2007 te 250

[midengineracer]

I am getting this bike later this week. It has a BB 300 on it and larger tank but I don't know much past that. I don't even know if the guy has the owner's manual, I need to E-mail him again.

I have ordered the 7602 oil change bolt kit, hydraulic clutch piston, and T6 carb filter.

So the things I need to know from here:

Probably; how to change the oil (I don't see it in a technical section on here)

What tuning is recommended for the carb? I hope some has been done, but I won't know until I get it here.

I know I need to run as much gas through it as possible (is it 91 octane?) to get good at riding the bike but what are some absolutely needed mods for the bike?

Can I get an electronic owner's manual? Perhaps through Husqvarna? Do they offer electronic maintenance manuals? (I have one for my BMW's, I generally like it better than paper)

Looking forward to learning more about the bike and using it above and beyond what my XR250 was capable of!

 

[midengineracer]

Coffee linked me to stuff on TT. His stuff and it was great, helped with the mod section and handling the idle mixture. Also protection stuff.

I have been trying to check the Husky site for manuals (the guy does have the owner's manual for me) but either Husky is really a popular bike and their site can't handle their popularity, or they only allow one person on at one time!

Other questions are still pertinent...

 

[Coffee]

I have a 2006 TE250.

Some highlights:

1. The engine got stronger and stronger until... maybe 700 miles
2. The suspension takes about the same amount of miles to break in
3. I highly recommend getting the suspension done, I had mine lowered 1.5" which was too much, and re-valved. Even if you are tall, you would benefit from it.
4. Fuel.... I use the highest octane pump gas available locally, which is not that high of an octane. To prevent fuel from going bad I use Stabil, you may have better fuel where you are, or are planning on riding more than I can.
5. I keep trying different oil...
6. Barkbusters, are about the only protection I have.
7. I did get a carb vent filter from uptite, 7602 now makes one too - that makes a difference in keeping dust out of the top of the carb.
8. Front axle nut from uptite, Motosportz makes one too, I find extremely handy because the stock axle wrench that *should* come with your bike will then work for front and back axles
9. Other than that it is what to take in the backpack type questions for tools, spares, food...
10. 2006/7 were great years, if your hardware (bolts) seem not as good as they should be, you should consider replacing them, I've seen a few that were not that strong.
11. oh, and if the kickstand has not been modified, you may want to change it so it does not auto re-tract...

I'm sure there is more but my fingers are tired


I am sure someone can dig up an electronic owners manual, or try halls. Don't worry about tuning the carb, but I do recommend a JD kit, it may have one already.

 

[midengineracer]

Ending the auto-retract cr@p is at the top of my list!

I am going to go with the Zeta busters and built-in signals, that is the only thing I know I want that I haven't pre-ordered.
I was told by the owner that there is a skid-plate but he hasn't sent the pics yet. Depending on what I see, that might get added (there are big rocks here and I have bounced the XR off of them often...) to my listing.

I will probably add the 7602 cover with the oil sight-glass to my list of things.

Is there an oil cooler or something to add oil capacity?

 

[ghte]

I do not think you will need additional oil capacity on the 250. By all means get a skid/bash plate for the bike. I also recommend a rear disc guard.

 

[midengineracer]

I was thinking of the additional capacity because of the heat of the desert and my desire to ride slow, technical stuff, prefferably climbing and will probably be working the clutch. Depending on how it is done, it might help the bike if I do have to stop at a light (it's rare, but sometimes there is a light between trails I want to ride) since Husky doesn't want the bike to sit running even for short periods at a light.

I would rather go overboard at protecting the motor/not getting stuck in the desert in a sandy wash, trying to climb out with an overheated bike.

 

[Coffee]

It is possible some dakar huskys had oil coolers, but that is a rare modification. The 250/300 does not get that warm, and it holds 1.7L of oil, which compared to other bikes I believe is quite a bit.

Perhaps a radiator fan instead? Some have put on a fan.

 

[firebolter]

1.7 oil capacity is about .5L more than a KTM 450/525...you don't need more oil capacity. Your 250 holds as much as my SM610 and I have never had an overheating issue and I have ridden that bike on alot of really slow, tight technical stuff. It does have a fan on the radiator though.

 

[Louge]

Can I get an electronic owner's manual?

07 TE 250/450/510 manual
http://rapidshare.com/files/67742741/Husky_shop_manual.pdf.html

Ping me if the link is broken.

 

[midengineracer]

07 TE 250/450/510 manual
http://rapidshare.com/files/67742741/Husky_shop_manual.pdf.html

Ping me if the link is broken.

Cool, thanks!

As far as oil cooling and capacity, the capacity is the same as the XR's I am coming off of but they had a cooler (and were air cooled). As far as I am concerned, you can never have too much cooling capacity (just over-cooling).
Large quantities of oil is also how the modern car engine gets such extended replacement cycles on their oil (along with synthetic, they go hand in hand).

So if someone already has a solution to add an oil cooler, awesome. If not, I might have to add fans. I am pretty sure I will be adding temp stickers at least.

Oh, and I rode one of those 525's yesterday. Freakin' awesome.

