• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

1986 WR250 engine parts?

ChrisC

Husqvarna
B Class
Hi All,

I have a question regarding the crankshaft on my 1986 WR240, you guys called 250’s I think.

Anyhow, the threaded section for retaining the flywheel is snapped off, I cant find it or the nu, has been broken for 10 years min, bike was parked up due to another rooted SEM stator, and has never gone again.

The bike is still in salvageable condition, forks would need a re-chrome, but otherwise it is OK, questions.

Do I try to get a replacement crank end (stub), do I buy a good used crank if available, or is it easier to just grab an engine complete and use it as doner?

The engine ran strong and was in good condition, I know it will need bearings etc, not really an issue, but just feeling out what is about, are these bits available, or should I just hunt an engine.

If I can find a good engine or required parts, I would be keen to turn it into a CR clone for buck work and casual VMX, keep my 1988 WR as a WR and have a twin shock 1983-84 500 in XC build for blasting about.

I am very keen to bring a bike, either whole or in bits out tho OZ soon, maybe I could grab an engine and pack up with bike.

Thoughts or tips would be great.

Thanks.
 
As you intend to strip the motor anyway, I would buy a new stub shaft. They are available at reasonable cost. The one I bought for my 78 390WR was about £60. You will have to press the crank apart anyway to replace bearings/rod etc.
The motor you have is a known quantity, so I would keep it and rebuild it. You may buy into a whole load of grief if you use another one.
Good luck with the build. :)
 
Hi Chris
I personally would fit a new stub but a mate of mine pulled the flywheel off a 240 he had bought to find that some one had snapped the threaded section off , drilled the stub and screwed a piece of all thread in to fix it.
They had loctited the nut on , my mate said that it ran well and you could only pick it because the nut was wrong.
The American 250 and the Aus 240 are very different engines Chris.
Check the bore and strokes.
I have a 87/250 here that we are rebuilding and can't wait to see what the longer stroke and smaller bore does to the rideability.
Cheers Mike
 
Thanks Guys, any tips on where to get a crank end from?

I thought about doing the following, the flywheel is still attached, so I could use the puller I have, make a threaded guide to screw into puller, not to remove flywheel, but drill end of crank on centre, then frill to 5/6 unf and fit a stepped stud or a bolt, this mau work, as the flywheel is held and driven by the taper, not the nut, its just to hold and bed the taper.

Worth a try before I buy a crank or stub, nothing to loose, but maybe a flywheel and stator if it all comes a drift at 10,000rpm. Left hand thread taps may be interesting to find too, more thought required I feel.

EDIT: quick search just found many suppliers of left hand threading gear.

Too many options.
 
Back
Top