125-200cc 2008 SM /WRE Water pump seal replacement

[Daniel B]

I have a 2008 125 SMS.
Did search back to 2014 but couldnt find anything,hope someone can but in and provide some information!
My transmission oil ,is still milky grey colour after 2 oil changes ,so,suspecting the usual water pump seal leak to transmission oil,I will be doing this job.
First I need to order the seals and this is my problem****************************************!On the parts catalogue ,I only see a gasket and no seal****************************************
Found an excelent video on youtube ,but its on a KTM and being a "sister" company,maybe its the same ""

The part number on catalogue is on diagram below and the other picture is what I thought th water seal kit maybe,shoud it be the same as the KTM.

Thanks

 

[gazmcfaza]

ktm didn't buy husky that early, I thought it was 2011/2012 they took over. Your diagram looks like my wre's system, with a double hoses and a thermostat on the cylinder head, all I've ever done is taken off the waterpump cover by the oil pump, fitted new impeller and a new gasket back on, part 12 and 9 are what I took off/ put back on. I've never had water leaking into the gearbox oil though, where is this seal you're trying to replace located? Can you put a photo up?

 

[Daniel B]

Thanks for the feedback.I would like to confirm all parts before removing coolant and water pump cover.When you removed the impeller ,wasn't there a seal in the middle,like in my photo of the gasket and seal?
Or didn't you have a seal in yours like on the ktm video?Is part number 9,what separates water from leaking into gearbox?

 

[gazmcfaza]

need someone elses opinion on this, I took my waterpump cover off and attached photos for you, my bike is a 2005 wre 125, but I'm sure there is a seal somewhere else that stops the water leaking into the oil, I'm just not sure where it is, sorry. There's a guy on here named robert jan who is very knowledgeable though

 

[Daniel B]

Thanks Gaz ,for the pics.That proves that the gasket and seal are different from the KTM in the video.
Still a mystery about the seal!Maybe its on the other side of the engine casing!
You say you never had an issue with water mixing with transmission oil,so your oil is always red ,not a grey milky colour!Would interesting for others to conttribute to this thread and let us know if they have issues.

 

[Daniel B]

Crankacse diagram!Could the seal be number 2?

 

[gazmcfaza]

I don't know sorry, I've never had this problem with the oil and coolant mixing. The gearbox is a separate place for the oil to where the combustion happens though, so I'd have thought there would be a seal behind the clutch cover area rather than at the front near the waterpump. If it is part 2 I'm surprised as I was sure the only oil in that bit was the 2 stroke by the piston and crankshaft, not gearbox oil

 

[R-J van Hulst]

View attachment 68324
Crankacse diagram!Could the seal be number 2?

No the seal is nr 3

Robert-Jan

 

[R-J van Hulst]

I had several times milky oil after rides with water crossings
the reason was a split engine breather hose.

Robert-Jan

 

[Daniel B]

No the seal is nr 3

Robert-Jan

Thank you
I was hoping it to be number 3 ,cheaper and easier ..Just dont understand why on earth Husqvarna stuck it in the "crankcase systematic diagram" and not in the "cooling system"****************************************
Gazmcfaza,been very helpful and even sent photos of water pump cover removed and showing just the impeller!So,theoretically,once the impeller is removed .we should see the seal over the water pump shaft,right?

 

[R-J van Hulst]

Thank you
I was hoping it to be number 3 ,cheaper and easier ..Just dont understand why on earth Husqvarna stuck it in the "crankcase systematic diagram" and not in the "cooling system"
Gazmcfaza,been very helpful and even sent photos of water pump cover removed and showing just the impeller!So,theoretically,once the impeller is removed .we should see the seal over the water pump shaft,right?

replacing the seal is not a big deal remove the impeller and you can pull it out with a small screwdriver.
the new one you push gently in with an nut or ring slightly bigger then the seal.
this ensure you apply evenly pressure on the seal while putting it in place so it align without damaging it.

the choice of showing it where in the drawings is a matter of philosophy on showing the engine

the cooling system is showing the parts that are in direct contact and function with the cooling liquid

the oil seal is a interface component but is always part of a shaft so you can choose where to show it (for picture clarity reasons I would say that the used philosophy is not a bad one in my opinion)

Robert-Jan

 

[Daniel B]

Thanks for that.Appreciate it.

