• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

1972 450CR

You can fill the pitting in engine cases with JB Weld and do not sand down the skin on final coating as that saves the JB Weld from being permeated with engine oil.
 
That's something I wasn't aware of on the JB Weld. So you have to leave the skim coat for it to be oil resistant?

I wrenched on it some today. I broke down the wheels and the front looked good but the back well it was toast. I can source the bearings and seals but the back brake plate and brass bushing may be difficult. I have to look at the rear hub closer and decide if I can save it.

Here are some pictures of the rear:
20150401_114334.jpg20150401_123549.jpg
 
I was going to clean up the Akront rims but after cleaning them and looking closer I think I'll replace them.

I understand the rims are drilled differently for the conical hub, is this true and if so what rims should I look for?

Thanks, Mike
 
I was told that about JB Weld by Phillip at husqvarna-parts.com. I have noticed that when you sand off the skin, the JB weld looks porous. So I either do not sand a finish application on the inside of the case or if I need to, I do a film coat of epoxy to ensure the sealing properties.

I have actually repaired backing plates not quite bad as your's but the groove wore thru 270° of the worst and it is coming out nicely with just JB Weld to create the floor of the groove and to seal the outside.


Buchanan Spoke is the best for sourcing rims and spokes. They have Husqvarna patterns going back to perhaps the early 70's. Or you can send your hub and get it back with the rims and spokes of your choice laced to it
 
Thanks Jim.

I am looking at sending the hubs out for a rim and lacing. I need to figure out this first: The rear hub has a steel liner in it for the brake shoes. I bead blasted the hub and noticed the steel ring is not set in the hub.
I am not experienced enough with the Huskies to know if this is normal or if the steel liner has slipped in the machined area of the hub.
Here is a close up of what I am talking about:
20150402_212158.jpg
 
i would think the only real way to properly fix that is to plug weld and re-drill.

i clamp a small piece of brass stock behind it and plug weld. grind smooth again..depending on access and application you can do same to backside. aluminum works as well, but i prefer brass.
i do this on the swinger pivots as well. on those i make a cardboard template to replace the hole in the right place. i would think in the tank application you would be able to use the tank to find your hole again.
 
The steel brake ring is typically seated on the ledge but something else doesn't look right. The thickness of the ring should cause it to protrude inward further than the wall of the hub. That ledge shouldn't be visible even with the ring slide upward slightly. Maybe its the camera angle.

Heres one of my early 70's rear hub. Hope this helps out.

DSCN0765.JPG
 
I agree, That steel brake ring should be seated evenly all the way around.

I am faced with a few choices, one is to leave it as is and hope for the best, another is to find a shop that can remove the old ring and set in a new one that would probably have to be made and the last would be to find another hub.

The last choice would be the least expensive one I would think.

Thanks for the help.
 
i may be fulla shit:eek: but didnt i read on here something about relining a hub what holds that in there anyway:excuseme:
 
From what I can see that steel ring is an interference fit.

I imagine for a fee a machinist could heat the hub and pull that sleeve out or machine it out on a brake lathe then set in another steel ring.

Doing some research I have seen a number of rear hubs with the same anomaly as the one I have. I'll search and see if I can find a machinist and what the cost would be.

All things are possible with determination and money.
 
I have a bike done just like you said. It was done when I bought it. Glad I didn't have to pay for that & I haven't had to mess with it at all.
 
Years ago the lining on the rear drum of my 86 Honda CR was worn out so the local machine shop relined it and inserted 3 small steel dowels around the circumference of the new lining to hold it in place. Was pretty inexpensive.
 
That's a good idea.

I saw here somewhere on the site that there was a guy doing the same thing.

Still looking for him, of course the post is probably years old.
 
Thanks to Crashaholic I have a good hub and back plate for the rear wheel. Once they get here I'll paint them, stuff new bearings in the hub and send them to Woody's for lacing.

Daryn also turned me on to a5 speed splined auxiliary shaft. So...no puller for changing the countershaft sprockets! :applause:


Still hunting a piston and ring . I have found a sleeve and piston but $600 really dings my income.

So.... I have a question you experienced husky riders may be able to answer; will a 420/430 piston work or will the wrist pin diameter be to small for the rod as well as other issues such as skirt length and port cut outs????
 
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