• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

1996 610 Blowing oil out head vent

Since it will likely be several months before the weather warms up enough to ride, I am looking into giving it a try at resetting the magnets myself, before buying a flywheel. I have researched online where several people have done it themselves. IMG_1281.JPG

For reference, the deep hole magnet is at 12 o clock, the 3 magnets with the same polarity are at 6 o clock, as is the small hole in the side of the flywheel, and the keyway is at roughly 1 o clock.

The pic is sideways for some reason.
 
Hi,

Good idea, you may find the windings have or are failing as well.

I admire your patience!

I see according to the Husqvarna parts list the rotor and stator come as a set, there is a reason for that.

If one is failing the other can't be far behind.

To test the ignition, use a plug and cut off the ground strap, the little elbow thingy, earth the plug against the head.

If the ignition is in good condition, the spark should be able to jump from the centre electrode to the rim of the plug, which is at

least a quarter of an inch easily.

It is probably a 2 person job, 1 too kick or use your hand to turn the engine over fast and another to hold the plug against the head.

I have seen one where someone attached a alligator clip to the side of the plug.

Don't rotate the motor unless the plug is properly grounded, it could damage the ignition.

:)
 
I was able to remove the magnet ring, using a puller. The plastic broke in a few spots, but the ring and magnets are still intact.

IMG_1291.JPG IMG_1290.JPGIMG_1289.JPG
 
The corrosion is pretty significant inside the flywheel. I am kind of thinking buying a new flywheel may be the better route than repairing this one, but I will mess with it a little more.
 
Soaked the flywheel in vinegar for 5 days, and was able to remove all the rust. I reset the magnet ring with the leading edge of the first trigger magnet (of the three magnets in a row with the same polarity) at 156 degrees counterclockwise from the keyway. Still not getting any spark.

I tested the stator again, and it reads 4.1 at white/green (manual shows it should be 4.5) and 4.8 on the red/black (should be 5.7 per manual).

So the stator is definitely reading low, but only by about 10 and 19 percent from the proper figures. I would think that would be close enough to at least make a light spark.... And even assuming I got the magnet ring off by a few degrees, it should still spark - only the timing would be off.

I may go ahead and buy a new stator and flywheel this week.

Anyone have any ideas?

IMG_1358.JPG
 
Hi,

The ignition system must be in tip top condition, being down 10 and 19 percent is not good.

I don't know if this will help but others have said to run a earth wire from the stator plate up to a coil mounting bolt to make a proper

earth.

Run the wire inside the original wiring sleeve from the stator plate.

Otherwise you are relying on the earth going through the motor, engine mounts and the frame, to get the earth to the coil.

:)
 
Thanks, I will try that ground wire set up. I did some more testing, and when kicking over the engine, the exciter coil (red/black) is barely generating any voltage - less than 1 volt. In comparison, the pickup coil (green/white) is generating several volts easily when I kick it over. So I am fairly certain now, the stator is bad. It just seemed odd that the flywheel magnets would come dislodged, and the stator unit go out at the same time.
 
New parts arrived this morning, arrived in 3.5 days from UK, from time of placing order. The stator looked slightly different, had 2 poles for the pickup coil (green/white) instead of 1. However the pickup and exciter coils were in the correct orientation. I tested the new stator, and it read just over 7 ohms on each. Also, the original stator had a timing mark to align with the timing mark on the case - but no mark on this aftermarket. I did note the position of the original, and it was dead center in the timing slots. Mounted everything up, kicked her over and it was shooting lightning bolts from the spark plug. Got it running and appears to be running excellent.

So after its running like a champ, I decided to proceed with final assembly. I did not like the look of the flywheel key, so figured this is a good time to change it. However, it did not want to budge. After smacking it carefully with a screwdriver and hammer a few times, it sheared. I then spent over an hour with a dremel tool and fine cutter, very carefully cutting out the flywheel key. I eventually got it cleanly removed, with zero damage to the crankshaft. But, it was definitely like doing fine surgery, trying to only grind away the key and not the crank.


IMG_1410.JPG IMG_1409.JPG IMG_1404.JPG IMG_1408.JPG
 
I then used valve grinding compound and lapped the new flywheel to the crank. Installed new keyway, re-installed new stator, with loctite. I also added a ground to the stator plate as previously suggested. I decided to call it a day, all I lack is final wiring. If the weather cooperates, I will ride it this weekend.

The instructions indicated that on some models (this stator was used on several bikes, not just the Husky 4 strokes of this bloodline) that the colors of the stator wires may be backwards from original. So I initially just used butt splices and re-used the original plug-in. Turns out the wire colors were correct, so I will install the new plug directly to the wires and do away with the splice for final assembly.

And just FYI, the flywheel key is a regular metric keyway I got at the hardware store for $1.79.

But as of right now, I am pretty excited.

IMG_1412.JPG
 
One odd thing though - neither of my flywheel puller wanted to screw into the new flywheel after the initial install. I have 2 pullers, 1 new and 1 that i used an impact and forced into the original flywheel to remove it. The forced in puller now threads in properly into the original flywheel. Made me think the puller was just slightly oversized. However, neither the forced in puller, or the brand new puller act like they want to thread into this new flywheel. And they appear to the eye to all be the proper thread and pitch... Hopefully I never have to pull the flywheel again though.

In the one pic, I have removed half the flywheel key. After grinding, this is all that was left:

IMG_1406.JPG


The crankshaft is made of much, much harder material. I wish I could say I was so precise, I never touched the crank, but I did several times on accident. Never even made a mark. The flywheel key, on the other hand, almost seemed like aluminum it was so soft. Word of caution: Do not take that to mean you can be careless - I was extremely careful, grinding away for a few seconds then checking it out, tapping it with a chisel, the grinding away a little bit more - until eventually I got it out.

But this was likely the original keyway set in 1996, now 21 years ago. Perhaps the metallurgy of these newer cranks have improved, but I did research this site, prior to busting out the dremel, and I am sure this is a problem on the older Swedish Husky's being restored. So it seems to be a viable option for this problem - just take your time. Took me an hour, which really is not that long.
 
One more thing, the new flywheel has no timing marks. And also, the 2 holes on the flywheel are right at 90 degrees off from where the holes are on the OEM flywheel, relative to the flywheel key way. On the original flywheel, at TDC there was a timing mark which was centered just outside one of the flywheel holes. This new flywheel has the holes off 90 degrees, so I will need to mark the new flywheel for finding TDC for valve adjustments, decompresser adj, etc. All easy stuff.
 
Ride report: Rode the 610 today at the local mx track. Started 1st kick every time and ran flawless all day. Did not blow any oil out the breather either.

Its a lot of bike for a mx track, but worked suprisingly well.

Overall, These are just awesome bikes!
 
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