 

[Daniel B]

I had several times milky oil after rides with water crossings
the reason was a split engine breather hose.

Robert-Jan

No riding in the rain here!However,my son did hose off ythe bike****************************************!!I dont seem to be loosing any coolant ,as the level is maintaining,so your suggestion is a good one and I will check the engine breather hose!

I changed the oil about 300 kms ago because its was milky grey oil .Have no idea what oil was in there or when previous ownner changed it!
Manual recommended oil is CASTROL POWER 1 5W40..,however,since I am not able to get it locally,I used CASTROL MTX 10W-40,which is a red oil ,similar in colour to ATF fluid!In your opinion ,could this be a reason why its milky?What gearbox oil do you use ?
I will start a thread to see what others use .

 

[mbb]

In order to remove the seal, you have to remove the clutch cover. Knock out the bearing than the seal.
Seal code is dcy 10x18x5/8 with 2 garter spring.
Bearing for water pump shaft 6000

 

[mbb]

 

[Daniel B]

In order to remove the seal, you have to remove the clutch cover. Knock out the bearing than the seal.
Seal code is dcy 10x18x5/8 with 2 garter spring.
Bearing for water pump shaft 6000

Mbb,Thanks very much for that

 

[R-J van Hulst]

No riding in the rain here!However,my son did hose off ythe bike !!I dont seem to be loosing any coolant ,as the level is maintaining,so your suggestion is a good one and I will check the engine breather hose!

I changed the oil about 300 kms ago because its was milky grey oil .Have no idea what oil was in there or when previous ownner changed it!
Manual recommended oil is CASTROL POWER 1 5W40..,however,since I am not able to get it locally,I used CASTROL MTX 10W-40,which is a red oil ,similar in color to ATF fluid!In your opinion ,could this be a reason why its milky?What gearbox oil do you use ?
I will start a thread to see what others use .

10W40 is what I use but make sure that it is not oil designed for a car but designed for a motorbike.

the car oil contains friction inhibitors what doesn't work really well for your clutch.

if there is no cooling liquid loss then there is water entering a different way into the engine.

the breather hose was the culprit in my case

Another reason but its a far fetch one could be condense water in the engine it self this occurs when there is a high humidity and you don't heat the engine up (very short rides)

just check if the breather Hose s fine (cracked or blocked is both not good)

Robert-Jan

 

[Daniel B]

10W40 is what I use but make sure that it is not oil designed for a car but designed for a motorbike.

the car oil contains friction inhibitors what doesn't work really well for your clutch.

if there is no cooling liquid loss then there is water entering a different way into the engine.

the breather hose was the culprit in my case

Another reason but its a far fetch one could be condense water in the engine it self this occurs when there is a high humidity and you don't heat the engine up (very short rides)

just check if the breather Hose s fine (cracked or blocked is both not good)

Robert-Jan

Thanks Again....will be checking all that.

 

[Daniel B]

View attachment 68609View attachment 68610 View attachment 68608
Ok,guys,just an update!It was indeed,coolant in oil!
I now have to wait for the gasket and seal to arrive ,before I can actually do the job.
I had coolant loss and this was verified by the excess "milky "oil removed from gearbox (put in 650ml and about 800ml come out!)
After draining all the "milky "oil ,I ran some engine oil through gearbox until a "brownish" mix came out and then removed the contents and put a clean backet
under the bike to let it drip the rest of the oil!Didnt take long for the brownish colour to turn "milky "white again and 8 hours after,still dripping!So,the water seal must be really bad!

One question for the experts,regarding the new seal install!It has been said that the problem with the leak ,is because the seal is factory installed with the "spring" wrong way round ,against water pressure!The right way to install it ,is with spring facing out!Anyone done this or agree with it?I am going to install it as per factory!

I will put up more pictures when the parts arrive and I can do the job.

 

[R-J van Hulst]

check if you have leeway on the bearing

the seal does normally last quite long yet if the bearing starts to get play the seal will be pushed in the a zone that it is stretch beyond its working area.

if the bearing have to be replaced you are looking at taking a bit more off then only the water pump cover.

Robert-Jan