• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

2009 TE250 Chain Adjusters

E

Eoin

Husqvarna
AA Class
The rear chain adjusters on my TE250 have been quite stiff to adjust, so I've lubricated with dry moly paste and copper grease and run them in and out. They are freer now, but tighten right up if I extend them out further than around 20 mm. I will really have to force them to come out further. The thread that I can see looks perfect.

Questions:

1. I assume the adjuster screws should be able to be removed completely?
2. I also assume that the threaded insert is an integral part of the swing arm, so I don't want to risk damaging that by forcing the screw out?
3. There is a lot of available slider travel on the swing arm. Are there axle blocks available with a bigger offset to give more adjustment, or do people use spacers?

Any info appreciated.
 
The adjuster bolts do come out, but they can seize up and break. The swing arm is threaded, if you break the bolt it can be repaired.
 
I've worked on these with penetrating oil and gradually got them out. One side is not too bad, the other will take a screw but is binding. I'm going to try running a tap down it before resorting to a coil.
 
when you put it back together, use marine grease on the bolts, if you have any moisture inside your swingarm this will prevent the corrosion from affecting your threads
 
I got an extension bar for my taps - 4.9 mm square drive. This allowed me to run the taps through the distorted threads, which worked really well. The threads are good enough to use for the adjusters, got some nice new Titanium adjuster bolts as well. Rear wheel on and aligned.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top