2007 TE450 problems starting

[Coffee]

Coffee...can you tell me where the adjustment is for the pilot screw?!?!?! I have the bike open and about to check valve clearance tomorrow morning (can't find my feeler gauge)..anticipate valves need adjusting as I put over 2000 km on this rig over the season and bought this bike with over 10000km and it has yet to have a rebuild...anticipate it may be time... I think I found where it is but looks really tough to access...

This video shows removal of the pilot jet screw - the first 20 seconds, and again at 3:27 to 3:34, the video is actually clearer if you watch it on youtube as opposed to the embedded version on Cafe Husky:
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/how-to-re-jet-a-carb-video.1160/

The pilot screw is upside down towards the front of the carb - above the starter. It is virtually impossible to adjust unless you have an after market fuel screw. Though it is possible to loosen the band clamps and rotate the carb to turn the screw - that will not work for adjusting the screw while the bike is running.

Here is a video on how to check the valves in case that might help, these are tough bikes, and the valves do not tend to move:
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/how-to-check-valves-on-a-2006-4stroke-video.1159/

 

[ripnriding]

THANKS Coffee..agree this is a tough bike. Reviewed your videos and will tackle the valve check first and if found to be tight will shim proper...if within spec, will then tackle the carb Love this forum btw...what did we do BEFORE the internet hehehehehe

 

[Coffee]

THANKS Coffee..agree this is a tough bike. Reviewed your videos and will tackle the valve check first and if found to be tight will shim proper...

Just keep in mind the video is incorrect, and it does make a slight difference: the feeler gauge should go just above the shim, not just below the cam.

 

[ripnriding]

ahHA..so...confirmed..valve clearance as follows:

1 .008 (in spec)
2 .003 (tight)
3 and 4 less than .002 (whoa nelly)

So...good thing I didn't start farting around with the carb. Think I'll bring into shop and have them check valves (shim short term) and opinion on rebuild..Luckily the weather is brutal (wet and cold) Kept me from taking her out last couple of days. Had valves shimmed in spring as there was zero clearance in both exhausts if I recall...guessing it is pointing towards a rebuild..

 

[ripnriding]

ahHA..so...confirmed..valve clearance as follows:

1 .008 (in spec)
2 .003 (tight)
3 and 4 less than .002 (whoa nelly)

So...good thing I didn't start farting around with the carb. Think I'll bring into shop and have them check valves (shim short term) and opinion on rebuild..Luckily the weather is brutal (wet and cold) Kept me from taking her out last couple of days. Had valves shimmed in spring as there was zero clearance in both exhausts if I recall...guessing it is pointing towards a rebuild..

For anyone who is interested. Valve clearance rechecked by shop and exhaust valve found to be in negative clearance. Adjusted and now starts better than it ever had!!! Now......off to the gym as my bike sits there in -20 C weather.....if we had snow....more tolerable....arrrgh

 

[Bartz]

Right update time****************************************
My mate has been lonely riding by himself so did a heap of work on my bike, new bearings, chain, sprockets, clutch master and the like. Tested running hot ridin up and down his street and no probs. so we hit the dirt, worked well for a little while and then started playing up. The consensus was to sell it and follow the ktm brigade, then on way back I took out a tree and bent radiator and split a water pipe argh****************************************!
Lucky the rad is ok and with some gentle footwork it's back in place and I replaced all hoses.
I spent 2 days after Xmas testing and have some weird results - seems the start issues are gone, I have learned the right way to rub it when cold and hot which helps but does seem better,
BUT****************************************!!!
Now it runs perfectly for around 20 minutes then it just dies, does this no matter of lugging around or cruising on open tracks. Then of I sit around for 10-15 minutes it starts up again and goes for another 20 mins before cutting out again.
I remembered we fiddled with air/fuel screw last time out the bush and it was off so took back to the 1.5 turns. Seemed to need this but same cutout happening although can restart sooner but less time its left to cool the less time before it cuts again.
It sounds like the motor just shuts down, like fuel starved? Or now we are thinking electrical but what???
If restarted too early the muffler pops and no action.
Funny thing is I have done 2 days of start stopping and the electric start is functioning well and battery shows nearly full charge (earlier I would kill it very quickly)
So how do I prove if its fuel or electrical?
I haven't had any luck with taking it to a few shops but are these symptoms now something they can actually do something with?
I'd really like a guru here to give me a golden fix!!!
I had the valves checked 8 months ago and they said was fine but the guy who did it is known to be good but mentioned the innards of the husky were different to what he was used to in other bikes, could valve shims be unique enough that he got it wrong? Arghh grasping at straws****************************************
I had a fiddle with suspension and at least for improvements there, I'd love to fix this thing as I want to win and even though I'm thinking 2 stroke might be less headaches for me I don't want to pass on troubles to anyone!

