• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc 2000 WR360 assist needed!

It's not uncommon for mechanic's to charge a bit extra to reassemble a engine especially since some else has disassembled - they don't know if all the parts are there or what damage may have been caused if the engine was taken apart incorrectly.

Are you change bearings and seals whilst you have it apart? Great time to do the full bottom end whilst it's apart?
 
I have the seals and gaskets on the way. Dealer doesn't think I need to replace the bearings unless a specific bearing has issues. Was wondering if the price to reassemble was high? The motor seemed to be missing small pieces but found in the bottom of the motor. So, either somebody had opened it before or parts are just failing. I wasn't getting the warm and fuzzy for everything being in there. Stuff just didn't seem like that was the way it was supposed to work. But I have no experience in this area. I just spent $100 in seals and gaskets so does the price go down, we'll see.
 
You'll find it's all labour...in Australia l spent close to 3k for a full bottom and top end rebuild, if l did it myself l probably could've saved 1 and bit K but without the tools and manual at the time, it was worth it taking to a trusted mechanic.

Sounds like you make have caught before something more drastic happening with pieces had come off which is more likely due to incorrect torque settings loosing bolts/nuts.
 
Quick delivery from Halls parts in hand on Friday. Evrything new, husky seals and gaskets and husky intake. I dropped it off yesterday morning and they said back to me by Friday. I tried to express my concern that I needed it back before then. They said they were waiting on parts. UPS in delivery mode. He said the rollers in the bottom were from a roller set in the gear box and were going to replace both sets. Said they were gonna clean up the clutch basket grooves, check the piston and rings, just continued to tell me they would check it out and make it like new. So, the saga continues. Should be interesting to see.
 
Need someone to explain reassembly of the rear swingarm. Looking at the parts diagram and it looks like there is nothing between the swingarm and the frame. Is that correct?
 
Anyone hook up lights to theirs? Looking at adding LED's lights for headlight.

So, got the motor back Wednesday two weeks ago. Figured while I had it out might as well pull the swingarm and check why the swingarm won't accept grease. Had to wrench the swingarm out of the frame and off the linkage. Upon further inspection of the swingarm notice that the right side boss for the zert was broken and cut off and a new hole with Zert fitting installed. This side would not take grease. Of course, the roller bearings are falling out and muddy grease throughout. So, order Swingarm bearing kit and linkage kit from Hall's. Got it on Monday and proceeded to put it all back together.
The parts diagram doesn't look like a bushing goes between the swingarm and frame. Confused and irritated so i posted the above looking for help. Luckily wallybean was online and willing to help through the instant messaging function on here. Thanks again WallyBean! However, I wasn't lucky enough to write your info down before my laptop shutdown, but I remembered enough of it.
Knocked out the old bearings and pulled the bushings with all the shoulders broken off. Install new bearings and find that the bearing race covers the new hole in the swingarm, so, no grease goes in. Anyway, put all the pieces back in the swingarm and line it up. Now, back to putting the motor in, stumble with it for over an hour, only to find that if you push the swingarm back a bit, it falls right in. AAARRGGGHH!!!
Pretty much everything bolts back together without a lot more drama. Took it riding for three or four days last week. Runs like a scalded dog. More bike than I have ever ridden. Pretty much hanging out following the wife and kids at idle. Bike never fouled out or loaded up the plug, etc. Same plug never pulled it. Just idled along like it was happy doing that. Probably ran a tank and a half at idle. Occassionally would hit a little stretch and open her up and get going. Really stable and quite enjoyable. Twist the throttle and go. Ran it through all the gears and everything seems to work. I need to pull a few more links out of the chain.
Now what do I do about the swingarm Zert?
 
Is there a Zert (Zerk) hole there or covered or none at all? You could drill and tap a new hole and fit a new fitting? Did you test the old grease nipple as it's quite possible it was blocked.
When l did the once a year lube, l found one blocked under swingarm so l cracked it and changed all the grease nipples.
PS don't be afraid to pump the grease in until it weeps from the bearing.
 
Yeah, I pumped a full tube of grease into one side and it ran all the way through the swingarm. Never did come out around the bearings. A new one was already drilled but the race covers it. Grease nipple is clean.

So, anyone tell me whether or not the yellow wire is regulated. Would like to add a set of LED lights and was informed the yellow wire is there to use for lights. Can I attach to the wire without adding anything else to regulate the voltage?

I may be searching wrong, cause I've looked all around and no luck, but I remember seeing it somewhere.
 
The yellow wire coming from the regulator? It's only regulated if the reg is working :)
If your manual (PDF) the electrical schematic is pretty straight forward and all you need is to look at the headlight loom as that all goes back into the switch block.
If you attach your LED straight from the main electrical wire, your lights are constantly on, l run an inline fuse so if the reg stuff's up, then fuse pops before a whole bank of LED's do?
PS: MSR voltage regulator is cheap and IMO beter than the OEM unut.
Re: grease nipple covered by race, you could try an ezy-out on the old fitting and reinsert a nipple into there?
 
ohmygewd said:
The yellow wire coming from the regulator? It's only regulated if the reg is working :)
If your manual (PDF) the electrical schematic is pretty straight forward and all you need is to look at the headlight loom as that all goes back into the switch block.
If you attach your LED straight from the main electrical wire, your lights are constantly on, l run an inline fuse so if the reg stuff's up, then fuse pops before a whole bank of LED's do?
PS: MSR voltage regulator is cheap and IMO beter than the OEM unut.
Re: grease nipple covered by race, you could try an ezy-out on the old fitting and reinsert a nipple into there?
Click to expand...

