• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

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    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

2007 TE250 intermittent ignition driving me nuts....

Shotgun Jimmy

Husqvarna
C Class
I have a 2007 TE250 which is driving me nuts.. It stalls and dies after 10-15 min in the trails.. ? After it cools off, it starts and runs fine for another 10 min then stalls and again won’t start..Had to be pulled back to the barn last ride...

I disassembled and cleaned the carb and put in a JD jet kit and a new battery.. Again, after 15 min on the trail it quits.. It seems to run fine on the streets.. No issues ?

I’m thinking the stator is shorting out or something after it gets hot…

Got any ideas?

Can I pull the stator and bench test it?
 
Not sure, I have the 2006 version of your bike though.

Have you tried using the hot start when it dies? If that did not help then I agree with you, it sounds electrical. Might want to take a look at the wires around the steering stem, it could be possible that the wire that goes to the kill button might be having issues.
 
I think its electrical since it runs great for the first 15 min then goes to hell.. Like it gets shorted when it reaches a certain temp.. After I put it away and come back its fine... ? I'm getting sick of this hot looking European babe.. Shes unpredictable and high maintenance...
 
I'm getting tired of having to push this bike home… I had the stator re-wound by RM Stator ( $175 ) in Quebec but on its first time out the bike again started to hesiatate after about 10 min of riding in the street.. It finally completely died and after killing the battery trying to get it going I had to call for a pick up to get it home. Damm!!! What else can I change to try and solve this shit ? .. I'm thinking of changing the Voltage Regulator next.. Any ideas ?
 
I had a xr600r that did this awhile back is why I suggest cdi box. Not sure how the huskies are with these types of failures.
 
sometimes its as simple as the plug have you changed it? Had a bike do the samething and it turned out to be the plug looked good an ran good until it was hot.
 
Now the ADC is broken.. The e-starter can't spin the crank around once.. Just hits the compression stroke and stops.. I can hardly kick it through...
Now I need to pull the valve cover and see if there anything loosen there… ? I'm really getting tired of this European babe...
 
Now the ADC is broken.. The e-starter can't spin the crank around once.. Just hits the compression stroke and stops.. I can hardly kick it through...
Now I need to pull the valve cover and see if there anything loosen there… ? I'm really getting tired of this European babe...


You might wanna check your starter brushes, I had the same problem as you and I spent $100 on my ADC then 1 week later, no starter at all, and I found this:

HuskyStarterShot_zps9bb75a8b.jpg
 
Thats was the first thing I checked and it looked great.. No issues.. I thinking the ADC cam is stuck or broken..


Lean the bike to the right as far as you can as you thumb the e-start, this will test the ADC spring, to see if it's weak and not holding the ADC in the proper decomp position, also, listen for any clicking sound.
 
So I finally got around to pulling the valve cover and checking things out.. The ADC spring and cam all look fine and it clicks the valve open as it should on the compression stroke. WTF ? So I checked Valve clearance.. Its pretty sloppy. Left Exh. = .011", Rt Exh. = .010", Left Int = .008" Rt Int. = .008" Should be Exhaust .008, Intake .006" Question to those who are a lot smarter than me with Husky's…. Will excessive clearance cause the ADC to not release enough pressure and cause the starter to overload… and can the loose valves also cause the motor to quit after it gets hot? like after 10-15min of riding? If so than I found the smoking gun… ! Now to figure out how to change out those shim caps w/o pulling the motor..
 
.010 can cause the ADC not to work, I shimmed mine to .006 when I was having problems.

Loose valves, IMHO, wouldn't cause the engine to stop after getting hot. Next time it gets hot and stops running, pull the plug and check the spark. There have several guys who had heat related stator/pickup coil failure.
 
Can someone confirm the correct valve shim diameter I need.? I haven't pulled them yet..
I think they're 7.48 OD.. Looking at a Hotcams kit on ebay..
 
I don't know Huskygirl… But've been known to date a few husky girls…
All I can tell you is I have an '07 TE250 with the newer black & red colors and it has the 7.48 OD shims. So I hope this solves the ADC issue and some.. Ever hear of valve clearances OPENING up like that? weird...
 
I installed the new 2.35 shims in on the exhaust side which now give me just barley .008 gap each.. I decided to check the Intake side and found this .007 and .009… I must have measured wrong the first time around.. I'm ordering more shims (2.35) to get those back in spec. I just might be the issue. If the valves were so far out that together they might cause the hot temp issue and the high compression problem when cold.. I really don't know at this point, but I need to get the mechanical stuff in spec first and see whats what…. Does anyone know if these valves are steel or Magnesium ?
 
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