1977 Husqvarna 250cr Project

[John Shufelt]

Hey all,

I have a 1977 250CR that I'm putting back together and I have some questions that hopefully can get answered. The bike is mostly complete except for plastics and odds and ends. I plan on racing post vintage VMX as well as some cross country on this bike.

First off, It has a very large tank, I'm assuming its from a WR or OR model. I'm not very familiar with the specific differences between the models but from some of the literature and photos I've found online I seem to be correct but I just want to get some verification. If its not the correct tank for the model I'd like to find the correct gas tank if at all possible.

Second, I have never ridden one of these before and I have no idea how well the forks work. Are they okay to race if just set up with the right oil weight and springs? Or would throwing some emulators in there be a good idea? The rear shocks look to be factory and are totally blown. Are they rebuildable? Or just replace them? What do you guys and gals run on your bikes?

And lastly, I love vintage motorcycle racing and I think they belong out in the mud and the dirt doing what they were built to do. That being said, I guess if any of you have any tips or things to look out for with these bikes I'd love to hear what you have to say.

 

[Crashaholic]

Hi John, glad to hear you're going to be putting your 250 in the dirt. Restoring them just to look at seems a waste but to each their own. I desert raced a 77 390 in the 70's and i think that chassis handles great. The 77's came with girling shocks that are not rebuildable and for competitive racing purposes are not that good, IMO. New shocks that are race ready can set you back 600-800 bucks. I'm currently riding a 75 MK frame and like my vintage Works Performance shocks. Used, I paid $150 plus another 200 for a rebuild kit, mounting bushings, and springs. Rebuilt them myself so labor was free. The guy at Worx (new name) Performance told me what was needed in valving for desert riding, he can do the same for any other terrain. Or you can send the shocks out for rebuilding and tuning for $200 or $300 depending on what you need.

I have the 77 non-leading axle forks on my 75. I spent the money and set them up with emulators and springs and I'm very pleased with the result. They're pretty good stock as well. Sounds like your tank is not stock. The 77 CR's came with a 2 gal tank.

If you're putting the motor back together then take the time to be sure the bottom/top end is leak free. If the left side crank stub has any corrosion, pitting, or scratches then replace it or sleeve it. The seal that rides on that stub is touching as it is when the stub is like new. Leaks will draw gearbox oil into the lower end and screw with your jetting, make your bike blow smoke and spooge, and cause carbon buildup in the top end. Can't stress enough the need to make sure the base gasket, intake gasket, and the right hand seal plate behind the ignition are leak free. Do a leak down test while the motor is on the bench.

 

[John Shufelt]

Very cool, I always tell people I ride with how crazy it would have been to be riding/racing back in the 1970's and 1980's. The advancements and innovations on dirtbikes happened so fast. It would have been something to experience.

Yeah, after looking at the shocks again they are indeed the original Girling shocks. I could get a set of new custom shocks but I like the idea of used but rebuildable Works Performance ones. I just tried to visit the "Worxs" shocks website and it seems to be down. I wonder if the rebuild kits are still available or at some point will be if Worxs is no longer a thing. Sounds like I should go for the emulators/springs combo. Who did you go with? Racetech? I've never played with husqvarna forks before, only Japanese forks so hopefully I could get them installed correctly.

The tank is DEFINITELY bigger than 2 gallons. Any ideas on where to find the correct tank? I've looked all over the internet and I'm not having much luck. I have a white Clark univeral VMX tank I might slap on in the meantime beings as it is more the correct size.

I have yet to take the bottom end apart but considering your words of caution I will. I'll track down some seals and inspect the areas you mentioned and see what I find. The top end was on its original bore so I had it punched out to the next size up and have a new piston, seal, ect. Wossner Recommended drilling two lubrication holes in the piston for the exhaust bridge as well as relieving the exhaust bridge. Do you have any experience with these modifications?

 

[Crashaholic]

I just tried the Worx website and its up, probably an omen. My dealings with Tim at Worx a couple years back was less than easy going, he seemed stressed and bothered by my questions. Another option for Worx parts is Thor Lawson at http://www.evolutionsuspensionproducts.com/Works.html. Hes actually an authorized dealer for Worx. I've dealt with him several times for Works and Fox parts and hes always been a big help. Keep in mind that this is a side gig for Thor so some days a reply may be slow.

