• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

2004 450 TE

firepro86

firepro86

Husqvarna
So im new to the husky scene with a 2004 450 TE, I've always wanted a husky and when the chance to own this one for $1200 fell into my lap I had to jump on it. The person I bought it from took decent care of it but it needs some love that im totally willing to give it. I did a poker run at Stoddard Wells CA last weekend which would've been a spectacularly ride on my newly aquired husky.......would've been being the key phrase. Thank god I took my Polaris Raptor 700 with me as a back up. I took the bike to the very trusted and overly recommended husky dealer in Pasadena CA and they were able to go through the carb and make it like new. It has a Makuni carb and Magura clutch. They went through the carb and bled the clutch. The mechanic rode the bike right up into the bed of my truck and when i got home i couldnt wait to ride it around my neighborhood. Ran great, I think it'd give a gazzel a run for its money. I charge the battery overnight, check the fluids, tire pressure everything is a thumbs up, ready to concur the desert. Get out tp the ride, register role if out of the trailer and no dice, tried the e-start, tried jumping it and nothing. Put it back on the charger and started it on the charger, let it run and warm up then jumped on to take it for a spin around camp and the second I put it in gear it cuts out, doesn't jump forward or anything just does and wont start. I let it sit, go do the run come back and jump on my husky and for it started, let it warm up again, give it a little gas when i shift into first and it shifts smoothly and so I go for a ride down the road and about a half mile from camp it just shuts off. Won't start, won't crank, NOTHING. So I push it back to camp uphill and through some whoops. My buddy and i pull the seat off and start checking everything and I have a 15amp fuse blown on the right side of the coil pack. I checked for bare wires and I haven't found anything yet.

Any suggestions on what might have caused the fuse to blow and also any suggestuons on the clutch adjustment, is there one? It feels like maybe the clutch isn't completely disengaging? Any help is greatly appreciated.
 
First thoughts are;
1. Battery is weak and does not hold its charge, suggest replacement.
2. Cutting out the way it is described, cou it be partial fuel blockage? Remove and clean fuel tap and check flow rate, make sure tank is clear of debris, install a clear inline fuel filter so you can always visually check you are getting fuel through.
3. If the clutch is dragging then maybe it is leaking, check fluid level in reserviour over time will confirm this. I think the only adjustment on the clutch is the lever positioning.
4. I always disconnect the battery wires before connecting charger, just in case I short it out and blow a fuse (old school habits)
5. If all above is ok, then start chasing down any damaged wiring, especially by the sounds of it the throttle position sensor on the carb and the gear position sensor on the gearbox. If all this checks out, then back to the shop I guess.
I have the same bike and would love to update but I just can't part with it. It is an awesome bke when you get used to it.
 
I will definitely go through the bike again and check for bare wires. It's getting fuel, I learned my lesson with my quad about not having a clear fuel hose. It was wierd I'm riding in 3rd gear and thr bike just shut off, no power to the push start and wouldn't bump start (gotta get a kick start pedal), as soon as I replaced the fuse it started right back up. Definitely looking into a new battery before the next ride. I'll fiddle with the adjustment on the clutch lever and see if that makes a difference. I really like the bike, when I was able to rode it, it felt great and handled wonderfully. I can't wait to get it running flawlessly and go romping through the desert. I will update as soon as I figure it out.
 
On my TC450, there was a bundle coming from the left side of the connector behind the battery and running towards the front of the bike. This bundle rubbed between the seat and a frame rail causing the 15amp fuse to blow. I could replace the fuse and the bike would start up again. But of course that fuse would be blown once again and the bike wouldn't start. Check this section well.
 
Awesome, thanks Jack. Im gonna pull all the plastics off tonight so that I can get a good look at everything.
 
So I stripped the bike down so I had a better view of the wires and I haven't found any bare wires. I was kind of hoping to find bare wires. I am however going to re-wire the after market headlight. It's got a running light, low beam and highbeam. It just didn't look right to me. Does anyone kbow if there's a headlight switch? This is wired to turn on when the bike is started and I don't like that.
 
