• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc 2000 WR360 Pipe guard and rebend

P

pollolittle

Husqvarna
AA Class
Well, I have ridden enough and fell enough on the left side that the left side of the exhaust has now wrapped around the edge and pushing on the radiator hose. Gotta rebend it. Any suggestions?

Can I leave it attached to the bike and pull or do I have to dismount it. It was attached when it bent. Just curious. Been rattling around in my head for a while and haven't figured out the best way to do it. I'm not looking to take dents out, just put the pipe back from whence it came.

The other confusing thing is, to start it no matter what, I normally have to lean it over to flood it and then 1,2 kick and tada fires right up. If no lean, it might be 10-20 kicks and might start.

Had the Husky dealer set the float level 1-2mm below level while the carb is upside down, I believe that is what he said. After first start, never gives any problem to start, all day long. Is this one of those UNIQUE Characteristics of this bike?
 
Doubt if it will straighten on the bike as it will hit the frame
I have a piece of tube thats a nice fit that I put in my vice put the exhaust over it and pull pipes back into shape, as yours has only gone inwards a good tug with your foot on the manifold end will soon get it back into shape
 
Thanks for the reply, I'm a little short changed in the common sense department, so questions to follow.
Sometimes I wish I was better at envisioning what people tell me. What do you mean it will hit the frame? I can't see where if I pushed on it, it would hit anything. There is nothing but free space in front of the pipe. This is the U shaped part of the pipe hanging out in the air on the left side. Heat or no heat?

Also, is there a pipe guard to keep me from crushing it everytime I forget how to ride.
 
I think I see what your saying ! you can try it on the bike but I never have any luck that way, as I see it (shame we cant) the mid section ie the fat part is againts the hose, I dont think that area will be the problem area it will of bent the thinner header area slightly so if you thke if off and find some thing that is a nice fit into the part that goes into the motor even a round piece of timber will do and then pull the stinger end away from the motor end slightly it will bend quite easily, there is no need for heat
Bloody hell its hard work trying to describe this :doh:
 
husky pipe crop.jpg You think I would have taken a pic. Maybe I try and see if I can post a pic, this evening. It is not the fatty part, the header pipe exits the motor and turns left, makes a 180 turn and goes under the header pipe and as it gets to the right side it goes into the expansion chamber, what I would call the fat part. The 180 horse shoe turn is what is bent or laid back close to the motor. Thanks for the try.

i attached a pic and YES it is tied to the back of a bunch of rolled hay on a big trailer. Couldn't stand the thought of leaving it home.
 
Dont want to use any heat around that :lol::lol::lol:
looks to be a case of a few well placed kicks to sort that one out, or try to find a place on the frame or motor to lever it away with a plank of wood :thumbsup:
 
So, you think just leave it on and bend back. That's kinda what I was thinking, I didn't want to create a horror story. Yes, and no heat in its location in the pic.:rolleyes:
 
I had a 2001 360 for one year, and at the end learned how to kick it (even with my skinny butt) from an old-skool open-class rider. Gas and choke on as normal. Put trans into 1st gear and rock forward and back 8-10 times. Find TDC and push lever just past this point (first and biggest resistance); move lever to top of travel and snap-kick it towards the back axle. If jetting is remotely close and fuel relatively fresh it will fire 1st or second kick.

I have a straight (w/minor dents) OEM/SEPS pipe if you need one. PM me.
 
no issues starting husky,foot on kickstart to tdc break compression and kick back not down! tada placelast is right, but the rock forwards thing never bothered with that.
p.s. my pipe was bent like that too buddy yes you can straighten it on bike but no point stressing i used a scaffold tube about three foot an just went gentle.

or take it off an put it on floor with your foot on its neck with tube in the u-turn and go gentle these things tend to go all at once when it decides to.

good luck
 
You're better off buying a new pipe.

If you want to try and bend out a few mill, heat it around the bend leading out from the exhaust port and diagonally down from that bend. You'll have to pull the pipe off and attach the the header bit to a vice...long flat or 1/2 steel tube bar and you and SLOWLY bend it out..if you bend it fast whilst both sections are cherry red (need to use an oxy), you could tear the pipe wide open - if you do tear it open slightly, you'll need to braze the tear (drill a small hole at the start and finish of the crack), and she'll good again.

Ditch the Mikuni and get a PWK !!!
 
38mm Keihin PWK (see the jetting DB for suggestion of needles/jet/slide #)
I've got a FMF Gnarly which l too will need to replace as the S bend touches the water pump hoses and l've bent them out that many times...the moon has less crators :)
 
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