 

[Xriderdown]

Never hurts to check the decompression actuator. If it's not in good shape, you have problems starting that bike. A bad decompression actuator will not only result in hard starting but suck the life out of a betters as well. I have replaced 4 on my 05 TE510 and it fixed the starting issue every time. You see engineers have refined the actuator over the years. The newest one is looks to be the best yet. I may have contributed to the multiple failures by not using the hot start when I should have because of the location. What a pain reaching down to grab the knob. I purchased a ProEFX(hotstartsystem.com) electric start switch and use it all the time now.

 

[Xriderdown]

Here's a look at the actuators I have replace overtime. They are positioned in chronological order since 05.
The most current design is at the bottom.

 

[Bartz]

Here's a look at the actuators I have replace overtime. They are positioned in chronological order since 05.
The most current design is at the bottom.
View attachment 35479

Thanks, seems these 4 strokes have an endless list of bits that can cause problems and its hard to pinpoint which bit**************************************** Soon I will have replaced everything!!!
The decomp seems to work well. I do use it often to get the starter spinning then let go to start, is this wrong?
How do I know if the decomp is causing an issue? I can't see anything obviously wrong in that photo.
And why would it run perfectly when cool then just cut out?
I reckon Husky should read this forum and realise my bike is giving them a bad name around my area, had become a common saying to blame any problem (bike or non bike) on that "Damn Husky"!

 

[Xriderdown]

You shouldn't have to use the manual compression release to "pre-spin" the motor. That's the first sign of a warn auto-decompressor. Straining and wearing out batteries is also a sign of a failing auto-decompressor. The auto-decompression actuator does't have to have much wear on its lobe to start causing problems. Especially on the older design units. That's why it's hard to see in the picture. In some cases you can pop off the valve cover and watch how the actuator is working as you slowly hand-crank the motor. Sometimes you can see and hear the actuator slip off the rocker prematurely. When working properly, it will hold the exhaust valve open for a split second.....just enough to allow these high compression motors to fire easily. It should only slide off the rocker arm with centrifugal force as a result of the engine firing up. You can't get this precise with the manual decompressor lever.

Not sure about your cutting out problem. May be a result of all the other tuning you've been doing. I can tell you this though. Every time I had a starting problem it was fixed by changing the auto-decompressor.....period. Now that I use the hot-start every time, my starting issues are over.

 

[Bartz]

You shouldn't have to use the manual compression release to "pre-spin" the motor. That's the first sign of a warn auto-decompressor. Straining and wearing out batteries is also a sign of a failing auto-decompressor. The auto-decompression actuator does't have to have much wear on its lobe to start causing problems. Especially on the older design units. That's why it's hard to see in the picture. In some cases you can pop off the valve cover and watch how the actuator is working as you slowly hand-crank the motor. Sometimes you can see and hear the actuator slip off the rocker prematurely. When working properly, it will hold the exhaust valve open for a split second.....just enough to allow these high compression motors to fire easily. It should only slide off the rocker arm with centrifugal force as a result of the engine firing up. You can't get this precise with the manual decompressor lever.

Not sure about your cutting out problem. May be a result of all the other tuning you've been doing. I can tell you this though. Every time I had a starting problem it was fixed by changing the auto-decompressor.....period. Now that I use the hot-start every time, my starting issues are over.

Ahh I need to read slower, I thought you meant the manual decomp,
Maybe this auto decomp has had a beating so you could be right, now I just need to find out how to replace it..can anyone point me to a how to?

 

[tls25rs]

Just read through the thread, I know that there have been a few of us that have experienced similar issues with the bike running fine for approx. 20 minutes, or until starting to get hot, only to then stall and not start up and run again until it has cooled off significantly.

What it wound up being on my bike was the stator. When it got hot the bike would inexplicably stall and no amount of cranking would get it started again until it cooled off. I went through changing every piece of the electrical system piece by piece with known good units until the only thing left was the stator. Changed the stator and the bike has run fine since. Hot or cold the bike starts and runs without issue.

For informations sake my bike is an 06 SM510.

Joel

 

[Bartz]

Just read through the thread, I know that there have been a few of us that have experienced similar issues with the bike running fine for approx. 20 minutes, or until starting to get hot, only to then stall and not start up and run again until it has cooled off significantly.

What it wound up being on my bike was the stator. When it got hot the bike would inexplicably stall and no amount of cranking would get it started again until it cooled off. I went through changing every piece of the electrical system piece by piece with known good units until the only thing left was the stator. Changed the stator and the bike has run fine since. Hot or cold the bike starts and runs without issue.