 

[Slowpoke]

Unless you are getting stuck in 2ft deep mud holes on long uphills in Death Valley in the middle of July, you simply don't need any add'l cooling capacity on this bike. I suggest not wasting any time in fooling yourself into thinking otherwise.
The XR's had oil coolers because they had to, simple as that.

The TE 250's are almost impossible to overheat; assuming the rads are clean and in good shape, the water pump is working, and the cooling system is full of decent coolant. Putting a proper 'Y' in the return split between rads will make the system more efficient and bring you piece of mind.

I have 313+ hrs on my 07 and I've tried many times unsuccessfully to overheat it.

 

[Kevin_TE250]

It is possible some dakar huskys had oil coolers, but that is a rare modification. The 250/300 does not get that warm, and it holds 1.7L of oil, which compared to other bikes I believe is quite a bit.

Perhaps a radiator fan instead? Some have put on a fan.

+1 on the Fan.... I've overheated mine a couple of times.. tough technical rock strewn uphills... Oil capacity should be fine... If you want a little more... get Clay's (7602) clutch cover for the rekluse with the sight glass...

 

[ghte]

Mate as said earlier do not get fixated on oil temp. The 250 have the same oil (bottom end actually) capacity as the 450 and 510's. I ride in Oz in the summer, its bloody hot here and I am a heavy 265 dressed and ride steep ST. Have yet to boil the 450 or my previous 510. I have the original radiator cap (1.1) I have not yet to boiled. As already stated make sure you have clean radiators, an uptite Y junction piece (as against the OEM T piece) and are using something like Ice coolant. Just go ride the beast and enjoy her, I would not even worry about a fan imho

 

[midengineracer]

How many have been stuck on a hill, slipping the crap out of the clutch to only go 200 feet in 15-20 minutes? (Really nasty section and a bad day for me)
Regardless of that, you are still missing that longevity of the oil has to do with capacity as well as heat build up.
I am not hung up on it, but I am looking for it. So far there is a lot more naysaying and a lot less answering the questions.

Thanks to Coffee, Louge, and Kevin_TE250. And GHTE. The Y-pipe is on my list, I just forgot to mention it; I will also look into getting Ice coolant again (I used it in my YZ but it still got pretty hot).

Everyone else, more advice about my questions and less about 'nah, not needed'.
In general, the bike isn't going to need anything I am planning to do but it is what I intend to do anyway.

EDIT: I forgot to thank GHTE...

 

[Coffee]

Check the small diameter radiator hose, about the size and quality of the fuel line, between the 2 radiators - that is un-reinforced fuel line. You should replace it.

I took mine down to the auto parts store and they had re-enforced radiator hose that same size.

 

[midengineracer]

Cool, thanks. I hope Checkers has some of the right size hose here as well (they don't have some really common things sometimes).

 

[Coffee]

You should seek out a *real* auto parts store, the ones that know what they are doing as opposed to a massive chain of stores where they will hire anyone. It will pay off.

The one I went to has some pretty good people, I've no idea what a Checkers store is.

 

[midengineracer]

You should seek out a *real* auto parts store, the ones that know what they are doing as opposed to a massive chain of stores where they will hire anyone. It will pay off.

The one I went to has some pretty good people, I've no idea what a Checkers store is.

Think Kragen, I think they are even related on the corporate level (I am pretty sure Kragen is in your area).

My choices are limited for close stores. Checkers is it. IF I go all the way into town I can use Autozone, Napa, and BAP (import shop).
Napa seems to be my better shot most of the time. (Next closest at 25 miles)

Jim Bob's parts and stuff seems to have gone out of business around here, too many cheap people that don't care about quality of employee (some of the chains have good employees though, I try to remember which ones are the best).

 

[Slowpoke]

Other things that should be done(if not already done);

Bypass the clutch safety switch- Can be done by joining the connectors beside the left rad.
Pull the rear suspension apart and do a full maintenance on it; clean and check all bearings, grease fittings/passageways etc. pack everthing with new grease(or grease mixed with anti-seize) to overflowing.

Do the same to the steering head.

Pull the wheels off and pack grease/antiseize into the empty space between the axle seal and wheel bearings. Doing this once a year will allow your wheel bearings to last almost forever.

Go thru the complete bike and check every single visible bolt/screw for looseness. Keep a bottle of blue loctite handy for this.

Put rad braces or guards on the bike, if not already equipped.

Re-route the carb vent hoses under the tank - if they aren't already done.

Lube the throttle cables & throttle tube with ATF

Check the valves. Adj. as necessary.

All these preventative maint. items will save you a lot of grief & $$ later on.

 

[midengineracer]

Blue loctite. Starting to sound like a KLR!

Does the clutch safety switch fail often or something? I tend to leave stuff like that alone unless it creates a problem.
Does this bike have a kickstand kill switch?

I have the T6 carb filter and hose to do the re-routing, that is part of the stuff I thought would be safe to presume was not done on the bike yet (didn't cost too much if I was wrong).

Is there a place to put a zerk fitting to lube the steering head? I thought I saw something about that but can't find it/remember if it is for this bike.
Along those lines, has anyone put in zerk fittings for the rear suspension (nice feature on the old XR, kept her from groaning too much)?