• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc 2000 WR360 assist needed!

P

pollolittle

Husqvarna
AA Class
This is a followup thread or follow on to the starting a 360 thread. I need more help than I thought or maybe not questions to follow.

Tranny oil only 3-4 hours on it and looked like when I changed it the first time after buying it. It looks like a pool of silver. Tiny metallic flakes that I am unable to feel between my fingers. The magnetic drainplug has a buildup of particles but once again, no hard chunks more like silvery sludge. Is this normal, not in my mind it isn't, but I'm asking? I have the right side cover off and I see no problems and no chunks in the bottom of case. Don’t feel anything loose.

Any ideas of where to go from here? I am unable to find a shop/service manual so possibly at a good loss of what needs to time up with what when I put it back together or even torque specs.
 
Can someone please let me know what their transmission fluid looks like when they drain it and how many hours on it? Talk to the dealer and he thinks should be no shiny stuff, should either be clear brown or just dark like automotive oil.
 
Shiny particles are metal. Either from the steel clutch plates or from metal on metal contact wearing inside the lower end.
Pull the clutch and inspect the plates and basket. If that's not it then pull the side cover and check the kick idle gear and gear shafts for wear.

My buddy had a 96 250WXC that the kick idle gear shaft started to wobble inside its mounting hole and it was causing all kinds of metallic shavings in the lower end.

Whatever it is, its best to catch it early.

BTW, I change my oil every 10hrs or so and its always a discolored greyish color, but never any metal particles.
 
Thanks for the info, the gear oil has been the greyish color, but more like metallic flake paint. When I pull the clutch what do you tighten it all back up to torque wise. The front cover on the clutch basket doesn't move out and away evenly, it moves the one side of the cover and then the other will move. Is it supposed to work like that? or should it move symmetrically?

Funny you should mention the kickstarter, the kick will seem fine sometimes and then others , it is like the teeth are sheared off and grabs like the edges of the gear, but doesn't turn the motor over on a full kick. Next kick grabs gears and turns the motor over. Reminds me of cars where the gear has been worn down and only engages in certain areas. Seems that might be where I will go looking next.

So, next step is to pull the clutch basket and go through it looking for problems and make sure within specs.
Then pull the right side cover and check the kick starter gearing and/or bearings.

Does that sound right?
 
That is what I would do.

Inspect the clutch plates, hub, basket and pressure plate for abnormal wear. Also, check the steel plates for burn marks and lay them on a piece of glass to check for flatness. Then I would pull the side cover off and check the kick idle gear. And check the posts that hold the gears and make sure they're not out of round and allowing the post to wobble. That's what was causing my buddies bike to show lots of metal shavings.

You wont have to split cases or drain the coolant (I dont think!?) to check these things. Hopefully you find what the issue is and wont have the split the cases. And post pics if you can.... it may help someone idfentify it now and it may help someone with the same issues in the future.

Good luck!
Hope its nothing serious.
 
I already had to drain the coolant to get the left side cover off. The dealer is telling me to split the cases and clean it out and see what is wrong. I don't see anything out of the ordinary. So, I'll see if i can find some micrometers to check the clutch and its plates. Not really sure what is entailed in splitting the case. Sounds like I just need to remove the motor out of the bike, to do that.

Before that I'll follow along with what you stated and see what that brings me to. Never pulled a clutch basket before, so any helpful hints would be greatly appreciated.
 
Wow Pollolittle, this is becoming a saga!!!​
​
Carefully read the manual and take it step by step, it's pretty easy to take the clutch steels and fibres and the basket but read and understand the manual especially the adjustment screw in the middle of the pressure plate?

If it was me, and depends on how much you want to keep the bike, l would go down the path of a full bottom end rebuild especially if l bought a bike that l just don't know how much work or care the previous owner's done...which is why your dealer is suggesting to split cases.

Again, depends on how long you want to keep the bike, a full rebuild will cost a little or some $$ but you will be know that the motor will be right for the next 10 years (depending on the owner).
 
Ok drama / aga continues. Got the motor ready to pull out of the frame but I have no idea how to pull the alternator / generator or maybe I'm looking at the flywheel. Anyway wires going down in the case on the right side. Looks like I have to pull the generator but it appears I need a tool. Pulled the outer nut off, and no wiggle, it doesn't budge.

That is the last thing left to pull it out of the frame. Then it is decision time whether I take it to the dealer to let him figure out the metal or whether I split the case first and see if I can figure it out.

