• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

2009 TE310 - Fuel Pressure and Testing

S

smythe

Husqvarna
AA Class
I am in the process of troubleshooting a crank-no-start condition on a 2009 TE310. I am working my way through the fuel system and have a couple of questions.

With fuel pressure gauge inline - turn the key on pump primes to 43psi -with out cranking and after few seconds, pressure begins to drop. In about a minute or so it drops down to zero.

While cranking - pressure will remain solid and not fluctuate, until I stop trying to start - then it drops down to zero.

I believed it was fuel leaking out of the injector and to confirm - I dead headed the gauge to the fuel pump, while it did behave the same (fuel pressure drops after initial pump prime) - the drop was noticeably slower - but did eventually get to zero.

Anyone experience the same thing?
 
I'd guess you're dealing with a bad submersible fuel line, fuel filter, check ball, or regulator (or maybe a bad pump). It might not be a huge problem if the pump can sustain adequate pressure while running... but since you cannot get it running: yeah, it's a problem.

I have heard that the ecu runs the pump for 2 seconds when the ignition is turned on. Once it's running, the pump should come on. maybe.

I'm assuming you have spark (coil is on the same relay as the fuel pump). spray starting fluid while you're attempting to start it. If it catches and tries to run, you've pretty much confirmed you have a fueling issue and that you have spark.


wait a minute... charge the battery fully too. and kick start it maybe also.
 
hello guys
I am wondering about the " the plastic fuel filter" in order to take one with me on a major trip on my 500 SWM, 510 husky' s clone .
Is it a spare part ?
thanks
 
ex-xt said:
hello guys
I am wondering about the " the plastic fuel filter" in order to take one with me on a major trip on my 500 SWM, 510 husky' s clone .
Is it a spare part ?
thanks
Click to expand...

you're going to have to look up the filter for SWM. The husky part number is 8000h0183 but seems to be deprecated.

No matter- these generic submersible filters are generally 100mm long, with a body of about 50-60mm long. The inlet is (sometimes) 6mm and the outlet is usually 8mm... I think to keep people from installing them backwards. They generally have a 10micron or bigger rating. They need to be able to handle 50psi of working pressure (most filters can do this maybe??). My bike takes a Mahle KL15, which fits this description.

I don't think you want to plan on replacing this in the field. Typically, they use those Oetiker clamps and nylon (teflon?) fuel line- which is a super bitch to work with.

Instead, bring a length of 8mm fuel line with you and some wire for a clamp too. Then plumb in your new filter or even bypass the filter altogether. A good quality 8mm fuel line ought to last a year, even if it's not submersible.

But I would use a filter sock (a pre-filter installed in your tank filler neck) or a chamois leather to filter any fuel going into the tank- especially when buying gas out of 1-gallon milk jugs 200Km from the nearest asphalt. (real chamois does not allow water to pass through)

Some people have jury-rigged a 38mm fuel pump in (as opposed to a 30mm pump common on motorcycles). These pumps have been used for almost 40 years (on toyota trucks, for example) and you should be able to find them anywhere for nothing almost (under $10 here in the US, and you can find them all day long for under $25). Something to keep in mind.

have fun in Africa.
 
thank you Trenchcoat for the knowledge ! good trick to maybe bypass and put a toyo' filter in double .
Of course I will use also the "basket" filter in the tank himself .
In fact I had never seen problems with petrol in Morocco as long as you fill on "regular" stations. Less than in France maybe:thumbsup:. I had been there 4 times with my forester .
But precaution are useful anyway and the swm is different from the DRZ too.
The tank will last 240 k . tested at 150 before "out of gas" with the genuine 7.3 . The IMS is supposed to be 11.8 .
So I will maybe carry an extra bag for fuel ?
 
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