Nice find...here is a basic how to I put together for another guy setting out on a journey of discovery.......
methodical process is all you need from here. bag and label everything....carefully. photograph everything, especially wiring + cable positions etc. see if you can get a parts manual online. print it off for the workshop. is invaluable for sorting what bolts went where.
then once the frame is bare, decide on your cover..powdercoat or paint. then get the repairs done and then prep it for a new coat of glistening whatever.
powdercoat needs to be grease free, spray degreaser up all the little frame drain holes and pressure wash carefully other wise it melts when coating and poohs the job. also, cover threads and put dummy bolts in threaded holes etc as the PC fills them up. painting is self explanatory.
make a list of parts then start shopping. dont put anything back on the frame till your happy its right for combat. check husqvarnaparts.com and HVA Factory for bits
I would go buy a box of 6mm and 8mm nylock nuts and get all the bolts that are still serviceable plated. pick up new 10 and 12mm where required.
as your making a rider, find a "how to prep the 250 for enduro riding" article and follow the tips. obvious things but essentials are new tyres, new chain and sprockets (unless they are in good shape) and new brake shoes.
Wheels, are the spokes tight and the rims ok? wire brush the inside of the rim back and run 3 or 4 turns of duct tape in the spoke well. cut out the rim lock and valve holes. I file the valve hole a bit so the valve can creep around a fair bit and not be pulled out of the tube.
Get the shocker serviced and dismantle and clean the forks before giving them a new set of seals and oils. wheel bearings front and back. get good ones not cheap ones. flick the plastic seal off one side and pack with waterproof grease. pop the seal back on. oil the cables (or fit new ones ) grease the lever pivots and clean and grease the backing plate pivots on the brakes.
strip the motor to fit new engine seals at a minimum. match the transfer ports in the cases to the barrel, open the transfers out to the gasket line on the barrel and clean up any daggy bits in the ports. assess the top end for serviceable parts. if your lucky, a light hone and a new set of rings might be the go.
replace the needle rollers in the kick start system as well as the roller behind the idler gear. NOTE...the clutch case comes off with all the bits on it...don't take the gear lever or the kicker off.
replace the water pump seal and bearings while its apart.
look at shrinkfit tube over your electrical wiring from the stator to the backbone. get a new spark plug cap.
everything else should be straight forward refitting.
check your reeds for cracks and splits, I recommend boyesons if you can find some. these can help smooth the bottom to mid / top transition.
check the inlet manifold for cracking and splitting. look carefully, they can split along a seam. consider a new carb if the old one looks worn out. nothing harder than jetting a leaky carb.
get the exhaust de dinged and straightened and make sure the muffler is freshly packed.
chuck the old plastics on and hit the track!
Special areas to check on those single boinger huskys are the pivot hole for the swing arm bolt in the frame, they can elongates and also pooh the engine case inserts as well.
the needle rollers for the linkage can be an issue but lots of info here to help.
