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2007 sm610 jetting question

Seanp0216

Husqvarna
C Class
Hey guys, I'm new to the forum. I've had my bike for a few months now. Coming from a drz and I love this bike. It's a 2007 sm610 carb version. It has the Leo Vince full exhaust on it and all the smog stuff removed. I bought it like this and have not touched the jetting at all, neither did the previous Owner. The bike seems fine but I would like to know if I could gain any advantage if I bought a jetting kit and tuned up it properly.

The only mod is the Leo Vince exhaust, I'm at sea level in the Bay Area of California, USA. I was wondering if any of my fellow husky boys would have any tips or suggestion on what specs I would need, as in pilot and main jet along with needle clip position. I thank all of you guys in advance! Any thing helps!image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg
 
Try these settings.
.
main jet--------178 If you modify the airbox cover and aren't running the sparky you might try a 180
pilot jet-------- 45
starting jet---- 85
main air---------200
low air ----------100
needle----------JD red Or a OBDVR Keihein they are virtually the same thing.
position--------- 4 from top
mixture screw ---- 1.5 out Mixture screw is a Zyp Tye Racing type with extended reach.

I don't remember the sz. of the leak jet that I installed, I believe it was a number 60.

I am using the heavy O-Ring.

Hope that this helps. I'm real happy with this set up, it gets a bit over 40mpg and is crisp as a soda cracker all the way to the rev limiter.
 
Try these settings.
.
main jet--------178 If you modify the airbox cover and aren't running the sparky you might try a 180
pilot jet-------- 45
starting jet---- 85
main air---------200
low air ----------100
needle----------JD red Or a OBDVR Keihein they are virtually the same thing.
position--------- 4 from top
mixture screw ---- 1.5 out Mixture screw is a Zyp Tye Racing type with extended reach.

I don't remember the sz. of the leak jet that I installed, I believe it was a number 60.

I am using the heavy O-Ring.

Hope that this helps. I'm real happy with this set up, it gets a bit over 40mpg and is crisp as a soda cracker all the way to the rev limiter.

I appreciate your response!

So I ordered the jd kit for this and it says to put the 180 main jet and the 45 pilot with the red needle at #5. All the kit came with are the main jets, the 45 jet and the 55 leak jet along with the needles and o rings. I'm not sure exactly what you say when you mention the starting, main, low jet. Where can I get those?

And do you recommend putting holes in the airbox? How
Much of a difference would it make?

Thanks again for your response, I appreciate it!
 
Check to see what jetting your carb came with before you go out and buy all the various jets, it may be pretty close already. If you need to make changes you can get what you need from Sudco. So far as opening up the air box, I did it but I cant say that it made enough of a difference to feel it in the seat of the pants.
BTW, that is a very sharp looking bike:thumbsup:
 
Check to see what jetting your carb came with before you go out and buy all the various jets, it may be pretty close already. If you need to make changes you can get what you need from Sudco. So far as opening up the air box, I did it but I cant say that it made enough of a difference to feel it in the seat of the pants.
BTW, that is a very sharp looking bike:thumbsup:

Thanks man! Another thing I did notice, is with the current untouched set up that I have now, if I'm at idle and twist the
Throttle fast, it dies. Could that be the main jet is too small?
 
Thanks man! Another thing I did notice, is with the current untouched set up that I have now, if I'm at idle and twist the
Throttle fast, it dies. Could that be the main jet is too small?
Its probably the accelerator pump not keeping up with fuel demand. The little "O-ring trick" that JD supplies with the jetting kit will likely take care of that. The accelerator pump on your carb has a dead spot in the linkage that was intententionally built into it for emission reasons. The o-ring trick works but it will decay and need to be replaced periodically. There are other ways of getting rid of the dead spot, I think Merge racing has a different spring that holds the ac pump lever tighter to the pump cam but most people just replace the o-ring frequently.
 
Its probably the accelerator pump not keeping up with fuel demand. The little "O-ring trick" that JD supplies with the jetting kit will likely take care of that. The accelerator pump on your carb has a dead spot in the linkage that was intententionally built into it for emission reasons. The o-ring trick works but it will decay and need to be replaced periodically. There are other ways of getting rid of the dead spot, I think Merge racing has a different spring that holds the ac pump lever tighter to the pump cam but most people just replace the o-ring frequently.

