• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc 2006 WR250 (re)Build Thread

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Starting to come together.
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Very funny Kelly.........and you know what I mean. ;)
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Sweet carb
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TBT revalved and shortened the shock to net 1" less travel at the rear wheel. The owner of this bike is 6'2" and it was still too tall for technical riding. I have always felt these bikes, especially '06- present were too tall. There will be a corresponding change I will make to the front to keep things level. We'll see how it works.
 
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Starting fork disassembly for rebuild/revalve. Turkey Day festivities may stall my progress at this point........
 
Discovered the TE449/511 front fender will not work with the EE radiator braces- Bummer!! Good thing I found out before opening the braces for my 165.....I will have to return them. Kelly??? Radiator guards???????????
 
How are you going to handle lowering the front? Is there enough clearance to the fender/pipe/rads to just slide the forks up in the tree?

Lowering a shock is really easy, just put a spacer under the seal head. Lowering forks is quite a bit harder. In theory you can put a spacer inside the cartridge at the midvalve (next to the top-out spring), but you have to reduce preload somehow, and if the bike doesn't have preload spacers, you're stuck doing some non-trivial machine work to move the spring seats...

I've thought about dropping my WR 1/2 an inch, and just sliding the forks in the tree up front. Any more than that and I think you've got to start modding things...
 
You are right Kyle. I think it will be easier to just slide the fork up as much as I can in the clamps. These bikes seem a little rear- high and if I can get 1/2-3/4" I think I will be fine. If not I will be disassembling them again...... Did this on an RFS KTM and had excellent results. I will dig into it a little further before I decide.
 
If that has the Shiver 45's on it, it probably has preload spacers (pictures look like it does too). If so, you should be able to put a travel limiter behind the midvalve, and then reduce the preload spacer length by the same amount (or a bit less if you want less sag with the reduced travel). I am doing some work on my brother's TE410 with the same forks this weekend, let me ask him if he wants to lower the bike and maybe we can fab some stuff up. Stay tuned!

I don't know much about the chassis geometry on that generation 250. I know that on my 610 (same forks), it has way too much rake already, so lowering the rear without lowering the front would be a really bad idea.

On the KYBs in my WR, there isn't a preload spacer, so reducing the fork travel requires you to be a bit more creative in order to get the preload/sag correct. Bummer!
 
ummm i lowered my 360 about 1 1/2 inches and left the forks where they are its more stable at higher speeds. i also cut the foam out of the seat...
just run it and see if you can actually tell the difference...
 
Hoov what sort of paint did you use on the engine, want to repaint mine but not sure about the best paint for longevity? I think I read in another post that someone powder coated theirs but I thought powder coat had to be baked on? Anyway can anyone help me to choose the best paint for the job please.
 
Kyle,
I will send you 4 pistons next week, as well as the stacks from the '06.

If you fab some travel limiters for the front end, let me know- I would be interested in a set.

Mike
I'm really liking this thread and I'm looking forward to learning more of the process you are going through.
I have three sets of 45s with Riders Edge base valves and stacks in that I'm happy with but have been thinking of lowering (30"in seem) for tight stuff. :thumbsup:
 
Do you still have the stock carb and do you want to sell it That carb works best for me so let me know also the stock gas tank
 
PM me what you want for the stock carb and I will send you some money I tried a Lectron and for me it did not work went back to the 2006 carb Even my 2010 Wr runs a 2006 stock Carb
 
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