As far as a tank goes, I've always perused Ebay looking for the good OEM deal, no India crap for me, and with patience found what I wanted however you may give this guy a shout; https://www.vintagehusqvarnaparts.be/parts/ . Hes in Belgium but ships to the US. I've ordered from him a few times and have always been pleased with the service. He has access to OEM tanks and offers tank restoration and prices are reasonable aside from shipping cost, shipping insurance, and the required delivery signature.

I've never dealt with this guy for a tank but if you have the time check 'em out.
http://www.vintagehuskyrestorations.com/untitled1.html

I don't have any bridge relieve experience but I did stay at a Holiday Express once, . Seriously, I've read about it and think its a wise modification. With a porting grinder it looks pretty easy, same with the Wossner lube holes.

 

[Crashaholic]

I forgot to mention, I used the Race Tech emulators and springs. Theres also spindle mods that are required but for the 77 forks its nothing a drill can't handle.

 

[Crashaholic]

Heres the article on bridge relieving and drilling the lube holes.

https://www.thumpertalk.com/article...l-lubrication-holes-for-your-two-stroke-r900/

 

[John Shufelt]

Thanks for all the information. I see now that the Worx site is up. My browser for some reason was not letting the website load. Oh well. I'll keep my eye out for the correct length Works shocks on Ebay and if I can score a good set I'll pick em up. If not, I don't mind having some made for me. Noleen or Racetech I hear make some pretty top quality units though they are pretty pricy. I'll look for the correct tank too. I plan on racing some GP's as well as cross country races so maybe the larger tank wouldn't be that bad of an idea to keep anyway?

Holiday Express! XD

I've already got the holes drilled in the piston I'm just a little squeemish about taking material out of the cylinder. You're right though, It dosen't look too difficult. I'll try my hand at it this weekend and see how it goes. I looked into the modifications for the gold valves and you were right again, it seems pretty easy. Once the bike is actually together and running I'll pull the trigger on those emulators.

I really appreciate all help. I'll post updates and pics as progress is made.

 

[DeathFromAbove]

I've done it to a 82 Honda cr250r, was pretty easy. I polished the bridge for the last .001. Didn't want the ring to snag or wear excessively. I also used a straight edge to monitor my progress!!

 

[John Shufelt]

I've done it to a 82 Honda cr250r, was pretty easy. I polished the bridge for the last .001. Didn't want the ring to snag or wear excessively. I also used a straight edge to monitor my progress!!

Right on. I was thinking about using a straight edge too then slip a feeler gauge under it to make sure I dont take too much metal away.

 

[John Shufelt]

So digging into this bike some more I ran into some things that have raised some questions. First off, What's the deal with the Leleu front brake? Was it a factory brake or did someone add it? I also have no idea how to remove the one of the wheel bearings. Its like there's a collar that requires a special tool to access the bearing. Not sure how it comes apart. Second When looking at the rear wheel it seems like I'm missing a spacer on the chain side of the motorcycle, like a half inch wide. Looked online with the correct part number and everything I found was too wide to fit the gap. The triple clamp seems to be a different style than the one in my workshop manual. Possibly from an earlier model or a WR? I've attached pics of all the mentioned parts.

 

[DeathFromAbove]

Axle spacers look ok just center the axle and pull it together
The lelu is correct that stuff is for a speedo drive Should just push out from the other side
Forks look correct get a pic of the ribs on the lowers around the brake alignment location

 

[motomwo]

You must have a WR. 77 250CR's had the new (then) aluminum triple clamps and the conical front brake hub. The 77 WR's and auto used different length rear wheel spacers compared to the CR's. Husky did this on the WR's so the rear wheel would not track in the same exact line as the front wheel to get the optimum traction.

Marty

 

[DeathFromAbove]

That tracking screwwed with my head too!!

