• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

1974 400WR Ignition

jack topper

jack topper

Husqvarna
AA Class
Hi folks! I'm new to this forum - all forums, really - so I hope you canl bear with me.

I've been carrying this 400 around for 38 years and have decided to put it back to running condition now that I'm about to retire. It has a Femsa magneto and Bosch coil; no kill button. I don't remember how it was wired, but the black lead is original, short, and has a terminal lug on it. It looked like a ground to me, so that's where I put it. The white lead in the photo is coming from the magneto. I was able to find some stranded copper cored bumblebee wire, and temporarily put a resistor-type NGK plug cap on it until I can get a non-resistor version. I do get a spark when I kick it over, but it seems weak and somewhat red in color. Have I got it wrong somehow? Any wisdom or advice would be very welcome!

Now if I can just figure out how to upload the photo!
 
38 years!!! well done...sorry cant help with the sparks... keep the story on the bike going tho:popcorn:
 
Yes, black to ground as you have it. Kill switch will tie into the white wire you have coming from the magneto, just grounds the wire when button is pushed. Point gap should be .016 inches (spec is .014 to .018). New points and condenser, then if you still have weak spark, try a universal coil, running one on mine, works perfectly. As noted by Stormer, I also have the condenser mounted under the fuel tank. I'll get you a link to my service manual which you will be able to download, but won't be able to until this evening.
Steve
 
SteveJ & Stormer254: Thanks for the input - that helps. Looking forward to the link to the service manual; I don't have one and none of the links in the vintage parts & tech ref section seem to work for me - at least not the ones that pertain to the 74 WR400...
JT
 
Yes, the 68-74 workshop manual is included in the link stormer254 posted. it has a section specific to the Femsa mag. If you also click the 67-79 parts manual folder, you'll find a parts manual for your 1974 WR. If you have any problem with the links, let me know.
 
Thanks much guys. I'll download and print. Looks like this might be a slow overhaul process. Fortunately, I had the engine rebuilt right after it got drowned - just never seemed to find the time to put it all back together. I wonder how many parts fell out of the basket during a dozen moves since 1978...:rolleyes:
 
Hi folks... Moving down the line on the rebuild. I've got decent spark now, but am concerned about the condition of the seals. Everything in the crankcase was put in new, and it's never been run or had any fluids put in it, but it's been sitting in a basket since '78. Probably need to do at least a pressure test, eh? Maybe split cases? Any/all advice welcome.

Does anyone know where I can source four of the rubber T-bushings used in the front fender mount? I got a set of mounting hardware from Rick Horvat at Husky Outlet, but his kit only included socket head cap screws, nylock nuts, flat washers and rubber flat washers - no T-bushings. I think the fender will flop around without 'em. The bushing's barrel appears to be 11 mm OD x 6 mm ID x 18 mm L; the flange is about 14 mm OD x 6 mm ID x 3.2 mm in "thickness". I found a place on the Web to have them made, but they want a 10,000 piece minimum order!

Thanks in advance...
JT
 
crank seals are a risk reward issue...if you risk them and they fail, no reward:mad: if they fail at full throttle, you could on the worst case scenario, seize your piston and big end. You pay out the reward to the engine man. what is it to remove the motor..1 hr of your time? another half to rip the top end down and the clutch off..500 buck for a strip and seal replace at your favourite mr Mc Hanics?. well worth it I rekon. Total piece of mind knowing you don't have 38 year old bits of nylon holding things together.
 
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