• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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    Thanks for your patience and support!

2005 TE250 - need help - have top end ticking

bull183

Husqvarna
hi all, i'm new to the site, I recently bought an 05 te250 with the Athena 300 kit that was blown up, I just put a new 300 kit in it (cylinder/piston). the crank is tight, no play in the rod at all, I adjusted the valves and they are in spec, everything looks good. the bike started right up and runs great - EXCEPT - it has a loud ticking noise. it sounds like it's coming from the top end, near the cams, right side. it's loud on the decompression side. does anyone know how that decomp works, has this been an issue before? i'll try to post a video - thanks
 
Well, it turns out some owners habitually turn down the idle [thanx to Jonxx for this hint]. This causes the ADC to semi kick-in, which may be what you're hearing. does it go away with more rpm's?

Check your manual to see what it should be. I would *guess* that your idle should be around 1700rpms or higher; but I do not know (my 310r is 1950 IIRC).

A mech's stethoscope is a real big help. cheap.

Welcome to CH and good luck.
 
thanks trenchcoat, the idle is high and the bike has a manual decompression, it doesn't go away when I rev it, it gets louder. I tried to upload a video from my iPhone but it won't let me
 
Yeah sounds like cam chain or sticking cam chain tensioner, need to no if the ticking gets louder faster with revs or goes away etc.......
 
I took the top end off last night and found the exhaust valves were just barely hitting the piston, I don't know why, the timing is perfect and the valve clearance is .007 - 008 which is right in spec.
 

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I took the top end off last night and found the exhaust valves were just barely hitting the piston, I don't know why, the timing is perfect and the valve clearance is .007 - 008 which is right in spec.
 
Well, good work. And too bad.

How sure are you about that valve timing? Some models are hard to read and others reportedly have had the timing marks mis-marked.

Any head work or missing gaskets?
 
I have all the marks lined up perfectly, I thought that would be good enough. I don't think there's any head work, it doesn't look like anything was altered, all the gaskets are there. I bought this bike recently without it running and didn't get any of the history for it
 
wow. hope you solve that soon. ...and I would've been thinking rod bearings, but it seems you've eliminated that. (I don't think I'd run that bike any longer until it's solved either).

kind of a mystery. wrong exhaust cam maybe? (could you try retarding advancing the exhaust cam one tooth perhaps? trying to get the exhausts to close a schoosh earlier. unless the valves are hitting the piston on the down stroke, I guess) Wrong piston? stroked crank? milled head is still a possibility if you don't know the history of the bike... any machining that you can see?
 
Well, good work. And too bad.



How sure are you about that valve timing? Some models are hard to read and others reportedly have had the timing marks mis-marked.



Any head work or missing gaskets?



there doesn't appear to be any head work, how do I make sure that the timing marks are correct?
 
just a thought is the automatic decomp ok sometimes the springs can break or become weak.
 
there doesn't appear to be any head work, how do I make sure that the timing marks are correct?

I'm not sure, maybe using a degree wheel. sometimes, intake and exhaust cams are mirrored. I do know that the timing marks can "look" like they're correct but be off by a tooth on some bikes.

someone (OlderHuskyRider?) mentioned something similar at one time.
 
UPDATE ************************************************************************************************************************!! it's fixed, and it's running great. I had the timing wrong, LOL... I was off one tooth on both cams and I think the cam chain was off a little also, it helps to have the service manual, although the timing marks on the cams are really really hard to see. the new cam chain was on back order so it took a little time to get a new one. I got it back together today and it started right up, runs great. while I was waiting for parts, I cleaned up and lapped the valves, also put new valve seals in. now I'm just going to throw some tires on and try to get out for a ride - thanks for the help
 
the gearing is 14/45, it's not good for tight trails, I think the stock gearing is supposed to be 13/50, what does everyone run for gearing, i'm not going to be riding road, i'm more tight new England singletrack trail riding
 
I run 12/52, and 1st gear is almost good- but 6th is stupid slow. I'm considering 12/48.

Stock was 14/40.... totally unusable.
 
Mr. Trenchcoat85,
Hate to hijack the thread, but I'm about to get started on trying to sort an intermittent charging issue on my '11 TE310. Your contributions and writing to this forum are extremely welcome. You help remove the fear factor for many of us. Anyways, I know I'll want to ask a question or two, but I'm reading past threads about these issues right now. I'll start with the basics, checking the plugs, grounds, and wires with my eyes, first, but I was hoping to PM you, but I don't see how that's possible on this forum. My email is alfasteve@gmail.com. Talk soon, and thank you.
 
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