• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

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    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

2007 TE250 intermittent ignition driving me nuts....

7.48OD is correct. I have a couple of 2.30mm shims on the way.. Let hope this cures this sick bitch...


http://www.oemcycle.com/Item/product/900066263
Pro-X 9.48mm - Valve Shim Kit
Husqvarna SMR 450 2006 - 2010
Husqvarna SMR 510 2008 - 2010
Husqvarna TC250 2006 - 2007
Husqvarna TC450 2006 - 2010
Husqvarna TC510 2006 - 2009
Husqvarna TE250 2006 - 2009
Husqvarna TE450 2006 - 2010
Husqvarna TE510 2008 - 2010
Husqvarna TXC 250 2008 - 2009
Husqvarna TXC 450 2008 - 2010
Husqvarna TXC 510 2008 - 2010
 
I have a 2007 TE250 which is driving me nuts.. It stalls and dies after 10-15 min in the trails.. ? After it cools off, it starts and runs fine for another 10 min then stalls and again won’t start..Had to be pulled back to the barn last ride...

I disassembled and cleaned the carb and put in a JD jet kit and a new battery.. Again, after 15 min on the trail it quits.. It seems to run fine on the streets.. No issues ?

I’m thinking the stator is shorting out or something after it gets hot…

Got any ideas?

Can I pull the stator and bench test it?


I would check for spark 1st after it dies. No spark=things electrical like coil, spark plug and spark plug wire voltage leak, wire probs etc. To check for spark to ground leaks, run it in the dark and look for sparks. Then, are u sure that u don't have a head gasket leak? That can cause intermitentent-sealing probs as engine heats up. Also, a vacuum leak around the carb intake manifold can cause an intermitent running prob as it heats up. To check for manifold leaks, carefully spray starter fluid around the intake manifold as it’s running and listen for a change in rpm. If it changes, u have a leak where u sprayed.
 
Your right, the bike is actually an '06 not an '07 so it uses the smaller dia. shim. I ended up sending the 7.48mm dia shims back.
 
What's the ? I ended up using the smaller dia. shims and my bike is a 2006. So now I can kick start it cold and it runs great.. Once started… If shut it down its a bitch to kick it over to get it going again.. It still won't spin over with the e-starter… I even put a car battery directly on the starter lugs and got the same deal.. Real slow crank struggling to get it thru TDC.. So I'm thinking its the ol'starter it self.. I disassembled and it looks clean.. Could be short or just worn. It has pretty high friction to spin it… So now I guess I shell out the $$$ for a new Italian starter and keep trying… Any suggestions...
 
You should get any wrong shims out of the bike ASAP.

When you pulled the starter, did you get the brushes pulled out and examined?

Did you do the timing checks that I suggested? I'll reprint them here in case you missed them.

With the cams at TDC, go over to the left side of the bike and look for a dimple on the far right of the intake cam gear, and a dimple on the far left of the exhaust gear. Those dimples should be relatively the same position and close to being on the plane of the head top edge, kinda like this.

--------o---------.........................--------o---------

Back to viewing from the right side, make sure the double dimple where you have the white paint is exactly on the mark.

===================================================================

Have you double checked that the piston and the double dimple are correct?

Insert a stiff, plastic straw into the spark plug hole, do not use anything metal, do not use anything wood.
With the trans in 6th gear, rock the rear wheel back and forth as you hold onto the straw, so that you can feel the tiny movements near TDC. get the straw to where is is half way between going up and going down and that's where the double dimple should align perfectly with the hash mark.
 
Starts after a few hard kicks when cold.. Runs great… Shut it off and it will NOT restart ! Not afar kicking it to death.. WTF?
 
You should get any wrong shims out of the bike ASAP.

When you pulled the starter, did you get the brushes pulled out and examined?

Did you do the timing checks that I suggested? I'll reprint them here in case you missed them.

With the cams at TDC, go over to the left side of the bike and look for a dimple on the far right of the intake cam gear, and a dimple on the far left of the exhaust gear. Those dimples should be relatively the same position and close to being on the plane of the head top edge, kinda like this.

--------o---------.........................--------o---------

Back to viewing from the right side, make sure the double dimple where you have the white paint is exactly on the mark.

===================================================================

Have you double checked that the piston and the double dimple are correct?

Insert a stiff, plastic straw into the spark plug hole, do not use anything metal, do not use anything wood.
With the trans in 6th gear, rock the rear wheel back and forth as you hold onto the straw, so that you can feel the tiny movements near TDC. get the straw to where is is half way between going up and going down and that's where the double dimple should align perfectly with the hash mark.



OHR,
I double checked the cam positions at TDC. The exhaust mark is just slightly more advanced than the intake mark… Not "exactly" aligned with the top edge of the head but maybe 1/2 tooth advanced. There are white marked teeth on the right side of the cam gears that do align with marks on the center cam drive gear so I believe they are in the correct position. But it still can't spin with the new $200 e-starter ??.. I re-checked the valve gaps and are still at .009" and .006" for the exhaust and intake respectively.. I have a new ADC cam and it seems to be working as it should.. I'm stumped.. Could the cams be out of tolerance ? anyone know what the 2007 TE250 intake and exhaust cam lobes should measure ?
 
Shim exhaust on the ADC side to .007"

Does the bike have a manual decompression lever? If it does, are you using it? Just have it pulled in when you hit the starter, release it as soon as the motor cranks.
 
I would shim it but I believe the shims come in .005" increments. So If I go one more size up it will make the gap .004" which is too far closed. I guess I can sand the shim down some with some 600 grit ? If thats what I need to do ..

I was also thinking the battery could be shot.. It spins the motor great with the decomp pulled in but can't crank it thru... just lugs it around.. The bat is 1yr old and it's a basic lead acid.. I'm gonna have it load checked today... Maybe all I need is a decent Yuasa AGM to get the CCA up for the starter to work properly. Im getting there, riding season starts next month..
 
I would shim it but I believe the shims come in .005" increments. So If I go one more size up it will make the gap .004" which is too far closed. I guess I can sand the shim down some with some 600 grit ? If thats what I need to do ..

I was also thinking the battery could be shot.. It spins the motor great with the decomp pulled in but can't crank it thru... just lugs it around.. The bat is 1yr old and it's a basic lead acid.. I'm gonna have it load checked today... Maybe all I need is a decent Yuasa AGM to get the CCA up for the starter to work properly. Im getting there, riding season starts next month..


The numbers on the shims only guide me to the closest fit, I measure the shims coming out of the bike and I measure the shims I want to put in the bike, the shims I have used are NEVER the exact size they say they are, there has always been a size differential that allows me to get the clearance I want, I DO have the full kit of shims, if you can borrow someone's kit of many shims, it would help.

The battery is a definite need, regardless of age, it HAS TO HAVE the cranking amps under load to get over the 60-80 lbs of compression. Here's an example to give you a base of reference, 4 year old TE450, 6 month old battery (Yuasa AGM), new starter, new decomp lobe.

 
I found a problem with the starter clutch.. It was severely worn so that just the farthest right side gears were actually there.. Maybe the clutch was just slipping during the start cycle.. ? I need to get at that clutch and have a look. Any idea how to do that ? Its behind the main clutch...
 
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