No switch block on US spec 2 strokes. Lights on all the time, unless you add a switch yourself.
 
Thanks, I'll have to go see where it is coming from. I'm pretty sure the alternator feeds a little round device attached to the frame under the tank. Then the yellow wire comes off of it. Thanks for the info. There is no key on it or switch item.
 
ohmygewd said:
Really? Even on the enduro models? Wow..it's normally us Aussie's who get the dick in the arse with things like these.
Click to expand...

Since '92, US spec 2 stroke bikes (4 strokes too, until '06)get the "Enduro Light Kit" in a box, not installed from factory. No brake light, no switch gear.
 
Norman Foley said:
Since '92, US spec 2 stroke bikes (4 strokes too, until '06)get the "Enduro Light Kit" in a box, not installed from factory. No brake light, no switch gear.
Click to expand...
Ahhh that make's sense now...the US importers in their wisdom thought "Well, they are just going to take it off and put MX stuff on it, bahh well just strip it for them"....thus creating another intepretation in the manual!!!

l wish that every motorcycle sold in the world were the same spec...make the f'in manual a lot less thinner :)
 
ohmygewd said:
Pull the brake line and blow it down as well do some maintenance on the brembo rear brake pins.
9/10 the gunk is water seeming in from the brake fluid reservoir as the seal may have a tear.
Once assembled, 10mins of bleeding and good as gold.

Please explain the pull the brake line and blow it down. Also, what do I need to do to the brembo rear brake pins. Seems my situation with the rear brake has gotten worse to where I dismounted my valiant steed due to no rear brake. Arrrggghhhhh!
Click to expand...
 
To clarify my Aussie english, take the brakeline off the rear caliper and from the rear master cylinder and blow it down with an air gun to remove all contaminate's from the line.
Check the rubber brake fluid reservoir seal which is under the cap, if that has a tear then you are likely to get water and air seepage from there.
Reassemble the brake line again and fill the reservoir and pump away. Note: will use a bit of fluid as it will need to fill the brake caliper and master cylinder.
Set the rear brake bias positioner so you get a full lever.
As you start to get fluid out of the rear caliper brake bleeder, keep pumping until the fluid reservoir is close to empty, with a large syringe filled with brake fluid attach this to the brake bleeder screw at the close position, push the fluid through enough to seep and then open the bleeder bolt and continue to push the fluid through looking at the reservoir which should start to bubble up as the air is pushed through.
Continue with traditional bleeding method until you get brake pressure.
If you don't get pressure and absolutely sure that there is no air, then you have an issue with the rear master cylinder seal - either order a rebuild kit or hunt down a second hand unit from WR ot TE's.

Re: Rear brake pin....the brake pin's tend to get a groove worn through them which causes brake drag.
 
Thanks for the clarification, glad to see we can overcome my southern Texas English and a light decryption of your Aussie English.

ohmygewd - thanks for being the perfect sounding board and all the others helping me out. I had to pull the caliper off and raise it up as high as it would go on the left side. Many, Many, Many sections of air bubbles coming through the system. Or should I say long sections of air without fluid coming through. First time since I've owned it since I have had a strong back brake. Thank you, thank you, and thank you!
The only thing left to do is figure out all the shock settings and possibly rebuild the front forks. Since everything else has been jacked on this machine, it is the only piece left that I can think of that I haven't inspected, rebuilt or replaced.

So, if you have any suggestions or procedures for rebuilding the shocks let me know, it'll be a first time like the rest of the bike has been.

Also, what clicks do you use for rebound and damping. I think I put them to stock settings and haven't figured out the way to test them to see the changes.

My eyebrows will probably raise when I see that I have been riding around on shocks that weren't right!

Going for another week trip riding in the woods of Kentucky, this Saturday!
 
pollolittle said:
So, if you have any suggestions or procedures for rebuilding the shocks let me know, it'll be a first time like the rest of the bike has been.

Also, what clicks do you use for rebound and damping. I think I put them to stock settings and haven't figured out the way to test them to see the changes.

My eyebrows will probably raise when I see that I have been riding around on shocks that weren't right!

Going for another week trip riding in the woods of Kentucky, this Saturday!
Click to expand...

Check out this post and it may help you out on the suspension side http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/suspension-issue-solved.19099/

Colin Edwards is one of may fave riders so l reckon l can get the Texan drawl....

PS. rear shock rebuilds are best left to suspension shops unless you have a nitrogen filler and bottle.
 
ohmygewd said:
You'll find it's all labour...in Australia l spent close to 3k for a full bottom and top end rebuild, if l did it myself l probably could've saved 1 and bit K but without the tools and manual at the time, it was worth it taking to a trusted mechanic.

Sounds like you make have caught before something more drastic happening with pieces had come off which is more likely due to incorrect torque settings loosing bolts/nuts.
Click to expand...

And the parts for the bottom of the 360 where did you found them ?
 
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