When Hot!

This bike has always been difficult to start when hot, but recently it has become a real problem.

On two recent occasions I have turned the bike off when it was overheating after a difficult single track hill climb and have not been able to turn it back on.

The bike turns over, but will not fire. Typically I end up killing the battery trying to start it then spend the rest of the time kicking it over. After a long time 1 - 1.5 hrs the bike begins to fire, but will only roughly idle for a few seconds and will not take any throttle. Eventually after even more time the bike fire and runs perfectly w/ no issues at all as if nothing ever happened.

Any ideas on what the issue might be, it really sucks being stranded in the mountains for several hour not knowing if the bike will ever start again.

This issue is driving me crazy and has seriously undermined my trust in the bike.

Doing some trail side trouble shooting I have found I have spark, the fuel pump is working, there is no vapor lock of the fual tank.


TE-510 Set up
New 2010 model
1050 miles
Valves in Speck
Power-up Kit
PC-V w/ Auto tune set for 13.2 AFR
FMF Q - Exhaust w/ spark arrestor and quite insert
Running full synthetic Silkolene 15-50 oil
Clean Air Filter

The bike has been running unusually hot lately!

 

[ioneater]

That stinks. Things I would look at would be rad cap, water pump impeller security and possibly a coolant temp sensor? Or, execute the George option and probably have it narrowed down in a day. Hope you get 'er figured out. Fun to read your experiences over there in the Rockies!

 

[A.Breton]

If you have spark, and the pump is priming the injector, then that would leave with a fuel delivery problem, either
A: injector is not pulsing, or
B: very incorrect fuel amount is being injected.

Is the plug wet w/ fuel after cranking over for a while? That would atleast tell you if the injector is being pulsed.

Also how hard is it to take the PCV out of the loop, and try running on stock ecm alone. When ever I have a intermittent problem I don't always look for whats wrong/bad but look to see what is working correctly/good.

I've run into few problems with my bike (08 Te450) and water, due to wiring harness connectors not being weather proof. I have a few pins that have become corroded in mulitple connectors. Something to also look at while you have it turn down in diagnoises of you problem.

 

[danbartol]

Thanks Breton,

Great trouble shooting tips.

The plug is moist when removed after attempting to start the bike.

As you mention I suspect something to do w/ the fuel delivery, possibly associated w/ the CP-V and Auto tune. It's almost as if when the bike gets shut down hot or flames out the PC or Auto tune gets confused and tries to force one setting while a different set of conditions exist.

Disabling the CP is the next step, but a bit of a pain that is was trying to avoid since I have it nicely wired and zipptied allover the bike.

I'm also not too fond of how all the wiring of the bike is extremely exposed to the elements. I did have the bike die on me after splashing through a shallow creek that same day. What the heck, it is an enduro bike after all? Luckily it fired up right away.

Also while searching around I found mention of bad temperature sensors affecting Hot Starting. Anyone know anything about this.

Shuff like this makes me wish I had gotten the KTM instead!

 

[Maybroda345]

My new 2010 TE 510 has been running really hot and overheating when running on anything more than open roads.

This past weekend it even blew the 2010 OEM upgraded coolant hose. It split right in the middle of the factory rubber Y leaving me stranded in the mountains. It was an cool (65F) overcast day w/ a bit of drizzle at 10,000ft (Taylor Park Colorado).

I recently noticed that the coolant overflow cap has been splattering coolant all over the engine on rides. I looked at the cap and it seems to be in good shape. The little silicone flapper is in there and is operable.


TE-510 Set up
New 2010 model
1050 miles
Valves in Speck
Power-p Kit
PC-V w/ Auto tune set for 13.2 AFR
FMF Q - Exhaust w/ spark arrestor and quite insert
Running full synthetic Silkolene 15-50 oil
Clean Air Filter

Any ideas on what the issue might be? Do I need to run a fatter AFR?

Obviously the next step will be some proper silicone coolant hoses w/ and aluminum Y and a higher pressure radiator cap.