My factory switchblock looks exactly like a standard honda unit. It is nothing special, you can get a replacement unit from www.ballards.cc or perhaps source a second hand Honda XR unit from the breakers. If your wiring system has been butchered by the previous owner, then cycle works offer a complete dual sport kit that is really neat, they are on ebay, search for "Dual Sport Enduro Lighting Kit".
 
Silverpilen, I checked the cluctch and the resevoir is full. I put it up on my work stand, started it and went to shift it in gear without giving it gas and it stalled out. I started the bike and gave it a little gas and shifted in gear and it went in but when I squeezed the clutch lever it didnt dissengage the rear wheel kept spinning. I adjusted the crew on the lever but nothing. Any ideas?
 
mmmm.....strange, starting with the simplest things first I would work through this list;

Clutch actuator;
- clutch reserviour full - ok
- check for any damage to the cable or oil leaks to see obvious signs of a blown seal at either end
- there is only one adjustment on the clutch, ie the clutch lever position, re-check this is ok (ie not all the way out)
- re-bleed the clutch to enure that there is no air in the line
- operated a few times and re-check for oil leaks

Gear position sensor (unlikely but...)
- check connections on the gear position sensor (GPS)
- check for damaged wires and good connection on the plugs

If all the above is good, then check for binding clutch plates;
- note : most bikes will turn the back wheel slowly whilst engine is running and in gear on the stand (mine does)
- stop engine stopped, put in gear, engage clutch, should be able to push bike back and forward
- the clutch will drag a bit however if rear wheel locks up, probably binding clutch plates
- clutch plates sometimes bind up if worn out or bike has been parked up for a long time
- sometimes just riding the bike will sort it out, otherwise pull the clutch plates apart and clean up or replace plates

BTW - Regarding earlier wiring questions, you need to google up and download the spare parts manual, it has a good wiring diagram that you can use to trace you wiring looms to make sure they are plugged into the correct places, especially if the previous owner has "modified" it.
 
Took the bike to the shop :-( didn't want to but I also didn't want to screw something up worse than it already is. And drum roll please.....slave plate was damaged and needed to be replaced. Every time I squeezed the clutch the fluid would just flow by the plate and there would be no pressure. $165 for the part and the mechanic and Erics husky in pasadena is gonna put it in for free and figure the headlight wiring out for free, cool guy. Keeps telling me he wants to buy my bike off me lol
 
Mate good luck with the bike I had an 06 450 -very similar and it was bullet proof and just had awesome grunt.
May I would suggest several things to help:
Use an iridium spark plug. Makes the bike start up quicker, especially in cooler months and I swear its gets better MPGs and runs cooler.
Another old school thing I always do (now on my 310) is put a cap and a half of fully syn. 2 stroke oil with each tank of gas. This does 3 things;
1, acts as a lead replacement and helps cushion valves-my 510, 450 and 2 310's have never been put of spec.
2, acts as additional lubricant for the top compression ring. Most bikes only have one comp ring. The exception being Yamahas and Huskies. This is not critical and is not "a have to" but once again I have never had a top end or piston/ring or bore issue. By the way the 2 banger oil is designed to burn so the bike will not smoke and the plugs do not foul.
3, 100% positive it acts as a fuel conditioner. Over time I have observed that the fuel lasts and stays fresh much longer.
Please enjoy the beast. PS I always use a lot of WD40 on the bike after a ride and wash. esp. on electics, cables, pegs etc.
 
That is the 1st year for that motor for Husky.

Keep in mind that they came with Ti valves which just did not last....kinda like the 2004 CRF250 Hondas.

Most have been changed to SS valves.
 
Thanks for the info guys. Took the bike out last weekend and rode it all over hell and back. Probably about 75miles of trsil riding and it ran like a stripped ass ape! Stomped a mud hole in my buddies kfr450, I'm loving the bike!
 
I went through this too. These bikes need a fresh, high capacity battery to crank properly. It is not enough just to charge an old one overnight. Go buy a real Yuasa battery. I don't recommend trying to save money on a aftermarket replacement here.
 
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