 

[John Shufelt]

Axle spacers look ok just center the axle and pull it together
The lelu is correct that stuff is for a speedo drive Should just push out from the other side
Forks look correct get a pic of the ribs on the lowers around the brake alignment location

Oh, so that little part is to attach a speedometer? interesting. I'll get you a pic of the fork lowers a little later. the bike is at my brother's house.

 

[John Shufelt]

That tracking screwwed with my head too!!

That's really odd. Any other manufacturer do that?

 

[John Shufelt]

You must have a WR. 77 250CR's had the new (then) aluminum triple clamps and the conical front brake hub. The 77 WR's and auto used different length rear wheel spacers compared to the CR's. Husky did this on the WR's so the rear wheel would not track in the same exact line as the front wheel to get the optimum traction.

Marty

Its all starting to come together now. So the history of the bike and its components is thus:

The hubs, forks, wheels, tank, triple clamp, airbox, and seat all came from a 1976 or 77 360 Auto. It had no engine so I found this 1977 CR250 (frame number ML19865, engine code 2059 0716) on marketplace that had a complete engine, frame, and triple clamp. So we swapped all the missing components from the 360 Auto to the 250CR not knowing that some of the parts were different between the bikes (as I have little experience with Husqvarna's). The question is now do I build it as a CR or a WR? I have the (what I believe) is correct CR triple clamp on the other frame that I could swap back to the frame I'm working on and then sort out the correct rear wheel spacers, find a correct front hub/wheel and pretty much have a CR250 with a WR gas tank.

Sorry for the confusion, like I said, I don't have much knowledge of these bikes but I want to learn more about them and you all are helping a lot.

 

[John Shufelt]

Axle spacers look ok just center the axle and pull it together
The lelu is correct that stuff is for a speedo drive Should just push out from the other side
Forks look correct get a pic of the ribs on the lowers around the brake alignment location

Here's some pics of the fork lowers. That's the area you were talking about yeah? I'm assuming these are WR forks? I looked around on the internet today and saw that these look nothing like the ones fitted on the 76-77 CR's.

 

[DeathFromAbove]

nice they are the correct forks for the wr/auto
1" more travel that the previous years. If ya don't use them let me know!!

 

[John Shufelt]

nice they are the correct forks for the wr/auto
1" more travel that the previous years. If ya don't use them let me know!!

Great reference material. Thank you. So as you probably read from my last post the bike is basically a 1977 WR frame with a 1977 CR engine in it. Is there really anything wrong with that matchup? From the reading I've done the only difference between the CR and WR engines was the final drive ratios, ignition, and exhaust. Is that true? Then the chassis had different rear wheel spacers, the front brake was different, forks, and triple clamp? If The CR engine will work then I'll probably just keep the bike a WR, but just with a CR engine?

Coming back to the rear axle you said everything looks good? What did you mean by "center the axle'? I'm not trying to sound doubtful but that (in my brain) is a large gap between the swingarm and the hub collar and it just seems strange that you would tighten that sucker down enough to eliminate that space. I've looked online for images of the axle assembly to cross reference but have come up with nothing.

If I decide to swap the forks with anything else I'll definitely let you know.

 

[Bill502]

Great reference material. Thank you. So as you probably read from my last post the bike is basically a 1977 WR frame with a 1977 CR engine in it. Is there really anything wrong with that matchup? From the reading I've done the only difference between the CR and WR engines was the final drive ratios, ignition, and exhaust. Is that true? Then the chassis had different rear wheel spacers, the front brake was different, forks, and triple clamp? If The CR engine will work then I'll probably just keep the bike a WR, but just with a CR engine?

Coming back to the rear axle you said everything looks good? What did you mean by "center the axle'? I'm not trying to sound doubtful but that (in my brain) is a large gap between the swingarm and the hub collar and it just seems strange that you would tighten that sucker down enough to eliminate that space. I've looked online for images of the axle assembly to cross reference but have come up with nothing.

If I decide to swap the forks with anything else I'll definitely let you know.

The CR engine should work for woods and enduro riding just not good for long road sections,It will be pretty snappy in the tight stuff. I rode my 78CR250 for enduros back in the 70s-80s now I just use it at an ocasional Vintage MX now and then.
Bill