• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc 2000 WR 360 ?'s brakes, trans oil etc.

P

pollolittle

Husqvarna
AA Class
Trying to bleed the rear brake line, I have run probably close to half a quart through this thing. Getting clear liquid at the caliper, but leave it closed up and then the pressure drains off and the fluid goes black with a bunch of floating material. Should I replace the brake lines or rebuild the master cylinder first? Is there a way to figure out where all the gunk is coming from?

Also, is the trans oil just motor oil 5w or is there some other special elixir that goes in there, the book references 5w but I haven't figured out the AGIP SINT 2000 something like that?
 
Pull the brake line and blow it down as well do some maintenance on the brembo rear brake pins.
9/10 the gunk is water seeming in from the brake fluid reservoir as the seal may have a tear.
Once assembled, 10mins of bleeding and good as gold.

Gearbox oil, l use motul transoil 10w or castrol MTX or Silkolene 10w and Belray gearsaver..in other words anything @10w so long as you regularly change the oil - though Belray fresh feels the smoothes.

Good luck.
 
Pull the brake line and blow it down as well do some maintenance on the brembo rear brake pins.
9/10 the gunk is water seeping in from the brake fluid reservoir as the seal may have a tear.
Once assembled, 10mins of bleeding and good as gold.

Gearbox oil, l use motul transoil 10w or castrol MTX or Silkolene 10w and Belray gearsaver..in other words anything @10w so long as you regularly change the oil - though Belray fresh feels the smoothes.

Good luck.
 
The seal and the reservoir are clean and in good shape. The last time I tried bleeding, I pushed the rear brake pedal down open bleeder etc. When it felt good, I tighten everything up. Then while cycling the foot brake, it looks like air bubbles were coming up into the reservoir. Pumped it over and over, till no more bubbles going up. Seems to hold pressure for the last few days.

The way it currently sits there is no way to adjust for 5mm travel before engagement, it is more like an 1" inch, I even adjusted the nut on the back side of the arm to engage sooner. This is really kicking my butt, for some unknown reason, and all the local dealer keeps telling me is, "Just use common sense". I keep trying to remind him that I ain't got none.

I thought the book was calling for a 5w.
 
I don't have a 360, but have a 2000 WR250. I run ATF in my trans and that seems to make the clutch work better, and also made it easier to start in gear (but the 250 is probably eaiser to start in gear).
 
Got the brakes sorted out for the moment.

When I drained the trans fluid there seem to be a lot of shiny material suspended and the drain plug had a lot of metallic attached to it. Is this a sign of things to come or is it normal?
 
kzoo;129842 said:
I've run Amsoil, either 0W-40 or 10W-40 in my WR250... I think there's some other folks on here that run the 0W-40 w/ good results as well.
Click to expand...

Ditto, I also run Amsoil 10-40 db oil in a 360 and it runs flawless.....
 
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