On a side not I have also been having issues w/ starting the bike when hot. On two recent occasions I have turned off the bike after a difficult single tract section to allow it to cool off and when I have gone to start the bike it refused to start.

It would turn over and act like it was firing, but would never catch. Bot time it took almost TWO HOURS before it would start. Then all of a sudden it would just fire up and run fine.

Here is what I have done. I have a 05 tc 450 which I race offroad (hare scrambles) I riiun evbans coolant (waterless) I run cool to cool in the engine oil. Aftermarket skid plates usuallyt trap a ton of heat so I would stick with the stocker. I also just ordered from Halls Husqvarna the high flo impellar and housing for like 40.00. My bike runs much much cooler and I am a clutch abuser. The other issue is that if the bike is overheating and you are having serious trouble starting it it may be too rich. The bike can run hot from being overly rich as well. Hope this helps. My bike is carbuerated and I went from a 50 pilot to a 45 and the bike starts evertime first kick even when hot where it would with the richer jetting.

 

[Coffee]

I would:

1. Check the water pump impeller to make sure everything is ok with it.
2. Remove the PC V & Auto tune completely just to keep things simple & isolated. You don't have to remove it completely from the bike, just be sure the injector connector from the harness connects to the injector without going through the PCV. Although it would be good to also remove the lambda sensor, insert the plug, and electrically disconnect the dynojet products.
3. Hook up to ibeat and be sure the temp sensor is operating 'ok'. If the bike is cold it should be cold and as the engine warms it should reflect that. If the sensor is bad it should be pretty obvious, some have 'jumped' from cold to hot really quick.

 

[robertaccio]

do you have OEM rad louvers? curious.

I am mostly the same as above, HD hoses, 1.8 cap, Evans non-aqueous, enduro engineering rad guards with oem louvers.

 

[HUSKYnXJnWI]

Water temp sensor. $10.

Ibeat will read incorrect temps- making it obvious-

I would unplug the sensor (electrically) left side of cylinder near ACCT- when it is HOT and won't start- if it starts up better- there's your problem- order it up.

At some point- I plan to check the resistance in ohms when hot and cold- to give a normal operating range- even though I can check with Ibeat. I don't have any problems but ordered a spare because it has started to become a common enough occurrence for them to fail.

 

[glangston]

What kind of plate are you running?

I'd get the Uptite Y and the new High Flow Impeller for sure. Is the fan running?

 

[Coffee]

I would unplug the sensor (electrically) left side of cylinder near ACCT- when it is HOT and won't start- if it starts up better- there's your problem- order it up.

Have you actually done that? Removed the temp sensor from the circuit and try to start an efi bike when it was hot?

I would do the experiment, but I don't have an efi bike

 

[danbartol]

The bike is EFI and is set via the CP-V to run a 13.2 AFR. So it should adjust to these parameters automatically.

I'm running a set of OFG Radiator braces w/ the stock louvers.

The bike is an 2010 so it should come w/ the high flow coolant pump as stock.

The fan and the Impeller both run.

 

[danbartol]

What kind of plate are you running?

 

[danbartol]

Aftermarket skid plates usually trap a ton of heat so I would stick with the stocker.

I'm running an Uptite aluminum skid plate, the bike would not last a day w/ the OEM one here in the rocky mountains!

 

[danbartol]

This is no way to end a nice day of riding:

Because of this:

 

[danbartol]

Here is how it's set up:

 

[danbartol]

Don't wanna do this anymore:

 

[Coffee]

Can I assume this is a recent problem?

Over heating in 65F degrees on an open road is a bit abnormal.

 

[danbartol]

The bike has always run a bit hot in my opinion, but the issue had gotten worst lately!

 

[danbartol]

Can I assume this is a recent problem?

Over heating in 65F degrees on an open road is a bit abnormal.

On the open road it's OK, the fan does still run occasionally, on the single track it was boiling over.