• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

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2010 tc250 starting issues

M

Motobum

Husqvarna
A Class
Hi all,

I have a new to me, 2010 Tc 250 which I love, but she is a real bugger to start.
I have read everything I can find on here but I'm not sure what is causing my problem.

I have to be real careful to go just past TDC, then make a smooth kick right through the stroke and then sometimes she starts, sometimes not, the kick-starter seems to stop sometimes before the end of the full stroke & then it never starts.

It takes about 5-15 minutes to get her started & sometimes I just have to bump start.

She has the White writing on rims, was raced by Greg Fisher in 2010 & has switchable mapping so I assume has had jetting set up well etc. I contacted Husqvarna a few weeks back to try & find out if there are any outstanding updates / recalls but I have not had an answer yet.

From what I have read I could look at the following:
Leak jet
Main jet
Cdi box
O ring mod
Polish edges of cam shaft
Fuel screw settings

Does anyone have any advice on where I should start?

Does anyone have some advice on where I should start? I contacted H
 
here how I start Ours,
it doesn't like choke unless it's very cold, don't kick it hard it just need a smooth stroke
if it's not that cold out I used the hot start,I give it 1 shot of gas by twisting the throttle
then I put it in gear and spin the motor 2 or 3 times back & forth ,stop when the wheel is backed up against the compression
and it usualy start first kick,i used the hot start about all the time hot or cold and again don't kick it hard
if You don't find a precedure to start it,They are a pain in the...!:naughty:
 
Great just bought one. Bike has had carb work done to it help with starting. Ordered a jet kit from Halls. Husky. We will see, bike will be here next week.
 
dirttracker1 said:
here how I start Ours,
it doesn't like choke unless it's very cold, don't kick it hard it just need a smooth stroke
if it's not that cold out I used the hot start,I give it 1 shot of gas by twisting the throttle
then I put it in gear and spin the motor 2 or 3 times back & forth ,stop when the wheel is backed up against the compression
and it usualy start first kick,i used the hot start about all the time hot or cold and again don't kick it hard
if You don't find a precedure to start it,They are a pain in the...!:naughty:
Click to expand...

Thanks for that, Tried putting the bike in gear & pushing back and forth a few times, seems to help with success rate, took on average about 8-10 kicks per start, is that the best I can hope for dya think?

Cheers,
 
You should be able to get better than that.

Mine has the factory carb updates, JD jet kit, JD fuel screw and cams modded by Bills MC plus.

It starts 1-2 kicks cold and 1-3 kicks hot. Unless you stall it, then it could be 1, 5 or 20 kicks.

Later,
 
We had Halls send us the carb udate parts and their jetting; ours starts in 1-3 kicks hot or cold.
 
I use choke and two throttle twists on cold start, always starts in 1-2 kicks, usually the same hot, but if it is a little loaded and I can't get a smooth kick, use the hot start and then it seems to start within five.
You may need the cam smoothing deal.
I am thinking Kreig told me he put a larger kick starter on also, not sure what it is off of.
Gary
 
Take the engine top cover off and look at the exhaust cam. It should have a spring on the side with the auto decompressor cam. See if the spring has a bent leg on the outside of the cam. If the leg is straight, then that is probably a lot of your problem. Its the early 2010 cam. I had it in mine too, and it would feel like you would hit a brick wall when kickstarting. See this thread for pics. The first pic is the old cam with straight spring. The second pic is of the correct spring. Unfortunately, you can't replace just the spring...you have to buy the whole cam. :P We tried bending the spring ourselves and it actually seemed to work as well as the updated cam that I had already bought. I ended up swapping it out just in case, but the self-bent spring and the updated cam performed the same.
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/my-hot-starting-issues-solved-2010-txc-250.18204/

If its not that, then I don't know. :(
 
Anyone know where I can get a remote hot start for this bike? Anyone try any of the Boyesen products like quikshot 2 or 3? Bike will be here tomorrow****************************************
 
Phoenix said:
Take the engine top cover off and look at the exhaust cam. It should have a spring on the side with the auto decompressor cam. See if the spring has a bent leg on the outside of the cam. If the leg is straight, then that is probably a lot of your problem. Its the early 2010 cam. I had it in mine too, and it would feel like you would hit a brick wall when kickstarting. See this thread for pics. The first pic is the old cam with straight spring. The second pic is of the correct spring. Unfortunately, you can't replace just the spring...you have to buy the whole cam. :P We tried bending the spring ourselves and it actually seemed to work as well as the updated cam that I had already bought. I ended up swapping it out just in case, but the self-bent spring and the updated cam performed the same.
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/my-hot-starting-issues-solved-2010-txc-250.18204/

If its not that, then I don't know. :(
Click to expand...

Thanks for the pics, will take a look at the spring & let you know how I get on.
Thanks again
 
The TC250 seems to be a bit of a finicky starter. My brother has been riding mine lately and has some trouble starting it. I have had the best results with bringing the piston against compression and kicking from about 3/4 from the top. It needs a little window like the old TT500s have.

JS
 
I have just picked up a new 2010 TC250. I researched this bike and learned about this problem and it was discussed with shop where I purchased. It took some work by the shop owner, but he did get confirmation about the carb update (Bulletin B018) and some additional work to get the parts to update. So far the bike has started exceptionally easy hot and cold and I have not encountered the backfire condition that has been reported and the shop encountered with the bike prior to updating the carb. I have an actual copy of the report with parts if you would like to see. Below is the itemized list:

We kindly ask you to update the carburettor of the interested bikes following the attached procedure. This modification is dedicated to racing use bikes only.
If bikes are still in your stock it is necessary to update them before sale; if bikes have been already delivered to the customers you are kindly asked to upgrade them by contacting the final customer.
The parts needed to perform the update are:

8A0098186 Main jet 180 (part already present in the bike kit)
8A00A4624 Idle jet 40 (part already present in the bike kit)
8000H3009 Jet needle OBENR
8000H3174 Cap drain
8000H3173 Hot starter valve kit
8A00H2025 Pump jet 50
 
Okay I have checked the cam and it does indeed have a bent spring on it.
The dealer has told me that the issue is probably my valve clearances, so I'm going to do that next, if that doesn't work I think the only thing left to try will be the chamfered edge on the exhaust cam.
Does anyone know what the best tool for that job is going to be, as I don't think using my dremmel is gonna be a good idea, ha ha.
 
Depending on the hours on the bike, you may need valves. As soon as you said it will bump start fine, but not start on the kicker, that is generally a sign of worn out valves.
 
ScottyR said:
Depending on the hours on the bike, you may need valves. As soon as you said it will bump start fine, but not start on the kicker, that is generally a sign of worn out valves.
Click to expand...

Yeah the TC seems like a different beast in that matter. Mine had 4 hours on it and it would bump start fine but not kick over without an act of god. Once the jetting was dialed that was no longer an issue. Valves checkes out fine also. Kelly had the same issue with his.

Later,
 
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