• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

2006 TE250 Need Help Floating Ground on Stator

bike_pilot

bike_pilot

Husqvarna
AA Class
Trying to convert this bike to 12v dc. I have floated the ground on the stator correctly I believe. Using a trail tech REG/REC but wondering why this bike has a capacitor on it? Currently working with trail tech trying to decipher the difference between the KTM 2k3 stators/wiring harness and the Husky's. Thought I would ask here also.

Anyone have some experience with this conversion? I've searched for a day and really come up short for the Husky. Plenty of KTM info though.

Currently all lights flicker and dim under throttle and battery is not charging.
 
Not sure why the cap is there. I think it has to do with smoothing current spikes from the starter.
The stock bike should have a reg/rec for charging the battery and the lights run directly off the ac stator, same coils. Not sure why you would change the current system setup?
Why not just simply wire the lights to the battery if you really want dc lighting? Might not like having two regulators on the same circuit. Funny things will happen.
 
Flash319 said:
Not sure why the cap is there. I think it has to do with smoothing current spikes from the starter.
The stock bike should have a reg/rec for charging the battery and the lights run directly off the ac stator, same coils. Not sure why you would change the current system setup?
Why not just simply wire the lights to the battery if you really want dc lighting? Might not like having two regulators on the same circuit. Funny things will happen.
Click to expand...



Removed original regulator and replaced with trail tech unit. Charging circuit does not put out enough to run 40 watts of led lights and charge effectively. That was the reason for floating the stator in the 1st place. I will update when trail tech gets back to me. If you were to purchase a trail tech stator upgrade and reg/rec it would come as a dc output stator only. I'm just re-using my stock stator. The ac circuit originally put out 50 watts. Not even enough to run the 55 watt h3 bulb in the X2 headlight.
 
Thumperama said:
The Trailtech stator upgrade kit converts your system to a DC only system. At least it did on my TE300.
Click to expand...

Yes I understand that. But I'm not using their kit and they no longer sell it anyway. So I'm left with figuring out from a schematic what to do as trail tech couldn't shed any light on the wiring or they way to make it work.
 
bike_pilot said:
Just working on reg/rec now.
Click to expand...

Use Trail Tech Reg/Rec 7004-150RR and follow the above pdf procedure for just the alternator ground lift.
Cut off the stock reg/rec on the right side of the bike mounted to the frame behind the right fork tube near the radiator.
You will have a white wire and a yellow wire coming from the stock reg/rec. Those plug into the trail tech reg/rec yellow wires in any order (doesn't matter which yellow from the trail tech reg/rec the white plugs into).
The red and black from the trail tech reg/rec use the stock reg/rec red and blue respectively.

I mounted the new reg/rec near the battery as it won't clear the fork tube at full right turn in the stock position.

There is a 16 awg yellow wire coming from the handle bar cluster. I traced it back to the harness under the fuel tank. Before you cut the wire, make sure it is the correct one! There are 3 or 4 yellow wires in that harness. The one you want is larger than the others but still, use an ohm meter to make sure. There are a couple of connectors along the path that you can see the yellow wire in and get a ohm meter lead into to verify. Cap off the portion going to the rear off the bike This wire is hot when bike is running so make sure you seal it off well. Attach a connector to the side going to the handlebar cluster and connect it to the trail tech reg/rec red and yellow wire.
What this does is provide power to the head light, tail light, turn indicators and horn for up to 30 seconds after the kill switch stops the motor and provides overall dc power to all those lights. Works like a champ! I show 14.1 or 14.2 at the battery while running using a 55 watt halogen in the trail tech X2.
 
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