Any ideas?
 
Just let your dealer pull the stator off? It should just unplug (follow the cable out the cover) from the connector and you can take the motor out?
You'll need a flywheel puller and make sure not to lose the woodruff key!!!
 
I followed it up to a connector, but it kept going to the cdi box. It looks like I would have to take the cdi also to him. That's what I figured, I need another tool for my collection. The woodruff key is just the timing key for the generator right. To split the case it looks like all I need to do at this point is to remove the jug and the case will split open. Doesn't seem to be much more, but I've been wrong before.

Are there any timing issues I need to be aware of? Or other things.
 
Got it figured out, followed the leads, one plug and a screw to the CDI. got it in the back of the truck to take to the dealer to pull the stator. Just having never been this far before, so pondering of whether or not to hand it over and let him rebuild the thing.

my first impression is to let him pull the stator and bring it back home and split the case to see if I can find the cause of a lot of my problems or made up issues.

The upside is I could hand it to him and it would hopefully be good for another 10 plus years, since I don't get to ride like some of you cats. I've had it a little over six months and part of that was over the winter, but I probably haven't put 10 hours on it. I'd like to have it up and rolling before I take it camping and riding in about a month, but we shall see.

Thanks for the help. Any other items let me know!
 
Alright got back from the dealer, he pulled the flywheel, no charge which is why I buy my stuff from him. He kinda looked it over and thought I could still split the case and clean it out. So, anything to replace or heavily look at while the motor will be on my shop table. So far so good, looks like I may be missing a washer.

Surely someone has disassembled this motor before.
 
While its apart check for wear and compare critical parts like the piston and cylinder for out of spec. The owner's manual will give most of the specifications you need.
Husqvarna WR360 017.JPG Husqvarna WR360 002.JPG Husqvarna WR360 006.JPG Husqvarna WR360 014.JPG
 

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  • Husqvarna WR360 013.JPG
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Screwed the pooch and stripped an allen head bolt. Boo hiss! Taking it to the dealer for help, got my ky I should be just a little uncomfortable. I have slack between the clutch basket inner hub and the drive sprocket, should there be? Seems those should be no slack.
 
Confirmed with the dealer no slack should be there. Couldn't get the bolt out gotta wait till monday to weld a nut on to break it loose. Then he banged away with a big hammer to split the case. Something that I would have been very hesitant to do! So, when he was a bangin away needle bearings started falling out, so somewhere in the gear case are a set of needle bearings falling apart. Looks like a few pieces are missing so gonna let the experts put it back together.
 
Dude wants around $500 to put it back together. Seems a little high since I tore it down, but his take is it would have been easier for him to put it back together had he taken it apart. I'm thinking it would be less money, cause I brought it to him separated for different sections of the bike, not just a pile of parts. So, does that sound reasonable? I was running out of time, need the motor back together by next week to make sure it works for the following week. Want to go riding for a week. Sounds like I should have done this over the winter. They think the intake manifold is breaking apart which is part of my problem, so none in stock at dealer or husky. Tech, didn't think it was worth riding or putting it back together without a good intake manifold. Frustration, thinking I'd a rather bought a new one, this is getting my nerve bundles irritated.
 
pollolittle said:
Dude wants around $500 to put it back together. Seems a little high since I tore it down, but his take is it would have been easier for him to put it back together had he taken it apart. I'm thinking it would be less money, cause I brought it to him separated for different sections of the bike, not just a pile of parts. So, does that sound reasonable? I was running out of time, need the motor back together by next week to make sure it works for the following week. Want to go riding for a week. Sounds like I should have done this over the winter. They think the intake manifold is breaking apart which is part of my problem, so none in stock at dealer or husky. Tech, didn't think it was worth riding or putting it back together without a good intake manifold. Frustration, thinking I'd a rather bought a new one, this is getting my nerve bundles irritated.
Click to expand...

Hang in there. It took me a while to get my 360 sorted out. Its long been forgotten now and once gone through, its been the best bike I've ever had.
 
Thanks, It started with the rear end and then the carb, then the motor particles, then, then, then, wow!

When I did ride it, it seems plenty gruntworthy, just one of those gut feelings that it ain't quite right. So slowly getting it done. I happened to find the intake manifold at Hall's, then I added on the gasket set and seal set $40 each. UPS shipping should be here probably Monday or Tuesday.
 
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