So last night I opened her up and installed the jets that JD gave me, they forgot to include the 45 pilot :( so I have everything installed but that jet. I gave them a call today and D was super nice and told me she would ship one out today. I also checked my spark plug and it was hot white. So that gives me up that putting the bigger jet will smoothen everything out
 
Its probably the accelerator pump not keeping up with fuel demand. The little "O-ring trick" that JD supplies with the jetting kit will likely take care of that. The accelerator pump on your carb has a dead spot in the linkage that was intententionally built into it for emission reasons. The o-ring trick works but it will decay and need to be replaced periodically. There are other ways of getting rid of the dead spot, I think Merge racing has a different spring that holds the ac pump lever tighter to the pump cam but most people just replace the o-ring frequently.

Good news, I installed everything, bike pulls in every gear. The only issue I'm having is that it will idle and then it dies, or if I give it has while idling then it does aswell. Does that have something to do with the fuel screw? It's at 2 turns right now

Thanks!
 
The only thing I can think of is that there might be dirt in one of the fuel circuits.

So I tried to adjust the fuel screw today and the problem still exists. I took my spark plug out and it's hot white, the whitest it can be. Idk how that is possible if I went from a 172 to a 180? Dropped the pilot to 45 from the stock 50. Any ideas? I'm pretty sad right now
 
Spark plug readings can be misleading when burning gas w/alcohol.
Does the idle come right down when you rev it in neutral?
If it idles right down, there is no sign of pinging and the bike starts and runs good, I wouldn't worry too much about it.
 
Spark plug readings can be misleading when burning gas w/alcohol.
Does the idle come right down when you rev it in neutral?
If it idles right down, there is no sign of pinging and the bike starts and runs good, I wouldn't worry too much about it.

It fluctuates about 3-400rpm give or take, the problem is, it just dies randomly. When I cold start it idles fine and I go and warm it up and it seems fine and once it's warm the idle starts acting up
 
You may have dirt in the low speed circuit. Have you tried raising the needle?

I currently Have the carb apart and am blowing everything out. What would be the benefit from changing the needle from #5 to #4?

I appreciate you taking your time for this.
 
In addition to all the above make sure that you haven't missed something that is causing you a vacume leak. A cracked intake manifold or a disconnected line could be the culprut.
 
In addition to all the above make sure that you haven't missed something that is causing you a vacume leak. A cracked intake manifold or a disconnected line could be the culprut.

Will do, another thing I thought of, would it maybe help if I put the 50 pilot back in?
 
Will do, another thing I thought of, would it maybe help if I put the 50 pilot back in?
I think between what JD gave you and my settings you should be right in the hunt for the best possible jetting. I woulld stick to trying to find a problem rather than compensateing for a potential problem with jetting. Like Xcuvator said spark plug reading can be a bit deceptive with todays fuels. A quick ceck to see if your too lean or to rich is to try running with the chock on and see if it improves. If not try running with the hot start on and see if it gets any better. If it gets better with the chock then you have a lean condition which could be a plugged fuel circut or vaume leak. If it runs better with the hot start on then you probably have a float theat set wrong, stuck or, the needle and seat are leaking by.
 
i spoke to reece at husky sport recently about rejetting my 610 after fitting new dual straight through akrapovics and he said they generally go to a 180 main jet and leave everything else as is when fitting a performance pipe.
 
I currently Have the carb apart and am blowing everything out. What would be the benefit from changing the needle from #5 to #4?

I appreciate you taking your time for this.

Sometimes a lean needle can cause unstable idle after running hard because of the high temperature.

Be sure to pull the idle mixture screw and of course the pilot jet. Then find the little lowspeed passage on the engine side of the slide. Blow back and forth between the three of them alternately holding a finger over one of them to direct the pressure.
If you hold a clean white rag over the one the air is escaping from you will be able to tell if come crap comes out. I had a Dellorto once that I had off the bike at least 6 times before I saw a spec on the towel when I was blowing.
 
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