• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

1976 360 WR ----buy or not to buy

H

huskyborn

Husqvarna
AA Class
I'm considering buying a 1976 360WR. Presently not running. Bike is complete. Has been sitting 15 years. What are the important $$$$ things I should check????
 
Does it turn over? Does it have compression? I usually make a project out of the bikes I get. I completely disassemble the motorcycle. Go thru the whole motor-check all bearings and replace all seals. If the bore is good put a ring in it. I have found out over the years that it is far cheaper to inspect everything once than to blow it up and have expensive repairs.
The short answer is that if it ran when it was put away it wont take much to get it 100%
 
Only dabbled in a few of the ~70 models bikes but the dog-ears on the lower gears were a well-know issue with the bikes jumping out of gear. Not sure if this was an issue with the 360s or not ....
 
Non running, it could end up being a parts bike or a restoration project. Not knowing if the crankcase is ok. I'd start at $100. But as said above check the compression if it turns over, check the spark. If that's ok I'd go $150. Check the rear shocks. If they are rusted or pitted shafts or loose when pushing down, there shot stick to $150. Chances are the shocks need rebuilding or replacement. Check the rims for smiles, cracks and loose spokes. Check the steering neck bearings. Check the brake plates for cracks and worn areas on the outside. The water lock should be intact all the way around it. Hold the top of the tire and move it right to left to check for loose wheel bearings. How's the sprockets are the teeth hooked or straight. Check the gas tank inside for rust. Most of the parts will need rebuilding or replacing but use it to drive the price down. Show cash, a $100 Bill and $50 Bill if you go that high never show your whole bank roll. I stick $20, $10 and $5 in different pockets. Never show the total amount you have. And keep your poker, stone cold face while haggling.
Good luck let us know. Bill
 
Get it as low as you can get it. You will have more in restoring it than it will be worth. Hopefully, you will get the parts back but prob not your labor. Goal is to get it in best possible condition that needs least amount.
Guys right now are taking a bath in muscle cars and any collectors stuff, cause money not there.
I just witnessed guys that had Super Bees they have $250K in and highest bids were $75 to $100k. They shook their heads and loaded them back in their trailers.
 
That's why I said to look it all over good. But try to put a price on a full restoration.
I end up ripping them down to the last nut and bolt. The motor goes to the bench for year down first. That tells us if it's worth doing a restoration. Once the cases are ok and free from corrosion it's a go.
I restore the engine first.
Now every painted part gets cleaned and painted.
The brakes get inspected next, the camshafts get removed cleaned and greased.(white lube) look at the shoes either install them if there good or replace them.
My point is I go through every sub assembly and restore it. Once all the subunits and parts are ready on a shelf the frame goes on the assembly bench.
The fork bearings get greased and the triple clamp gets installed first. Then the fork tubes, the front brake cable support, front wheel and handle bars etc. The air box is next. The engine and swing arm, suspension is next. Rear tire and brakes.

Sorry I just got executed about building a husky.
 
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