• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

1987 430WR

thats a spit n polish thing you can add some length to the actuator arm IF it wont mess up the cable where it go's in the housing its gotta be straight
 
Yeah mine is constantly sticking for the first 5 mins....I put a high pull pro taper clutch lever with bearing pivot and that works great. I have 80wt Maxima MTL in it now. Maybe I will switch to 75wt
 
Torben45 said:
Yeah mine is constantly sticking for the first 5 mins....I put a high pull pro taper clutch lever with bearing pivot and that works great. I have 80wt Maxima MTL in it now. Maybe I will switch to 75wt
Click to expand...

oil will help, but it will get worse over time. the solution for me was to get rid of the aluminum frictions. this of course is assuming that the inner basket adjustment is done correctly. so nice being able to let it sit for a month or two, fire it up and have zero clutch drag!
 
Torben45 said:
Also I've tried both VM and PWK on a bunch of my trials bikes and don't agree with the VM being better. More low end but thats about it.PWK much crisper and better fuel milage to boot. IMHO
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the "PWK much crisper" is what i was saying, the feel of crisper is throttle response of motocross, the round slide carb will give you a smoother power flow
there are throttle cams to smooth that out, so the VM was chosen for the enduro modelsandthe flat slide was chosen for the CR models, at least that was where the were headed
if your mileage on your VM is not as good as any other carb you need some more tuning, the needle jet definitely affects your mileage, there are so many different subtle changes on this part alone, tuning for CC, if the needle is changed enough you need to change the jet, i re-jetted mine and changed the needle jet, it was a bid deal, i went farther and had a perfect roll on throttle at pretty much any RPM and it helped a lot in the very tight stuff, it did affect the mileage a little
 
Good to see a stone fuel filter.

First check your float level. If it's too high it's flooding. Make sure your needle and seat is good.

I find the round slide 38mm mikuni carb, the slide needs to be in its lowest idle adjustment. The balance screw needs to be between 3/4 to 1 3/4 turns on the lowest idle. The size of the low speed jet determines this. If we turn the idle rpm screw in on the slide were pulling the needle up too giving it more gas trying to make it idle on the sleeve setting. When the balance screw is off with the pilot jet not being correct. It may take two or three pilot jet changes to get the balance screw within specs. We need to check to see how many turns on the balance screw, change the pilot jet, lower the sleeve idle screw and repeat till the balance screw is within specs. All this effects your starting circuit it has to be set correctly.

Once your pilot jet circuit is jetted and adjusted correctly the main jet is next. Last thing to adjust is the needle clip position.

Proper jetting isn't easy it takes understanding and patience.

My memory comes and goes I been away from this for 13 years. But it's coming back.
Old age sxxx's
 
Bigbill said:
Good to see a stone fuel filter.

First check your float level. If it's too high it's flooding. Make sure your needle and seat is good.

I find the round slide 38mm mikuni carb, the slide needs to be in its lowest idle adjustment. The balance screw needs to be between 3/4 to 1 3/4 turns on the lowest idle. The size of the low speed jet determines this. If we turn the idle rpm screw in on the slide were pulling the needle up too giving it more gas trying to make it idle on the sleeve setting. When the balance screw is off with the pilot jet not being correct. It may take two or three pilot jet changes to get the balance screw within specs. We need to check to see how many turns on the balance screw, change the pilot jet, lower the sleeve idle screw and repeat till the balance screw is within specs. All this effects your starting circuit it has to be set correctly.

Once your pilot jet circuit is jetted and adjusted correctly the main jet is next. Last thing to adjust is the needle clip position.

Proper jetting isn't easy it takes understanding and patience.

My memory comes and goes I been away from this for 13 years. But it's coming back.
Old age sxxx's
Click to expand...
arent you supposed to jet from the top down? main first? or it does not matter?
 
It doesn't use the main circuit to idle. I adjust the idle and pilot jet first after checking the float level. Once the balance screw is within range the main is next. Then the needle. If it's a tad off when the pilot overlaps just off of idle I may tweeking the balance screw a tad.

Once it's correctly adjusted and jetted for today weather wise. It can change from the morning to the afternoon. A tweeking of the balance screw fixes it.
 
Got the carb tuning ideas. It's better to start now and my buddy is recommending changing the needle as he did in his 430 auto. now it's starting about 3-4 kicks when cold and 1-2 hot. I have to say i'm loving this bike. It really has a motor that is perfect for off road riding. I've been riding for 37 years and it's one of my fav motors by far. :thumbsup:
 
The low speed balance screw location is different on the carbs they perform opposite things.

Mikuni it adjusts the flow of air, the screw is at the rear of the slide body.

Delordo it adjusts the amount gas flow the screw is in front of the slide body.
 
Torben, Here is how I get around the clutch sticking thing and it works everytime. When you get the bike started and you are warming it up with your small revs .In neutral Pull the clutch in as you rev the engine several times and it breaks the clutch loose from sticking. Do this at least 5 times and it will go right into gear when you are ready with no sticking .
 
Clutch sticking?
Is the center shaft that goes thru the main shaft that releases the clutch cover is it correctly adjusted to the proper length? If you remove the clutch cable from the lever on the case if it has too much free play you losing the movement on the rod that releases the clutch. The free movement of this lever should equal about 1/16" of the center shaft movement. The lever should only have around 1/8" of play. Then when you pull the clutch lever the clutch should release.
 
The plates stick together when it sits for long periods. I had that when I brought home the 85 400 WRX. The PO started it to show me it ran. pulled in the clutch, and put it in 1st gear and he got launched forward badly enough he immediately hit the kill switch. was asked if I wanted to try it out. Since it ran, that was all I needed to know. I brought it home, drained the engine oil, and took off the clutch cover. The plates were stuck together so the clutch came apart. Everything was cleaned and the steel plates were scuffed to minimize slipping. After that the corrosion behind the water pump was the start of the adventure.
 
Thanks for the replies guys! Yes when I had the bike completely apart I freshened up the bottom end too. I set the inner shaft correctly and the plates were good in it so I separated them and the plates are aluminum and fibers. The PO drilled the aluminum plates. I found out in the last day or two that in neutral pull the clutch in and rev it quite a few times and then it clears now. I have a pro taper high pull clutch with quick adjuster on it and I just adjust it tight before doing it. I am going to switch to 75wt MTL from the 80 at my oil change. I have to say the motor is pure delight on our technical tough trails
 
if you get tired of dealing with the sticky clutch i highly recommend the steel plates from phillip. bike can sit 2 months and fire up, click in first, and just sit there. also start in gear nicely. does your bike roll backwards in gear with the clutch pulled in? pretty much any oil works in these long as the clutch doesnt slip but the manual states 20w. i know some of the gear oils are thinner than what you would think but 75w sounds awfully thick?
the 430 is a great versatile motor, you have a nice pair between that and your 510. im pretty sure your 510 already has steel clutch plates..
 
I'm sorry my bikes in the past never sat we ran them all.

I just purchased the 75wt tranny oil. We have to consider the wear on the gears too. The oil needs to soften the mesh of the gear teeth. It reduces wear.
 
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