1982 250 XC non-starter

[pierce]

Hello CafeHusky! I have a new PVL ignition, new spark plug, new spark plug wire (get a great spark now), and good compression leakdown test. But now my old faithful is driving me crazy. It was a 1 to 2 kick starter for months after the new ignition setup: turn the gas on, choke lever down and it would light up. And after a normal ride, this new problem started. Kick until my leg nearly falls off and.....nothing. 38mm Mikuni with new float valve (3.3) and carb was thoroughly cleaned when the nonstarting problem began, with new reeds with a clean air filter and.... it won't start! Sometimes it almost starts , then....nothing. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.......

 

[1982 XC 430]

90% of the time I have something like this happen I take the Carb apart find nothing wrong Blow it all out put it back together and I runs just fine. When You Twist the Throttle do You hear the Slide Closing ? Could the Ignition moved and changed the timing? If You Bump start it dose it run right after?

 

[pierce]

Replaced the float valve with a new one from Sudco, rechecked and cleaned the carb. Do hear the slide closing. The timing could have moved ......will recheck the timing, but last time i used the fly wheel puller, it stripped (#!*&!). Hopefully, the timing is on (10 to 8 degrees BTDC, right?) and i won't need to pull the flywheel. Will let ya know, thanks for the ideas!

 

[Joe Chod]

8-10 degrees is too low (closer to TDC) Recomended is 20' or 2.43 mm BTDC. firing later than optimal. more top and less low end this way. your setting is even way low for a 125. got to get it right and snug as there is no keyway with the PVL or MZB/powerdynamo. maybe you can get the extra bit by rotating the ignition holder in the slots but hat is very few degrees.

 

[pierce]

Sorry for the delay. I had threaded on the flywheel puller, started tightening down the center shaft puller and ..... it pulled out the outer cylinder and stripped out the outer 3-4rows of threads on the flywheel!! Argh! How does that happen? I couldn't believe it. Tried to re-thread the puller repeatedly without success. Tried several different auto type pullers (two arm and three arm types) without success and avoided damaging the engine case walls. The local motorcycle place (who really help as much as they can with most problems), did not want to touch it. Once i get it off, will continue the saga. By the way, Mr. Chod, I will set the timing for 2.43 mm BTDC......will let you know if it works once i set the timing.

 

[jo360]

last resort weld a nut onto centre of the flywheel and use a bolt as a puller then cut off the nut and take the flywheel to a shop for re threading, done this twice on different butchered flywheels, do not take the risk of damaging the cases using pullers that might slip.

 

[pierce]

Hello All,
Thanks for the replies and apologize for the delay (work and homeschooling kiddos puts my beloved Husky on the back burner at times), BUT jo360 was right! I spot welded the flywheel puller in place, pulled the flywheel with an air tool. Grinded off the welds and now will get it re-threaded and will set the timing and will let it be known if all is well (please, please, please) or not........

 

[pierce]

A very belated update, BUT..... yahoo! set the timing as Mr. Joe Chod suggested, and it is a 2 kick starter now. I will never figure out how the first flywheel moved off the correct timing, but the folks at PVL were very responsive, returned my emails and sold a new flywheel for $50 and a puller. Now if i could only get those forks to stop leaking live a sieve......

 

[2premo]

A very belated update, BUT..... yahoo! set the timing as Mr. Joe Chod suggested, and it is a 2 kick starter now. I will never figure out how the first flywheel moved off the correct timing, but the folks at PVL were very responsive, returned my emails and sold a new flywheel for $50 and a puller. Now if i could only get those forks to stop leaking live a sieve......

before you installed the flywheel did you lap it to the crankshaft with grinding compound?

 

[justintendo]

get the leakproof seals from phillip...they seem to work well

 

[pierce]

2premo, post: 373702, member: 11113"]before you installed the flywheel did you lap it to the crankshaft with grinding compound?

I did not?! Of course, the simple question answers itself. I will pull it and lap it. Fortunately, I have only taken it for about 30mins of light trail riding so far. Thanks for the tip 2premo!

Oddly, though, the left drain hose from the carb now puts out a milky white fluid while riding (not flowing, about 30cc if i had to guess the amount. The 30cc is over a 20-25min ride) . The only change in performance has been it bogs the first 1/4 turn of the throttle, esp. in 3rd gear (just as i try to go off the largest jump on the track i use - - - not fun, i tell ya).

 

[justintendo]

sounds like you have water in your fuel/carb bowl..

 

[suprize]

get the fork seals from Phillip at huskyparts as suggested, 2 years now with not a weep! amaaaazing (for husky forks)

 

[Huskyboy77]

Hi There,

Can someone help me on a PVL I have a 83 WR430 set at 17 degrees BTDC but nearly breaks your leg with the kick back, it worked before i took it off but had to remove to change some gears but never maked how it come off and now its too scarry to kick and when bumped runs like a sack of S**t

Any help would be much appreciated like what make should i be using on the PVL the small lines or the Dots and should it be the bottom left or top right?

Any help greatly apprectiated.

 

[Huskyboy77]

* what mark should i be using not make!!!

 

[Bigbill]

There's a dimension that the piston needs to be before top dead center from the top of the stroke and top of the cylinder when it's a measured exact dimension this is where you like up the marks on the ignition.

It's in the manual section here. It's like 1/16" to 1/8" but in mm's. Before top dead center as the piston is coming up on the compression stroke.

 

[Huskyboy77]

There's a dimension that the piston needs to be before top dead center from the top of the stroke and top of the cylinder when it's a measured exact dimension this is where you like up the marks on the ignition.

It's in the manual section here. It's like 1/16" to 1/8" but in mm's. Before top dead center as the piston is coming up on the compression stroke.

Thanks, according to the the book its 2.2mm to 2.4mm but wich mark on the stator, as ive set it to this ans still produces major kick back, so we tried the timing disk at 17 and still kick back which make me think that these are stock timming marks and not PVL or that there becuase there is line marks or dot marks which one is correct and should it be the marks on the left of the stator coil or the right. im lead to belive that clockwise marks are to the right of the start coil??

 

[Huskyboy77]

Just read that back and im confuesd?

Just need someone to tell me either by discription or photos what is the degrees or mm before BTDC and what line on the stator to you marry it up with on the rotor? Ive just had a nice chap in America saying it should be 20 degree BTDC but what line on the stator......So Confused lol

 

[Kartwheel68]

PVLs are extremely easy to time since the rotor has no key. Put the engine at TDC, install the flywheel, roll the engine backwards the amount you want (I'd start at 2.2mm), line up the timing mark on the stator with the line on the rotor, button everything down. Thats it. The timing mark is a line molded into the stator, sometimes it is hard to see.

 

[Bigbill]

On the big single cylinders that had magnetos (antique farm equpment) I would time it before the head was installed. I set the dimension on the piston to the top of the cylinder then set the marks on the mag to fire. It's the static setting. It's very hard to set this with the head on unless you have a dial indicator to put in the spark plug hole so your positively sure where the piston is in the cylinder.