• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

  • 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Austria - About 2014 & Newer
     TE = 2st Enduro & TC = 2st Cross

TE/TC 17 TE 150

wallybean said:
It looks like you polished your exhaust flange and power valve flapper. Did you match it up with the pipe flange too? What was your Z dimension set at from the factory? Mine was a tad low at almost 37mm. I set mine to 36.25mm. Speck is 36.5mm. .010" isn't going to make any real difference, I just want it so that as it wears it has a ways to go before it gets low again. I polished everything up in the exhaust and matched the ports and pipe.

It took verrrrry little work to get the transfers matched up on mine. Ktm has really upped their game in that regard.
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Walt, I did polish the power valve, shafts and exhaust flange. I did that because it didn't have any coating on it. I polished the shafts, so it slips better in the sleeves/oil. Yeah, I matched with pipe flange too.

I went to gasket match the transfers and it matches real good. I agree they did nice job compared to other manufacturers.

I did not knife edge the transfers, due to them being rounded, instead of pointy.
I always thought that if the are in pyramid shape, to knife them, but if rounded, to leave them alone?
What's your thoughts?

My powervalve was set at 36.5mm. I also, might mark the Allen/set screw to maybe drop it to 37 and maybe 37.5?
I thought maybe it would boost low end some, since it came over from motocross line? What's your thoughts on this as well? I figured I could adjust it back.

What your thoughts on cases and cover material? Magnesium? You can polish it and tarnishes the next day. So that reminds me of magnesium?

Tearing everything apart, I'm realizing that the craftsmanship, extra stuff they are doing during assembly is top notch.
 
hakkalugi said:
You can tell if its mag by putting a drop of vinegar on it & see if it bubbles. If it doesnt bubble its not magnesium!
Click to expand...

Then you run out to shop tonight and put a drop of vinegar on your cases!

Too cold right now!

Then you tell us if you got Mr Bubbles?

While Walt and I are in front of wood burners, where it's warm.

Ha!
 
Very cold here so even though the bike is in the shop, I don't want to leave the den.

I didn't mess with the transfers either. They look good. All the parts look top notch. The reed valve cage may be the only part that isn't really a great item. Mine didn't have the issues the big bores have but still looks like a piece the bean counters got involved in. The V-Force would be a step up in quality.

I think the 36.5mm is a good spot to maintain. I think you will start to actually lose some bottom if you go a lot more. Probably anything between 37 and 36 will work well. Below 37 you will start to lose late bottom to mid and above 36 you start to lose the very bottom. It is a really nice upgrade in design for them to go with this power valve configuration. I like that the side power valves are on a different timing than the main flapper. I think this really promotes the more linear power band that this motor has in spades.

Best way to find your sweet spot with the power valve Z dimension is to unhook the power valves and lock them closed. Test as you adjust. Then take it back apart and measure your best setting. I did this a little but will do it more when it gets warmer.
 
Too cold here too! Im sittin in front of the wood stove as we speak lol. Ill give it a whirl tomorrow if you dont get to it before me tho.
 
Ok, then it levit.

Levit= leave it the hell alone!

I just stick with 36.5

Let me know what you come up with for reeds then. Only thing I did, was look to see if they were flush and store them.


Hak!

Figured you be out in a deer stand somewhere?
 
How much snow you got up there?

Up there you have to use a conversion table to figure mm to feet.

Over Christmas I'm going to do my covers in KG Gun Kote then bake them.

That stuff is pretty durable and scratch resistant. Can't anodize it or else I would.
 
Walt this is head and coolant jacket outside of head insert.

Doubt if there are enough to support doing them but I like the blue one.

Wonder if there is an option for the company doing inserts, to outsource maybe the
Outer part?

They look one fitty sweet!
 

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Heads%20gold%20and%20orange-1.jpgHeads%20gold%20and%20orange-1.jpgHeads%20gold%20and%20orange-1.jpg My initial head is on its way back to me now. I will take some pics and post them. I think they would be interested in producing the full billet and anodized unit both insert and jacket. A lot will depend on how it works. RK Tec wants to get it just right so, I will be testing and going back and forth until it is just right. Between the KTM and Husky 150 models they would have a pretty large base to work from. These are pics of the heads for the ktm 250/300.
 
I dont usually sit when I hunt, I have some good buddies & we drive big pieces of property. Big deer are smart, they hunker down in the day time & come out when we cant see em so we like to kick em up & set some guys at the end of the drive to blast em. But thats what ive been doing all week. had to to take care of some stuff today but ill be back out again tomorrow for the last day!

I like the looks of those heads, the blue s3 one really grabs the eye.
 
wallybean said:
View attachment 74272View attachment 74272View attachment 74272 My initial head is on its way back to me now. I will take some pics and post them. I think they would be interested in producing the full billet and anodized unit both insert and jacket. A lot will depend on how it works. RK Tec wants to get it just right so, I will be testing and going back and forth until it is just right. Between the KTM and Husky 150 models they would have a pretty large base to work from. These are pics of the heads for the ktm 250/300.
Click to expand...

Walt! Those are sharp!

Keep us posted! Great work!
 
hakkalugi said:
I dont usually sit when I hunt, I have some good buddies & we drive big pieces of property. Big deer are smart, they hunker down in the day time & come out when we cant see em so we like to kick em up & set some guys at the end of the drive to blast em. But thats what ive been doing all week. had to to take care of some stuff today but ill be back out again tomorrow for the last day!

I like the looks of those heads, the blue s3 one really grabs the eye.
Click to expand...

I used to deer hunt quite a bit in Ohio and Pa when was young.

I don't do much any more, except once in blue moon, go pheasant hunting in South Dakota with guys from work.
 
I pulled mine apart and was just not impressed with the parts or design. Even though mine are "ok" right now I expect them to open up and warp with time. It also makes a difference how tight you screw it together. Either way I still think the best bet is to spend the money KTM wasn't willing to and get the V-Force.
 
wallybean said:
I pulled mine apart and was just not impressed with the parts or design. Even though mine are "ok" right now I expect them to open up and warp with time. It also makes a difference how tight you screw it together. Either way I still think the best bet is to spend the money KTM wasn't willing to and get the V-Force.
Click to expand...
V-Force reeds are a good product. I put them on my 2000 WR250 and then they were standard on my later Huskys and my Husaberg. My '16 KTM 200 XC-W has the Boyesen copy, but the '17 Husky and KTM's seem to have something really dodgy. If I get a TE150, first two mods.... V-Force reeds and a Domino throttle/cable kit from G2.
 
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