For informations sake my bike is an 06 SM510.

Joel

Haha I think I am resigned to replacing every bit (shoulda not been a cheap skate and bought a new one!)
It's a learning process if anything, I am pondering whether to learn more and just rebuild the whole bike!
I have a spare stator for my road bike (triumph sprint) as they are known to go too!
Am having difficulty finding this auto decomp part, on trooper lu's garage site there is a good diagram part search function, nearest I can figure is its called a valve lifter weight, can anyone confirm?

 

[Bartz]

Here's a look at the actuators I have replace overtime. They are positioned in chronological order since 05.
The most current design is at the bottom.
View attachment 35479

So the designs have changed over the years but do they still fit older models? Do I need one for an 07 or will a current one retrofit?

 

[tls25rs]

Haha I think I am resigned to replacing every bit (shoulda not been a cheap skate and bought a new one!)
It's a learning process if anything, I am pondering whether to learn more and just rebuild the whole bike!
I have a spare stator for my road bike (triumph sprint) as they are known to go too!
Am having difficulty finding this auto decomp part, on trooper lu's garage site there is a good diagram part search function, nearest I can figure is its called a valve lifter weight, can anyone confirm?

The nice part of me doing the swapping is I had all the parts I needed in my garage on another bike. Having to buy the parts to hunt down the issue would have really sucked. Good luck getting it squared away and let us know when you get it sorted what it was.

Joel

 

[Xriderdown]

So the designs have changed over the years but do they still fit older models? Do I need one for an 07 or will a current one retrofit?

I'm pretty sure they are all the same spec. I never paid attention to the part#. I'm sure any reputable Husky dealer, who performs service, knows more about this than I do. Each time I needed one, I only asked my local dealer for an actuator to fit my 2005 Te510. After each purchase I noticed the replacement appeared to have a marginal improvement in either material or design. That was until the last one. It's noticeably revamped. This proves, in my view, the engineers knew of a problem and have been working to addressed it. With regards to replacing the actuator, it's a fairly easy job. Sorry I don't have any detailed instructions.

 

[Bartz]

Update:
So I checked my valve clearances and found one inlet was at end of tolerance and other was half way. Took both back to minimum. Thought about replacing auto decomp but scared about stuffing cam pulling bearing so just put back together and oil change.
GUESS WHAT****************************************! PURRRRRFECT starting****************************************!! I mean push red button and millisecond later bike starts****************************************! Amazing!
To think I paid nearly $500 bucks for a service with valve checks and have had start issues all along!

So out for a test ride and the motor is running much better - lugs like they say a 4 stroke should, power off from any revs...I had a grin from ear to ear****************************************

So got to the 20min mark and the clutch lever went mushy and lost clutch again. Headed for home, up a longish hill with no clutch, at top of hill bike coughed, sputtered and died. So now am unsure if this dying issue is the same as before or linked to losing the clutch?
Let cool down a little, till I could feel a little clutch action then fired up and continued for home, got another km down the road cruising at around 50km/hr and coughed and died again.
Was recommended to check spark with a spare plug in sparkplug lead - a nice blue spark on the crank case so it's sparking!

By the time I had done this, bike was cool, clutch feel back to around 60% and fired straight up and got me home.

So any more ideas people?

 

[Ruffus]

When I first got my 06 I kept losing clutch pressure at high speed, turned out to be a crimped crank case evacuation hose, straightened it out & all was good for a few years, later when I lost the clutch, it was the slave piston. Put in a 7602 unit & all was good for a couple more years. Last time I lost the clutch, I noticed the slave itself was bad, so I ordered a new unit from ZipTy & also put in a new 7602 piston. Working like a charm. I do my own valve checks & adjustments (easy as pie with Deans video) . Ordered a HotCams master shim kit & it came will all the shims I'll ever need. The valves have moved very, very little since new.

 

[Bartz]

Mind putting up a photo of this crank case evacuation hose so I can find it and check it

 

[Ruffus]

Mind putting up a photo of this crank case evacuation hose so I can find it and check it

I can do it later tonight, but it's easy to find. It's the small black hose coming from the valve cover on the right hand side & going to the airbox. I guess if it's not free flowing enough (pinched/severely kinked) pressure builds up inside the engine & can push the clutch piston out enough to lose clutch lever pressure. It sounded odd to me, but the person who mentioned it was well experienced with Husky's so I gave it a shot. I only lost clutch lever pressure after a highway run at 50+MPH. Worked fine at trail & residential speeds. After straightening the hose routing & removing the kink, it worked great at all speeds.