• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

1978 390 Auto build

Also had time to fit the headlamp and front number board, along with speedo, cable and brackets. I had to copy the alloy headlamp brackets from my other 390. They came out well. I have changed the headlamp glass for a current Auteroche unit. This had a reflector with a more modern bulb holder.
Not sure about the rubber cotton reels mounting the headlight to the brackets though. With the engine running it will shake around too much and wind up those in front of me ! I think a couple of plastic spacers will be better.

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Thanks I will have to try and order one from then. The bike looks really good. its going to be a sweet bike when you are finished
 
Finally got to mount the front light properly. Made two nylon spacers to replace the rubber cotton reels. I also made four alloy plates to stop the rubber fork mounting brackets from distorting. All painted to match the alloy headlamp bracket.

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Solved my problem of lack of bulb holder. I bought a new Auteroche tractor headlamp unit. The lens with reflector fit perfectly. It also gives me the option of a Halogen bulb or a normal one. I will probably go for a normal yellow one to keep the "look".

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Seems petty, but I was really pleased to find a new rear brake adjuster nut with "wings". Nothing worse than trying to wind on a couple of turns with wet gloves, and in a hurry. This part was from a Yam or Kawasaki.

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The inside of the engine was full of what looks like a rag. The reeds are totally shot, and will be replaced with a set of Boysen Dual Stage.

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I knew the left side crank stub (right hand side of this picture) was worn when the engine case just lifted off. That will need to be replaced. The other side has a little too much corrosion for my liking, and will be replaced too. I really really hope I can get away with the rod !

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I have spent many hours cleaning all the mating surfaces. It is now all ready to have every bearing replaced. The bore has been checked and will require an overbore. Just waiting for the bearings and seals to turn up from Jef Bens in Belgium.

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From the discolouring of the crank area I would guess this motor got very hot at some point. Or are they all like this ??

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grouty said:
Solved my problem of lack of bulb holder. I bought a new Auteroche tractor headlamp unit. The lens with reflector fit perfectly. It also gives me the option of a Halogen bulb or a normal one. I will probably go for a normal yellow one to keep the "look".

SANY0981_zps418f2b8c.jpg
Click to expand...
Did you just use the Auteroche lens or the shell as well? I got something similar from Tractor Supply (12V 35Watt) but it seems as though you can not replace the lens or bulb. All sealed at assembly :( Of course I do not even have a shell to work with so I really need a light with replacable bulbs so I can convert the shell from bottom to the traditional side mounts
 
The light comes with a slightly deeper shell than the original HVA one. It also has a mounting stud sticking out one side only to mount to one side of a tractor bonnet (hood !). So this bit gets junked.
The reflector and glass lens are sealed together, but the bulb is the normal fit as per your car. So replacing is easy. It also comes with a 3 pin plug for the bulb with a short length of wiring. It is set up for dip and main beam.
The outer black ring does not have the brush guard either, and is slightly deeper. Usable if you don't have one and don't want the guard.

If I get a chance after cutting the grass, and before going to the pub, I will take some pictures of what is supplied.
 
The Tractor Supply light I got is bottom mount as well. It is also just 35 watt single element so it is not as friendly as I had hopes for conversion. But for only $13 it is cheap enough to play with until something better pops up. Vintage enduro lighting for anything is expensive now
 
While you have got the motor split, it is a good idea to fit a crankcase drain plug, they are difficult to kick over and trying to clear a flooded one is not easy.
 
hi grouty, nice job on the headlamp. Im curious about the fork tube
clamps - did you fabricate them or where did you find them - they look good?
I have had a crank stub hard chromed to "grow" back metal where there was pitting on the seal surface. its precision ground after chroming. may be easier to find another crank stub though!
 
Steve,
I did think about a drain plug, but too late now as they are all painted. The last one I saw was on Rod Spry's bike a few years ago. Why they were never made like that from the factory I will never understand.
The plus side is, that I plan to run another Lectron carb on this one. So it should not be a problem (famous last words !)
 
Sean, the rubber fork tube clamps are original Husky parts. The triangular alloy plates are copied from originals on my 6 speed WR. I spotted the little alloy washer type things that stop the rubber deforming on a picture of one of Rob Shoemarks Auto pics in VMX Magazine.

I did think about having the crank stubs re-chromed and ground, but for €40 (about £35) it was cheaper to buy good ones from Jef Bens in Belgium.

I didn't get the time to photograph the headlamp stuff as a roast dinner came between grass cutting and the pub !
 
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