• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

1980 390WR Almost Done........

390wr Jon

390wr Jon

Husqvarna
AA Class
It definitely takes me a little longer than most to get a project done (too many pokers in the fire), but I fired up my 1980 390WR for the first time tonight after tinkering with it for the past year and a half. It has all the power that I remember it having.

I bought it new in 1980, did some NETRA enduros and put it away in the mid-1980s until a few years ago.

Hoping to do some upcoming NETRA vintage hare scrabbles if I can get the starting down more easily (I have had to bump start it to get started) and I need to verify the shifting is working properly (1st gear seems higher than I remember and I can't seem to get it past 3rd gear).

The Cafe Husky forum has been invaluable to me during the restoration and I will likely post a few more questions if I can't fix the starting and shifting issues.

Here is a photo from 1980 (....wish I knew what I did with that Husky jersey, not that it would fit....) and completed post restoration photos from this past weekend.


img412 (2).jpgMay 2013 iPhone Photos 212.JPGMay 2013 iPhone Photos 211.JPGMay 2013 iPhone Photos 210.JPG
 
cool result, fantastic that you have the same bike...so many of us are still kicking ourselves for flogging them 30 y ago:mad:
 
You may find your shifting issue to be a missing pin in your shift drum and depending on whether your 1st gear is 1st or really 2nd, you may find the shift clocking off. Start by removing the clutch cover and checking the end of the shift drum, If the washer on the end is missing, a pin may be as well
 
Jimspac:

I assume you mean washer #68 in the attached Husky parts manual diagram. If so, how is the best way to look for it with the clutch cover off without taking the engine out and splitting the cases (see below photo)? Do I need to take the clutch basket off as well? Just trying to save some work if you can provide greater detail.

Thanks,

Left Case without Clutch Cover 2.jpgLeft Case without Clutch Cover 1.jpg
 

Attachments

Clutch basket off, no need to split the cases unless there's a pin or washer floating around in the transmission.
 
I can't seem to get it past 3rd gear).
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This symptom is is a classic case of the shifting drum timing being off, what jimspac referred to as the shifting clock. However if the center cases have never been open it would be impossible to suddenly fall out of timing in my opinion, so it must be something else. I can't imagine how the thrust washer on the end of the shifting drum would have fallen off. If a part has broken or somehow fallen off a gear component there would have been shrapnel on the drain plug magnet.

Am I correct in assuming the center cases have never been open?
And was the gear oil free of metal debris?
 
Here is the update: I did split the cases to replace the seals. The washer at the end of the shift drum gear (Husky manual calls it a linkroller) is installed. I made sure the "step feeder" showed 2 cogs visible to left and 1 cog to right of link roller per Husky manual during reassembly.

When I shift, I can only seems to find three gears and more than one "neutral". As such, I assume when I reassembled the cases the timing of the shift drum/ link roller is off. I assume I will have to re-split the cases and rotate the shift drum to a correct position? If so, can someone tell me how to correctly orient the shift drum rotation prior to reassembly? The Husky manual I have is for MK and ML models, not my 1980 MN model. The MK/ML manual looks similar but I want to make sure I get it right.

As always, and help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.
 
I made sure the "step feeder" showed 2 cogs visible to left and 1 cog to right of link roller per Husky manual during reassembly.
Click to expand...
Correct however be sure the shifting drum is in 4th gear at the same time. Also, your 80 trans setup is the same as the ML trans.

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This is the 4th gear shifting drum setup for your trans.
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Crashaholic - Yes. The step feeder was assembled as shown on your page GA-9 and the shift drum arm was in 4th gear in the middle photo on your GA-10 page manual is how I reassembled it. Now I am now more perplexed/ frustrated than before.
 
The only thing that comes to mind is a guide roller (#37) fell off during assembly or the gear strikers (#34, 35, 36) are not in their proper places. Either one of these could create the symptoms you speak of. At this point I don't know what else it could be.

Now I am now more perplexed/ frustrated than before
Click to expand...
If it were my engine I'd split the cases again and check that all the parts are in their proper places. I've have to pull motors from the frame and re-opened the center cases more than once because something wasn't right. Its just part of the game.

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Crashaholic, you are soooo right. Sometimes it take 3,4 or more times. 390wr jon, if you take it apart again use some vaseline to hold those link rollers on the gear strikers, and don't be afraid to float the strikers without the pins to get everything in especially the 3/4 striker. It can be done! Crash helped me get a 6 speed in my 450, a lesson I will never forget.
 
Crash and others, Thanks for the guidance. I know what I'm doing this weekend (splitting cases....). I'll provide an update once I'm done. Thanks again.
 
Crash and Others:

I split the cases and everything looked as it should. All three (3) guide rollers were on the gear strikers. I had to repaint the cases so I took everything out and reassembled it again. So here's what happens when I try to simulate going through the gears by turning the shift drum (link-roller):

When I rotate the shift drum all the way counterclockwise the counter-shaft sprocket shaft is in gear; it turns (I assume 1st gear). I then rotate shift drum clockwise and neutral is fine(counter-shaft sprocket shaft does not turn). However, I only am able to find one gear during the middle of rotating the shift drum clock-wise and one gear when shift drum is all the way counter-clock wise. The counter-shaft sprocket shaft is not engaged (wont turn; like it is in neutral) other than when the drum is all way clockwise or counter-clockwise and a location somewhere in the middle of drum rotation.

I assume having the engine on its side in a engine stand would not effect shifting simulation but I think I have faithfully reassembled it correctly. I don't know if the following pictures are sufficient for review. Needless to say I am at wits end trying figure out what is wrong or if in fact the re-assembly is correct. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Jon

IMG_1470.JPGIMG_1468.JPGIMG_1465.JPGIMG_1463.JPG
 
Gear strikers look correct although my experience is with pre 77 six speeds so I could be wrong. Someone familiar with the 80 6 spd will check out the thread soon and confirm their placement.

I don't see the ratchet arm assembly in the pics (parts 63, 64, 65). Was it in place when you clicked through the gears? Gear placement won't be exact without it.

The only other thing that comes to mind is a couple of gears are out of place. At any time have all the gears and washers been removed from the shafts and if so are we sure they're currently in the correct order?
 
Also, keep in mind that when you're bench shifting the trans won't shift smoothly. You'll need to coax it by wiggling either the clutch or counter shaft while working the shift mechanism, especially if the center cases are not together.
 
Crashaholic - I kept the gears and washers/ spacers intact. I didn't install the ratchet arm during bench shifting simulation, but the other gear engagement is definitely not there.

Yes, I had to wiggle the countershaft during the bench shifting simulation but I am only finding three gears. The three gear and multiple neutrals is the same thing that was happening when I began riding it after restoration.

I must have done something wrong during reassembly but everything looks right according to the parts manual and my original pre-disassembly photos that I took.
 
Jon, can you see the dimples for the old style detent on the bottom of the shift drum? They should be towards the crank. Also the allen bolt on the top for the ratchet arm cam looks tall. This is the 6 speed in my 450, maybe you can see something different from yours. Is your spring and detent under the shift wheel? Maybe your shift wheel is upside down.
20170208_153304_resized-jpg.76409
 
Go to Beaver Creek Cycles, Customer Corner, they have the parts list for this bike. It should help you to figure it out. I had some worn dogs and windows that felt like neutral, I smoked my shift fork.
 
Crashaholic, I put the ratchet arm assembly on the shift drum and bingo....I can find all the gears. It's hard to believe the ratchet arm is so precise as compared to trying to find the gears by rotating the shift drum (even very carefully) without the ratchet arm. I'll give an update once reassembled and running. Many thanks to everyone for your help.
 
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