• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

2008 smr450 engine failure

D

danfabb7255

Husqvarna
B Class
Hey guys. My 08 smr450 crapped out at the end of last summer. Haven't touch it yet but since the warm weather is coming I want to get this thing rocking and rolling again. The bike stalled out while going about 15 mph and only thing I know is I pulled out the spark plug and the end was crushed. What does that usually mean? I'm no mechanic. And if the engine is too gone to rebuild where can I get a 08 smr 450 motor on the United states east coast that's not crazy expensive lol any help is much appreciated!
 
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First put it on a stand, leave the plug out, put it in gear and see if it will crank over by hand (slowly) by turning the rear wheel. Listen for any unusual mechanical noise or resistance.
That will give you an indication if the engine has major issues.
I would then take the head off and inspect the valves and piston.
I would think unless the whole shebang is stuffed then a minor rebuild would be cheaper than a replacement engine.
 
drain the oil and see how much metal comes out. You can also take off the exhaust and intake and have a peek inside to see if you see metal bits hanging about. agree with above, first see if the engine will turn over (slowly!). Never know what truly happened until you start opening it up. If there's significant damage the cost of repairs (especially if you aren't doing it yourself) can easily exceed the cost of a used engine (assuming you can find one).

Last I checked Halls had a very low mileage TE450 motor for sale, but it doesn't have a counter balancer and won't be as smooth as your SMR engine.
 
hmmmm.... I suppose if you're real lucky, maybe *something* went through the intake system and bent the sparkplug electrode on its way out, closing the gap & stalling the engine- without doing any damage (I don't know how a gap could close by itself, but maybe?). (cost: re-gap the plug; or if it was, for example, a ring fragment it could be slightly expensive to very expensive... new cyl, piston, head)

If you're semi-lucky, something like a bent valve, or fragment from the piston crown where the valve hit it, closed the sparkplug gap... but your engine was dying already because of a stuck valve or timing chain jump, for example. (cost: top-end job, possibly new cylinder)

If you have normal luck, you might've lost a bearing (eg. wrist pin, big end, or crank) and the piston crown itself closed the plug gap on impact. (cost: damage here varying from top-end job to very bad to total junk). This would've been kinda noisy though, so maybe there's hope.

Seems to me that kicking it over by hand w/o the sparkplug would tell you a little (compression could indicate a good situation or even a very bad situation; no compression might mean you can expect at least a top-end job to fix.

Dan- these are just off-the-cuffs guesses. We'll keep our fingers crossed! And let us know what you find.
 
Hey guys thanks for the help! I found metal in the exhaust. I took the valve cover off but can't seem to find a way to get the cam chain off
 
danfabb7255 said:
Hey guys thanks for the help! I found metal in the exhaust. I took the valve cover off but can't seem to find a way to get the cam chain off
Click to expand...

You have to remove the water pump, which pulls out through the top sprocket, allowing it to drop so as the chain can be unhooked. Undo the pump bolts and pull!
 
3 of the 4 valves were toast. Bottom end and rod are fine. Just need a piston and a head. I think I got lucky enough lol
 
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